My first LR rifle

El Matavenados

Active Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
38
Well, the site keeps encouraging me to post something, so I'll post up some more details of a build I'm working on. I listed some specs in my introductory post, here. <--That's a link.

The build changed, however, and the specs now look more like this:

Action: Howa 1500, long action.
Barrel: Bartlein #3 contour, 1:8 twist, chambered in 260 Remington.
Muzzle brake: Defensive Edge.
Stock: Currently the original Bell & Carlson, but it has some flex in it that I don't like, so I have a Boyd's laminate on the way.
Glass: Vortex Viper HS-T 4-16x44
Scope base: Nightforce 20 MOA rail
Scope level: Vortex
Scope rings: Vortex tactical
Bottom metal: Found a Weatherby drop-in polymer kit with 3-rd mag.
Bipod: GG&G Extreme Duty Standard.
Paint: KG Gunkote bake-on.
Bedding: JB Weld













I did workup loads from 37 to 42.5 grains of H4350. There was a significant accuracy node between 37.5 and 38.5 grains. All test loads were jammed into the lands. Pressure signs developed at 42 and 42.5 grains (ejector swipes). An interesting note: these were loaded with CCI Benchrest 2 large rifle primers, and they were cratering inconsistently and even severely at the lowest pressures. That bothered me, but there were no other pressure signs until I reached the highest powder charges. The best group of 3 rounds measured .382 from center to center (obtained by measuring the group, then subtracting the bullet diameter):



I think I can improve on this, and will be doing more load development to see if I can get it dialed in better.

A few people have asked me about the bipod. It's a GG&G Standard HDX. It's rock-solid, but they have an even stouter version if you happen to have an M240 laying around. The original stock didn't have swivel studs, and though it would be easy to add them, I decided on a quick-release picatinny style mount. I bought a light, short rail section made by Magpul, shortened it even further on my mill, milled a flat spot in the forearm of the stock, drilled some holes, and screwed it in place. My stock has hollows in it to make it ligher, and this made it very simple to use the nuts that came with the rail. I did have to pick up a couple longer screws from Napa though. I think that cost me a quarter. Anyway, I REALLY like the quick release. The bipod was pricey, but I think it will be a solid, dependable unit for a long time. Harris doesn't have one that mounts directly to a picatinny rail. You can purchase adapters for $40, but that adds weight. I would think that with the popularity of the AR platform they would try to capture some of that market, but apparently not.
 

Prieto9000

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Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
431
I believe your rings are mounted incorrectly. The nuts should be on the other side of the rifle.
 

Mateo

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Feb 3, 2014
Messages
221
I believe your rings are mounted incorrectly. The nuts should be on the other side of the rifle.
That's true, normally they are put on the side opposite the ejection port so there is less chance of brass hitting any protrusions. And also your sleeve will be covering them when carrying the rifle by your hip with one hand and there is a minuscule chance that could get caught. It doesn't really matter in the real world for most shooters. If it works, shoot it.
 

El Matavenados

Active Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
38
That's true, normally they are put on the side opposite the ejection port so there is less chance of brass hitting any protrusions. And also your sleeve will be covering them when carrying the rifle by your hip with one hand and there is a minuscule chance that could get caught. It doesn't really matter in the real world for most shooters. If it works, shoot it.
Because of how much the nuts protrude, and having considered the factors that you both mentioned, I intentionally chose to put them on as pictured. The reason is that if I carry it on the right, and the rings are mounted as they are, I won't have the bolt or rings digging into my side. If mounted opposite, I would have something jabbing me no matter which side I carry on.

And yes, it works, so I think it will be fine. I can always change it later if necessary.
 

Lefty7mmstw

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Joined
May 13, 2012
Messages
4,714
Location
Dakota del norte
I believe your rings are mounted incorrectly. The nuts should be on the other side of the rifle.

I could say something.....




to the O.P. ... nice build.....
you will enjoy the Boyds stock.... We've had a few of them here... They are made in Mitchell so they are an area manufacturer to me. I just ordered/received a left land prairie hunter for my build in progress.... an 8" twist Shilen barreled 7mm stw on a m700 action....
 

El Matavenados

Active Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
38
to the O.P. ... nice build.....
you will enjoy the Boyds stock.... We've had a few of them here... They are made in Mitchell so they are an area manufacturer to me. I just ordered/received a left land prairie hunter for my build in progress.... an 8" twist Shilen barreled 7mm stw on a m700 action....
Thanks! I just finished pillar bedding the new Boyd's stock. Relieving the barrel channel went well, using a dowel and various sockets wrapped in coarse sandpaper. I made the pillars out of an aluminum arrow shaft I had laying around. I did the bedding with Devcon steel putty this time around, and I like the result. I bedded the bottom "metal" with JB Weld, just because it's easier to mix small quantities. I gave the barrel a generous float, so when I thump the forearm, it doesn't make contact with the barrel as it did previously.
 

mountainman56

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Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
754
Location
West Texas
Nice looking and well thought out rifle. Looks like it shoots too! gun) Need to see some pictures in the new stock.:)
 

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