Need some help with an Uh-Oh.......

[Reloader]

I guess there's a first time for everything. I glued an HS stock to one of my Senderos....

I usually use carnuba wax applied with a small craft brush as well as the usuals: modeling clay, masking tape etc. Well, I read on a few forums where guys were having good luck with pam cooking spray and I figured I'd give it a shot as it would be alittle easier than the wax. Big mistake! Lets just say a good coat of pam will not keep marine tex from sticking to steel. I tried tapping with a rubber mallet as that's what's always worked, but it will not budge. I even hit it with a few hard strikes and nodda. I gave up before doing any damage.

I was able to remove the clay, tape, and assemble the gun fine. Since it functioned fine and all screws went in easily, I went ahead and mounted the scope. It shoots great, so I could just leave it as is and hunt with a "glue-in" but I would like to eventually remove the stock.

Looking for some pointers you've had success with. Thought about dropping it in the deep freeze for a while and tapping it with the rubber mallet.....

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Reloader

 

[edge]

Stick it in the freezer overnight and give it a good whack in the morning.

If that does not do it I would suspect a mechanical lock somewhere.

edge.

 

[Buffalobob]

Get some screws longer than your action screws and put them in. Take the bolt out. Make sure the screws are fully engaged. Get a small hammer, a medium hammer and a really large hammer, and two asprin. Tap on the screws with the small hammer. If it doesn't come loose use the medium hammer and tap a little harder. If you tap too hard and ruin the threads then take the large hammer and smack yourself upside the head for being a dummy. Then use the two asprin. Go to the front of your garage and take down the sign that says "Gunsmith At Work" and throw it in the trash.

 

[NesikaChad]

I strongly advise you not to use guard screws and hammers.

The one time I got a sticky one, here's what I did to get it out.

You can first try the freezer method and hope for the best. If that doesn't work, this will get it out without destroying the stock or the action:

If you have a lathe, turn a piece of round stock to roughly the same OD as your bolt.

It does not need to be precise. Just so it fits in the action.

Once you do this, take a torch to it and get it smoking hot. You want to see tempering colors.

Then slide it up the action and let it sit.

The heat will transfer through the action and into the bedding. It'll cook and break down the adhesion and you'll be able to get the action back out with moderate pressure. Understand your bedding job will have to be redone if you go this route.

This, by the way, is exactly how I remove glued in actions on bench rest rifles. This technique works for both wood and synthetic stocks.

I've done it on $1,200.00 terry leonard redwood/carbon stocks with no ill effects.

Good luck.

~NC

 

[James Jones]

I've seen chads method used a couple times for BR guns that had been glued into the stock and it worked well with no ill effect.

I have glued an encore forend to the barrel twice while bedding between the screws , I was able to make a small plastic wedge and tap it into the front of the forend between the barrel and stock causing some pressure then i stuck it in the freezer for a few hrs when I took it out it was still stuck , a little tapping on the barrel with a hard rubber mallet along with the bit of pressure from the wedge it popped loose , it did make a tiny dent in the front of the forend where the wedge was but not noticable unless you looked for it.

i had a buddy that i walked though these stepps when he glued his Howa to the stock and he used a long screw driver as a wedge and hammered it in for more pressure , it scratched the bottom of his barrel and put a big dent in the tip of the forend but it did break loose in the freezer.

when i first started playing with bedding i had heard horror stories about this so i made a set of screws out of 3/8 4140 round stock 4" long threaded it to fit the action stock screws with only .125 thread endgagement so that the bolt would screw down and seat the wide shoulder of the bolt on the action and not mess up the screws when i tapped it with a hammer, it seemed like a good idea but luckly I never had to use it.

 

[J E Custom]

Reloader

If the barrel is floated and the stock has a front sling swivel try
this.

slip a brass or stainless shim under the barrel above the sling swivel,
remove the stud and use a brass screw/bolt long enough to engage
the barrel and apply a little pressure (NOT TO MUCH) then remove
the bedding screws and place in the freezer over night.

Remove from freezer the next day ( Some times it will break lose while
cooling down because of the preload of the sling swivel screw) but if
not tighten a little more and using a rubber mallet (Tape the area of the
barrel to be struck) hold the stock and strike the barrel.

This should remove the barrel from the stock, "IF NOT" try some of the other
methods mentioned.

Good luck
J E CUSTOM

 

[Boss Hoss]

Just remove the bases---place the iron on top of the action and heat for about 30 minutes --it will come off.

 

[specweldtom]

Reloader, I had heard about the freezer method, but thank goodness, haven't had to test it out. If it's not mechanically locked, it should pop out. If it is mechanically locked, I would use NesikaChad's method. It should weaken the bedding compound enough that it won't matter. Good info. I would never have thought of it.

Good thread, good replies, Tom

 

[Reloader]

Thanks....

Thanks for the great replies fellas. I'll try the freezer and pressure method 1st and then to the heat shall that not work.

Have a Good One and Thanks again,

Reloader