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Needed Case Prep Tools

Bigeclipse

Well-Known Member
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Aug 10, 2012
Messages
1,972
For case prep I currently only clean (tumble/ultrasonic), resize, trim and then debur the neck. I do not do anything to the primer pockets or flasholes nor do I do anything for runout. I am trying to step up my game on case prep so I am trying to buy the necessary tools for this. I am not sure where to start and which tools to buy first. Could someone please list which tools to buy first and maybe which brands? Thanks.
 

I will check it out. I have read lots of threads and a couple books already and the tools people say one needs makes your head spin. I was looking at the more critical tools to buy first and then tools I can add later along the way as I get deeper into precision loading. I am working on saving for a more precise scale and starting to buy better brass...etc. I do not want to feel overwhelmed nor did I want to buy everything needed for bench class target shooting. Maybe one day I will get there but for now I am loading for minute of deer out to 500.
 
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I was hoping someone could maybe give me a list of the tools in the order I should buy them for case prep. Currently I already own a tumbler, ultrasonic cleaner, case mouth deburrer and chamfer tool, case trimming tool, and primer pocket cleaning tools.

I was looking into possibly buying a lyman flash hole deburring tool, primer pocket uniforming tool (not sure which brand), and tools needed for bullet run out. I honestly have no idea on the bullet runout tools needed and how they are used, I believe you need a concentricity gauge to even be able to check runout and those look expensive. still need to read up on that. I am still in the process of buying a new scale, and some ammo travel boxes along with some more 3006 bullet heads and cases so as you can see I am spending a good deal money right now haha so this is why I am asking if someone can put a list together of what I wrote above with an order I should buy them. Most critical being first (most impact on accuracy). Thanks!
 
I have the Lyman and K&M flash hole deburrer (I don't use the Lyman, K&M is much nicer) and primer pocket reamer from K&M. I like both of these. As far as the concentricity tool, I have the Sinclair one and I know there are better, but this works well enough for me.

Put the case in and set the 2 sets of rollers that the case rides in so the dial indicator rides on the middle of the case neck for unloaded brass and just in front of the case neck on the bullet on loaded rounds.

I would get the case prep items you NEED first and get out and shoot. This will give you some time to build up the gun fund again. The runout gauge is not needed at first.

The ammo travel boxes are cheap and most I've seen use the mtm ones (I think that's the brand) and obviously you NEED at least one of those.

You'll appreciate at least one case tray, again cheap. Can drill some holes in a chunk of wood too.

You'll need a bullet camparator. This is a NEED TO HAVE ITEM. This measures from closer to the ogive of the bullet and gives you increased consistency in your readings. I use the Hornady comparators with the base that clamps onto the caliper. Measuring from the base of the case to the tip of the bullet will cause you much frustration. It did me at least.

You'll need a pair of calipers. This is a NEED TO HAVE ITEM. You will use these all the time so I would not buy the cheapest, but don't need the most expensive either.

A powder funnel is a NEED TO HAVE ITEM.

I have a nylon brush that I use to clean the inside of the case mouths. I just run it in and out a few times. Probably not needed, but gives me a little assurance that there isn't something on the inside of the neck I can't see.

I use Imperial dry lube (kinda like graphite) with the applicator media that I dip the case necks in before loading. Helps to not mar the bullet on the way in and possibly more consistent seating depth and neck tension I think, it was recommended by multiple shooters so I do it.

As far as scale I use the RCBS chargemaster which has a scale built in.

You might already have some of these things??? Just thought I'd try and answer your question a little better.

I'll keep thinking..........
 
I have the Lyman and K&M flash hole deburrer (I don't use the Lyman, K&M is much nicer) and primer pocket reamer from K&M. I like both of these. As far as the concentricity tool, I have the Sinclair one and I know there are better, but this works well enough for me.

Put the case in and set the 2 sets of rollers that the case rides in so the dial indicator rides on the middle of the case neck for unloaded brass and just in front of the case neck on the bullet on loaded rounds.

I would get the case prep items you NEED first and get out and shoot. This will give you some time to build up the gun fund again. The runout gauge is not needed at first.

The ammo travel boxes are cheap and most I've seen use the mtm ones (I think that's the brand) and obviously you NEED at least one of those.


As far as scale I use the RCBS chargemaster which has a scale built in.

You might already have some of these things??? Just thought I'd try and answer your question a little better.

I'll keep thinking..........

thanks for the info. I actually have everything you mentioned except the case prep tools I have mentioned and ammo boxes (I use factory cardboard ammo boxes at the moment). I already use a comparator and such for bullet seating depths and shoulder bumping. I am now trying to step up my game a bit more for accuracy but yes, I do not have unlimited finances so I am trying to just buy the tools here and there as I go along. The next step was for case prep items. I will definitely look into the K&M tools. As far as bullet runout/concentricity tools I wll put those on hold for a while. Thanks again for your input on this. I currently use a RCBS 5-10 scale which works fine but my wife is buying me a GemPro250 for Christmas which I am excited about.
 
I guess my 15 minute post really wasn't that helpful then. haha.

I'm pretty new to reloading, but am pretty anal about things and my loaded rounds are under 0.0025" of runout so I guess I think I'm doing ok.

If you have any questions feel free to pm me if you want.
 
Depending on what brass you are using, neck turning might not be a bad idea.

I will be moving to Nosler and Lapua brass for my loads. I have heard of neck turning but will need to read up on it more as I am not sure exactly what it is or what it involves. Thanks again!
 
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