Pillar bedding a X-Bolt

[Darryle]

I have a Browning X-Bolt 6.5 PRC and I purchased a X-Bolt Pro stock. I am scabbing together a rifle using the BA and the Pro stock. The stock was for heavy sporter barrel channel and this 6.5 is a standard sporter. I filled and fit the contour using an epoxy snytactic foam. I removed the factory bedding forward of the action to accomplish that. This added less than 6 grams to the original weight. Now that I have that completed, I removed the rest of the factory bedding and prepped the stock for epoxy bedding using Marine Tex.

Blatantly stole this pick from @David_h to show the rear action screw hole is a 1/3 cutaway for the magazine clearance.

I have some custom made small diameter pillars, my question is, do I machine the clearance prior to installation or cut them away afterwards?

My original plan was to bed the action, then install pillars front and rear.

Thanks Darryle

 

[Bucklowery]

I have only done a older browning rifle once I find that it is easy to dry fit everything and then epoxy. It could be done either way and advantages to both

Thanks

Buck

 

[Darryle]

Okay, I have read alot since I posted this and just barely scratched the surface of bedding and benefit of pillars here. I want the pillars to establish a solid foundation between the bottom metal and action and to prevent any crush on that rear action screw. When I originally removed the factory bedding on the sides and in front of the recoil lug and forward of the action, the front screw felt solid when torquing while the rear felt "mushy", also the rear screw extended into the action. The reason I want pillars.

I am now going to install the pillars first and then bed the action as best as possible on the X-Bolt. I am trying to wrap my mind around the best method to set the "height" of the pillars. The stock is proud everywhere around the action and bottom metal, so I am going to bed the bottom metal as well once I have the topside complete.

This may turn into a giant cluster, but I will at least know if it's possible on the X-Bolt. This isn't my first attempt at bedding or pillars, but it is my first X-Bolt pillar attempt.

 

[Bob Wright]

Have access to a mill? It might make the job easier.

 

[Darryle]

Yes, I was planning on installing the rear pillar and then using a mill to cut the section out.

 

[akdad]

Having seen some or your projects and your background it's going to come out nice!!!'

 

[Darryle]

Well, there's a hitch now.

Set this up to open both the front and rear action screw holes and noticed this when I started the the mill into the rear screw hole.

This explains the mushiness I was experiencing. I don't know what changed with the pro stocks from Browning since inception, but this has a cellular type foam core. I am going to clamp it in my vise after I inject the crack with epoxy and then figure out how to reinforce the area under the action. I have fiberglass, kevlar and carbon weave available. I will probably lay a couple of plies of carbon weave under the action wrapped up to the edges of the inlet.

If it doesn't hold firmly after the repair and the pillars are installed, then McMillan will get a call.

 

[Darryle]

After a phone call and a PM from a friend, I am considering repairing this and putting it on a 6.5 Creedmoor rifle and using the stock on the Creedmoor for the PRC.

Concerns by both of us that the PRC may be more stressful and create a safety issue.

I don't think the way I laid it out in my head would be unsafe. After staring at and measuring two different woven carbon cloths from West Systems, I believe it is Fiberglast brand, one is a 2 over twill and the other is s simple 90º weave. They have a 45º available, I just don't know what to do with 50 linear feet.

My goal was to fix the crack and install the pillars on both screws. I plan to use foil peel washers to set the action depth to have it lines on both the action and stock yup with the action to stock lines. The pillars are plenty long and ironically the action screws are 1/4" 28 pitch. I have the proper tools, and a few custom made tools to set the pillars snug against the action. Once they are set, I will apply epoxy to the pillars and stock and allow them to cure.

As far as bedding the base of the inlet, I pondered why it had to be epoxy. So, I am going to use carbon fiber and West Systems 205 epoxy, Right or wrong, it should be hella stout.

I am all ears to suggestions, including a brass or steel cross pin, really want to avoid that scenario.

Thanks for any advice, I really need it

 

[Bob Wright]

Similar to aerospace, this is an automotive repair for carbon fiber. Not an easy task.

Step By Step: Carbon Fiber Structural Repair -

Is carbon fiber structural repair really black magic? The answer, of course, is no. It’s true that carbon fiber structural components such as “tubs” are a relatively new technology for high-volume production street cars, but structures like tubs have been used in Formula 1 racing since the early...

www.tomorrowstechnician.com

 

[Bucklowery]

I used headless bolts to the action and tape it together. A little electrical tape around the barrel in front of action and to keep it centered. I did bed the bottom metal first to make sure I had it built up where I wanted it flush. The tape around the action instead of torquing it down allows for stress free bedding. I like the kinda projects but you know this already. Makes me want to start another gun

Thanks

Buck

 

[asd9055]

Well, there's a hitch now.

