When folks back a bottleneck full length sizing die up a ways so it doesn't contact the shoulder, the shoulder typically gets moved forward a few thousandths. In the reloading industry, this is called partial neck sizing. It's usually enough to cause the bolt to bind when that case is chambered 'cause the case headspace is now a bit longer than chamber headspace.
A true FL sizing die doesn't make a good neck die IMO. This, because there is nothing good in FL sizing of necks, nor partial sizing of lower case bodies.
I'm glad bullet bumper invented Redding body dies, and Wilson neck dies!
Robinhood493, you can have both in a custom die made by JLC Precision -and cheap. Send him a few fireformed cases & he'll set you up with a bushing bump die for YOUR chamber.
These are often referred to as 'Full-Length Bushing Dies', but that isn't what they are at all.
Such a die does exist but includes the shoulder in it's bushing, which would degrade it from that of a standard FL die..
Google JLC Precision die
There were several folks using body dies before 1969. These were true body dies as they only sized the case body; nothing touched the shoulder nor neck. They were used on belted cases used in long range prone matches such as Fred Huntington's .30-.338 Win. Mag. wildcat he came out with in 1958. (Therefore, I think Redding as well as RCBS, Lyman, C&H and other die makers were aware body dies before 1969. I used one myself for the first time in 1968 on .264 Win. Mag. cases.) A regular full length sizing die had its top cut off at the shoulder then squared off. Its bottom cut off just above the belt clearance section where the body diameter there was about .5120" or .001" smaller than new case diameter immediately in front of the belt.Hang on ! read the date Redding did not make any " body dies " in 1969 No commercial company did at that time . I came up with the idea way before Redding started to make body dies even though they made them in secret for many years.
I have no problem using a FL die to partial neck size. Just set the die to full length size. Go to Sinclair's and buy a Skip Otto die shim set. Put a shim under the die while it is still set to full size, and it will then not touch the shoulder. Remove the shim when you want to FL the brass.
PS - Throw away that sizing button.
Most folks remove the sizing button 'cause they know it too often bends case necks as it comes back up through the sized down case neck. But that means the fired case neck will be sized down several thousandths too much.I've been reading alot of people taking the sizing button off. Can someone explain the reasoning behind this?
If you lube your necks that will be basically non-existant. I use a bit of case lube brushed into my necks on standard fl dies in all my rifles. I've been doing it for years as I got ****ed dang near standing on the handle a few times with '06 brass. Started lubing necks and the problems went away. The necks grew a bit less too. If you don't lube your necks they can be bent or pulled harder on one side, but I've had good results lubed.When you pull the case neck back over the expander ball it pulls on the neck and can cause concentricity issues, with the expander ball removed there's no chance of that happening.