Pix of the 30-338 Lapua Imp Completed

[Brent]

Sorry 4k, must have missed your post.
My thoughts on the barrel block verses bedding he barrel in the channel are pretty basic, agree or disagree.

I believe that a barrel that touches the stock should be held tightly to it so the touching is at least consistant. For me, bedding a barrel channel in even a stiff stock seems counter productive to consistancy. The barrel block is clamped to the barrel and then into the stock, so any excess, or less pressure on the forend does not translate to more or less pressure on the barrel itself, and in my mind alter the barrel vibration any, it should remain consistant. This is only true of course if the barrel and action are both free from contacting the stock.

The barrel block has a huge bedding surface, a definite plus.

It removes any stress from the action as a result of the barrel hanging on it. I wonder how much of an issue the barrel thread joint really flexes or shifts with just the weight of the action, bases, rings and scope for weight on it now, not to mention it is all held on up very close to the joint so it has much less leverage on the thread joint than a long barrel does, especially that of a real long, large diameter barrel.

I believe the barrel block is the ultimate setup for accuracy and precision, just not practical in every rifle because of weight and forend width limitations.

 

[4ked Horn]

So let me get this straight. The barrel in front of the block AND the action behind the stock are free floating? What a cool idea. Why haven't I heard of this before?

Is there any formula or basic oppinion on size and length this block should be in relation to the bbl length and taper. Is there ANY stabilizing bedding compound under the tang area? Is a mag fed rifle free floated around the mag also? Does this block technique require special bottom metal?

 

[Brent]

4k,

Both action and barrel are floated. Standard fair for this type of setup really.

Recommendation as for size and length - Not sure about that, just did my research on who did what, how it worked, their thoughts on why and so on. In my case, a 7-8" block probably was all I needed. I thought 10" wouldn't hurt, it broke the lines up better on the rifle and looked better I thought.

As mentioned previously, the whole action is floated, including the tang, trigger, glued in single shot follower, barrel, bolt handle, trigger guard and everything.

I'm not sure how I'd approach doing a BDL, but I'd probably keep everything free floated still, then use a drop magazine so cartridges contacting the bolt were all that touched. This fitting would be time consuming, but possible.

One note though, the block offers way more bedding surface than the action does, so there is no need what so ever to use the tang for additional support, this would be bad Ju-Ju anyway.

Mine is a blind mag, with a single shot follower bedded in just below the rails. The steel trigger guard was bolted to the stock, not the action.

Anything with a 30-32" barrel that is overly large at the muzzle, straight tube etc, is what I found as begining to be a good canidate for a barrel block because of the addition weight alone. A few guys were using 30" 1.25" straight tubes on custom actions with larger bedding surfaces and doing fine, but most recommended mine with the 1.35" diameter 30" tube on the Remington would probably be better suited with the block.

 

[4ked Horn]

Hi brent.

Sorry I took so dang long to reply. I am VERY interestd in this concept but for some reason I forgot about this post. Er,duh.

It sounds like I wouldn't need to do this if I were building a rifle with a nesika cylindrical action and a remington 28"-30" varmint weight taper because of the large bedding area and the relatively light bbl? Or would I?

But it would be the coolest rifle on the block. (no pun intended)

 

[chris matthews]

You don't really need it for what you are doing. I have built several rifles with 32-34 inch barrels, approx. 1" at the muzzle and bedded in stocks by the "conventional"
method. One thing I did, however, was I put a 4" barrel pad in front of the lug.

 

[4ked Horn]

Just bedding under the chamber right?

 

[chris matthews]

Basically under the chamber but a little longer. I have used up to a 6" pad with no ill affects on accuracy.

 

[Bill D.]

Brent,
That block looks familiar, is it one of Jay's?

Bill D.

 

[Swamplord]

Hey Brent, Howdy from Wasilla, dang nice rifle, must be drilling dimes on the range??? I'd like to hear more on the ballistics of this bad boy!!!!

When you going to shoot it next???
Let me know, please!!!!
I'd like to see this gun, (maybe squeeze a few off??)

 

[Brent]

I don't think you need a Nesika action with a larger bedding surface for a barrel like that, or to bed ahead of the recoil lug even on the 700, you definitely don't need a bbl block.

I'd personally go 34-36" with that taper on a 700, no pad, which I don't care for or think helps accuracy. I'd go shorter if it was heavier bbl, or use a bbl block.

My Brother's 338/378 Rem 700 has a 32" barrel, his 500 Jeffery Ruger #1 has a 36", both have muzzle brakes in addition to that too. Mine at 30.5" 1.35 diameter straight tube shot fine without the block, even better now that it has the block and a recoil lug though.

Bill,
Jay sold me a chunk of aluminum with a 1.350 hole already in it, I just machined it with Jay's as a model, which I liked best, just slightly different. I used 5/16-18 cap screws to clamp the bbl, and into the stock, I forget what Jay used now.

Proman1,
I was gone all afternoon yesterday or we could have hooked up at Jim Creek to shoot for a bit last night. We'll hook up some time. I'd like to go to the 600 yard match on Summer Solstice on Fort Richardson, this load I've been using should work fine, just working on wind skills lately while getting the drops nailed down in various conditions.

With a BC of .665 for the 210 JLK and pushing MV at 3175 fps, I'm pleased with the accuracy, wind drift and retained energy. I'd like to put some milk jugs up in front of my backstop and catch some bullets at various ranges to see how they compare, maybe I'll get the water tank in use I planned to build last year.

It's a pleasant rifle to shoot. Not quite what I'd use free recoil style, but pretty close the more I shoot it.

Here's some 3 shot groups I fired late last night at 500-600-700-800 yards to verify drops some more.

Ones I shot the other day in a little better conditions were pretty fair also, Wayne and Blaine have seen pix of them and the others I've shot with it in the new stock so far. Just three shot groups but they're pretty fair as far as the vertical spread goes.

This link might work for a larger view if you can't read the wrighting on it.
http://www.hunt101.com/showphoto.php?photo=151467&size=big&password=&sort=1&thecat=

[ 05-08-2004: Message edited by: Brent Moffitt ]