• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

neck sizing?

Bowhunter84

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2013
Messages
49
Location
Alabaster,AL
I'm new to reloading so please excuse me if this is a dumb question. I've been full length resizing my brass for my creedmoor. i was told that i should start just neck sizing my fired brass. should i or should i just keep FL resizing it? i read where my brass will last longer if i just neck size it. i was also told that i wouldn't need any lube and i wouldn't have to trim the brass if i neck size only. is this true? is the rcbs neck sizing die a good one to get ?


thanks in advance for the help guys!
 
I full length size (correctly ) for every cartridge that I own. By correctly, I mean that I adjust the FL die just so the case chambers easily as opposed to all the way down touching the shell holder as stated in many die instructions.
I own many neck size dies but the only ones I use is the Lee Collet neck sizer, and by the way, is the only one that doesn't need lube.
I'm on 8 reloads on a few batches of brass that has been FL correctly sized every time. So I don't buy the thing about brass lasting longer by neck sizing.
Just neck sizing causes more problems than its worth.

A lot of people try to be as lazy as possible.
 
I agree with bountyhunter. Always FL resize to bump the shoulder .002-.003 on bolt guns and .005-.008 on semi autos. For every example you see of guys showing just how great neck sizing is I can show you one that only FL resize. If done properly FL size brass will last 5-10 firings easy. After a few loadings of neck sizing you will have to do a FL size anyway otherwise the cartridges will be too tight to fit in the chamber.
 
gun)
I'm new to reloading so please excuse me if this is a dumb question. I've been full length resizing my brass for my creedmoor. i was told that i should start just neck sizing my fired brass. should i or should i just keep FL resizing it? i read where my brass will last longer if i just neck size it. i was also told that i wouldn't need any lube and i wouldn't have to trim the brass if i neck size only. is this true? is the rcbs neck sizing die a good one to get ?


thanks in advance for the help guys!
I neck size all my rifles ,which are bolt rifles. You can neck size only if the case is being used in the same rifle. Example: you have two 308 win rifles you may not be able use the brass in the other rifle. You can set your full length die to neck size by adjust the lock nut. Take a magic marker and color the neck and you can see how much sizing you are doing on the neck. Some of my rifles are Ackley Improves so neck sizing does not change the contour of the shoulder and outside diameter of the case. On semi-auto rifle you may not be able to neck size , the case may not feed thru the action.
 
Could someone explain the correct way to set up a FL die so you are just moving the shoulder back the .002-.003 distance. I was fairly confident for years in my resizing practice of marking the neck with mica powder or marker and lowering the die in the press until I saw the neck had been almost completely sized down to the shoulder. If it then chambered I felt I was good to go. Now I'm not sure and occasionally a few rounds would take more effort to close bolt. Recently picked up a Hornady head space gauge and getting ready to do some reloading with a better understanding of what I am doing. Reload a couple of .338 Win Mags, a .300 Win, 7mm Rem mag, 300 RUM, and a couple 22-250.
 
De-prime a few fires cases.
Measure headspace with the gauge.
Adjust your die till it bumps the case shoulder .002".
Make sure they chamber easily.
Record the measurement for future reference.
 
Could someone explain the correct way to set up a FL die so you are just moving the shoulder back the .002-.003 distance. I was fairly confident for years in my resizing practice of marking the neck with mica powder or marker and lowering the die in the press until I saw the neck had been almost completely sized down to the shoulder. If it then chambered I felt I was good to go. Now I'm not sure and occasionally a few rounds would take more effort to close bolt. Recently picked up a Hornady head space gauge and getting ready to do some reloading with a better understanding of what I am doing. Reload a couple of .338 Win Mags, a .300 Win, 7mm Rem mag, 300 RUM, and a couple 22-250.

Screw die down against shell holder, back off 1/64th of a turn. Size a case. Put a 40S&W to the shoulder and compare the shoulder bump to an unsized fired case. Screw the die deeper in small increments and size again until you achieve the desired amount of shoulder bump.

Or just get a Redding competition shell holder set. Stupid easy.
 
Screw die down against shell holder, back off 1/64th of a turn. Size a case. Put a 40S&W to the shoulder and compare the shoulder bump to an unsized fired case. Screw the die deeper in small increments and size again until you achieve the desired amount of shoulder bump.

Or just get a Redding competition shell holder set. Stupid easy.


If I understand you correctly you are backing the die off 1/64 of 1/14. The 14 being the number of threads in a normal die. That comes out at about .001".

Help me out here, please.
 
I don't think you understand my post. It was a request for some elaboration.

What I do.

I load for AR's and bolt guns. my ar's I want a 0.003 shoulder bump and on my bolt guns when I do full length resize I want a 0.0015 to 0.002 shoulder bump.

What I do is take a hornady headspace gauge and measure the headspace of my fired brass. Basically you are measuring from the case base to some point on the shoulder. Sometimes I use my bullet comparators. Just as long as you are measuring to some point on the shoulder. write it down. I can't remember ****.

Hornady Manufacturing Company :: Reloading :: Metallic Reloading :: Tools & Gauges :: Lock-N-Load Gauges-Formerly Stoney Point :: Headspace Gauges :: Headspace Gauge Kits

next you screw your sizing die into the press. Now screw it all the way down to the shellholder and back it off a quarter of a turn. Now this is backed off quite a bit more than you need to but it is much better to work up slowly than to oversize. More times you do it the better your will get at judging how much to back off. Then you size the case and measure the shoulder. Screw the die down a little more and try it again. Trust me when you get close just a little turn makes a huge difference. Once you find the sweet spot and size several with the correct bump lock that lock ring down and you will never have to do this again.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 9 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top