my stock is being crushed

[Sasquatch]

I took the new 300 RUM out and test fired it the other day. 5 shots to get zeroed and 25 fun shots. I have a wooden stock on it and the recoil is already putting impressions in the stock, particularly in the rear tang area. Even though the rifle is shooting 3/4 MOA with factory loads and I haven't worked up a load, I am sure I will be doing a bedding job to save the stock and have some questions on it, after I list the supplies I have.

I have more than enough acraglass gel left to do a 2 point bedding, maybe even enough for a full length job and an adjustable pillar set from brownells. I also have about half a pound in 6061 alluminum filings that I saved from work.

Now for the questions. Will the pillar bedding help prevent the recoil from shoving the rest of the bedding down into the wooden stock? Should I use the aluminum to strengthen the epoxy, and if so what do you recommend for ratio? I have read to use anything from 3 parts epoxy to one part aluminum or steel up to a one to one ratio.

The bedding job I just did on the .30-06 helped quite a bit (back down to 1/2 moa @ 100) and I appreciate all the information you guys gave me on it. I will keep shooting it until I'm not happy with it's performance then the action will turn into my first true project rifle.

 

[Fiftydriver]

Sasquatch,

Your problem is the wood.

When I have a customer bring in a wood stock for use on a heavy recoiling rifle I do recommend pillar bedding but this will not stop the set back in the stock.

Pillar bedding will allow constant consistant torquing of your action screws which will stay that way over time. Without the pillars the wood will compress and result in inconsistant torque values.

So yes pillar bed the rifle but not to solve the set back problem.

To solve that we need to replace the compressible wood with something stiffer like the bedding compound.

I generally mill out most of the wood behind the recoil lug and fill this area with the bedding compound. Basically making a block of epoxy with a shell of wood around it!

This will stop your compression. I would go 1 to 1 on the aluminum filings. Make sure these are clean dry filings, if there is any cutting oil on these you will ruin the strength of the bedding compound.

Also make sure your screws are floated in the pillars.

As your stock is now, if you continue to shoot it as is, I suspect you will have a cracked stock soon.

Good Shooting!!

Kirby Allen(50)

 

[Sasquatch]

thanks kirby. I will be milling out the stock and rebedding it this weekend.

 

[DaddyRabbit]

I tend to think his problem is the caliber. This beast of a gun kills at both ends. If they're not broken/MB then you certainly can't shoot paper w/emm. What does a man shoot that's alive that needs this much gun in the USA? God Bless you man.

 

[Sasquatch]

I got this much gun so I can deliver a big punch on anything I want to at the longer ranges. This gun will be used for antelope and deer at 500+ yards, elk and if I ever draw out moose and big horn at whatever distance I decide to limit myself to. I realise that the big magnums aren't for everyone, but I fell in love with this round when I shot my friends and feel it is a good one for anything I decide to hunt in the future. Indepence day weekend, this rifle will be used on a prairie dog and predator hunt. I'll use the explosive a-max on the p-dogs and jack rabbits, and will have some FMJ's loaded up for the coyote that is unfortunate enough to cross my path.

Who needs this much gun to hunt in north america, well I do for peace of mind and POWER. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif The punch I recieve is livable, and a good reminder to make every shot count. I tend to remember things better if they are beat into me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[HoytemanPA]

If you do have any further problems with it....

Steelbed works very well. Have also used powdered stainless from Brownells mixed with Acraglass gel. Wish I would have taken a picture of my Accumark with it's aluminum bedding block. Looked like a neglected cold chisel head. Bed the lug in as tight as you dare. Two layers of electrical tape front and bottom of lug is all I ever do and then bed the entire action.

 

[Eaglet]

HoytemanPA,
The problem I encounter is in the tape. Some how I always manage to get bedding stuff between the tape and the metal or the tape getting stuck to the rest of the bedding in spite of the usage of releasing agent. What kind of tape do you use? I have used electrical tape!

 

[Jon A]

I've had good luck with the Brownells bedding/masking tape. It's basically just a good quality electrical tape that's .005 thick. In the hardware store I can never pick out the "good" tape from the lousy so I don't know what I'm getting until I get home and use the stuff. I guess I need to pay more attention to brand names/types.

Also, on things like the recoil lug, I put the tape on before release agent. The release agent keeps the tape from sticking very well.

Here's a pic of my latest bedding project:

On the top, compared with the factory stock. That's my 300 RUM A-Bolt. I was tired of stock crushing and the front action screw coming loose all the time on my old stock and don't want to deal with it on the new one....

BTW, I put one single layer of that .005" tape on the very front of the recoil lug. That's it, the rest of the lug is tight.

I used Brownells Steelbed and I'm pretty happy with it so far.

 

[Centre Punch]

Jon A,
I see that you have machined a flat on your front bedding pillar, as it would clearly foul the recoil lug.
I have never seen this before and i pressume its relative to the pillar diametre.
I have read many articles and seen many bedding jods but this has never been mentioned or pointed out to me,i am glad i have seen it, as it is another bedding problem to look out for when i get around to doing my own rifles.

Ian.

"I mean't to shoot the pike but the duck got in the way"

 

[Jon A]

Yeah, the A-Bolts have the front action screw really close to the lug. When a 5/8" hole is drilled for the pillar, it cuts into the lug recess. While I didn't need to take that much off, I felt I wanted a nice thick layer of bedding between the two instead of having the pillar nearly touch the lug with jus a skim of bedding between. I left the bottom of that pillar round though.

I'm not sure if there are any other rifles where you'd have this problem, but that seemed like the way to do it for an A-Bolt. I've never seen pictures of a pillar bedded A-Bolt so I'm just making it up as I go.

 

[Eaglet]

Jon A,
Great pictures, nice work!
I appreciate the info. I have glassbedded 8 rifles, 3 of them with full length action glass bedding and one with whole stock lenth due to cosmetic reasons. I will be ordering some tape from Brownells and I will also try the Brownells Steelbed, specially with my 300 RUM it would have to be a better option than Accraglass Gel wich is what I have been using.
Thanks again and good shooting!

 

[1doug]

Jon
who makes the stock, and do they have a website?

thanks d-a

 

[HoytemanPA]

Eaglet,
First I use Gun Scrubber and clean all metal parts and then on the lug I use 3M Scotch Super 88 Electrical tape. I don't stretch it too tight but rather leave it relaxed and rub it down onto the metal with an old rounded edged flat screwdriver. Then trim the edges with an Exacto using a pulling action into the metal (like scissors). For sealing the action mag well and trigger opening holes and protection of exposed surfaces of the stock I use clear labeling tape. With this you can see if it is sealed down tight or not through the tape. Fill other areas with modeling clay and apply Acraglass release agent to all exposed areas.

 

[Jon A]

d-a, It's a McMillan Browning Classic: http://www.mcmfamily.com/mcmillan/hunting/browning.asp

It has the molded in jellcoat finish--50% Black, 35% Dark Gray and 15% White "Swirly."

A couple pics:

So far I love it--and I haven't even shot it yet!