Set this up to open both the front and rear action screw holes and noticed this when I started the the mill into the rear screw hole.

This explains the mushiness I was experiencing. I don't know what changed with the pro stocks from Browning since inception, but this has a cellular type foam core. I am going to clamp it in my vise after I inject the crack with epoxy and then figure out how to reinforce the area under the action. I have fiberglass, kevlar and carbon weave available. I will probably lay a couple of plies of carbon weave under the action wrapped up to the edges of the inlet.

If it doesn't hold firmly after the repair and the pillars are installed, then McMillan will get a call.

View attachment 504809

@Darryle , I dont have any experience, but just wondering out loud, would installing a crossbolt there help with that crack?

 

[SSG Graybush]

I have a Browning X-Bolt 6.5 PRC and I purchased a X-Bolt Pro stock. I am scabbing together a rifle using the BA and the Pro stock. The stock was for heavy sporter barrel channel and this 6.5 is a standard sporter. I filled and fit the contour using an epoxy snytactic foam. I removed the factory bedding forward of the action to accomplish that. This added less than 6 grams to the original weight. Now that I have that completed, I removed the rest of the factory bedding and prepped the stock for epoxy bedding using Marine Tex.

Blatantly stole this pick from @David_h to show the rear action screw hole is a 1/3 cutaway for the magazine clearance.

View attachment 504604

I have some custom made small diameter pillars, my question is, do I machine the clearance prior to installation or cut them away afterwards?

My original plan was to bed the action, then install pillars front and rear.

Thanks Darryle

I've only done 700's and clones. But I would put in pillars and then bed over the top.

 

[Darryle]

@Darryle , I dont have any experience, but just wondering out loud, would installing a crossbolt there help with that crack?

Yes, I have ringed nails from my time building boats, both wood and fiberglass, kevlar, carbon over wood. I have some plenty long enough.

I don't think I need them if I use the carbon fiber saddle reinforcement I mentioned earlier. I found some of the weave I had unwoven to give me straight 1/8" wide by .020" strands that could be used to further reinforce the area.

The original saddle from the factory appears to only be 2 plies of carbon. So, 3 or 4 layers and pillars should make this indestructible.

 

[Darryle]

Ok, time for a quick update. I have fixed the crack, used West Systems 206 to fill the crack. I used a cheap Stanley heat gun and my thermal temp scanner to slowly heat up the stock to 175º, then I used a bamboo skewer to drip the epoxy into the crack. I chose to let the crack remain at it's static state, meaning I did not put any pressure to close the crack. My reasoning was, when I applied pressure to close the crack, the action was being pinched. So my thinking was, this stock was under stress/tension from the get go. Once it had 24hrs of cure time, I cleaned it up and prepped it for the carbon fiber cloth. I waxed up the action after removing anything that wasn't permanently attached and dove in head first. I mixed up some WS 206 and wet out the first ply of carbon fiber on a piece of parchment paper and laid it in the stock, dropped the bare action in and wrapped it with zip ties to pull it tight down into the stock. 24hrs later I popped it right out. I could see the low pressure spots easily. I prepped the action again with a couple more coats of Meguiar's allowing them to cure out while I sanded the excess epoxy and loose carbon fiber filaments, then I sanded the saddle for the second ply of carbon fiber. I mixed up another 50 grams of WS 206 and wet out the second ply of carbon fiber and laid it in the stock. In with the action and a couple more zip ties to lock it in place. Another 24hrs and another clean up.

This is the current status, that is 2 plies of carbon fiber using the action as the "mold". The action still sits low in the stock for my liking. Everything is rough sanded because I am thinking about 2 more plies of carbon fiber in the bottom to bring it up to mate flush with the stock profile. I will probably unweave the cloth and use the individual "filament", according to Fiberglast, there are 3000 individual fibers in each layer of the weave, I'll take their word for it. I will layer the straight plies in side by side and wrap the ends down and around the saddle into the magazine well and trigger opening. Let that cure and then come back with another ply of the weave to tie everything together. Honestly, this is a royal pain in the ***, but it is a fun project. Would be cheaper to call up McMillan and be done with it.

Once I get the back saddle done, I am going to build up the front. I have been using blue painters tape to mimic the thickness of the carbon in the front to try to keep the action square in the stock, honestly probably doesn't make a difference until I get ready to bed it.

More pictures as I progress on the repair.