First LR rifle

[thespiceguy07]

I've been an avid hunter and shooter for over 25 years and I'm finally going to bite the bullet and go for a full custom, 1000 yard, long range rifle. I've got quite a few factory rigs that shoot "pretty good" (MOA and a little better), but I'm chasing the holy grail with things that just won't ever get me there. I'm looking for some opinions on a good set up to start with. I'll list my wants/needs and anxiously see what you guys suggest. I've been looking at 300 WM, 7 WSM, 7 Mag to name a few. I'm definitely open to others, but I really don't want to get into making brass, necking up/necking down...

I want this rig to be North American capable, up to elk most likely. Moose may eventually be on the ticket, but I don't see it happening anytime soon. That'll be a good excuse to get another rifle later on. Can't go the prom in an old dress.

I want something that has what I'd call, a huge shootability factor inherently built it.

With that I'm saying -

Easy to load for

Relatively tame to shoot. My carry gun is a 9mm that I chose for 2 reasons, low recoil and cheap to shoot. The more I shoot the better I am and those two factors, in my opinion, are the two largest limiting factors to most people, at least me for sure. I don't mind spending money on the vehicle, I just don't want to have to fill it up with super unleaded on every fill up, hence 9 over .40 or .45. Anyway, not a carry gun forum I know...

Good bullet selection with high BC/heavy for caliber bullet choices

Something that doesn't require a 30" tube to get good velocity or have to be pushed at some crazy speed... I'm not looking for a barn (barrel) burner.

Let me know what y'all think.

 

[toddc]

I've been an avid hunter and shooter for over 25 years and I'm finally going to bite the bullet and go for a full custom, 1000 yard, long range rifle. I've got quite a few factory rigs that shoot "pretty good" (MOA and a little better), but I'm chasing the holy grail with things that just won't ever get me there. I'm looking for some opinions on a good set up to start with. I'll list my wants/needs and anxiously see what you guys suggest. I've been looking at 300 WM, 7 WSM, 7 Mag to name a few. I'm definitely open to others, but I really don't want to get into making brass, necking up/necking down...

I want this rig to be North American capable, up to elk most likely. Moose may eventually be on the ticket, but I don't see it happening anytime soon. That'll be a good excuse to get another rifle later on. Can't go the prom in an old dress.

I want something that has what I'd call, a huge shootability factor inherently built it.

With that I'm saying -

Easy to load for

Relatively tame to shoot. My carry gun is a 9mm that I chose for 2 reasons, low recoil and cheap to shoot. The more I shoot the better I am and those two factors, in my opinion, are the two largest limiting factors to most people, at least me for sure. I don't mind spending money on the vehicle, I just don't want to have to fill it up with super unleaded on every fill up, hence 9 over .40 or .45. Anyway, not a carry gun forum I know...

Good bullet selection with high BC/heavy for caliber bullet choices

Something that doesn't require a 30" tube to get good velocity or have to be pushed at some crazy speed... I'm not looking for a barn (barrel) burner.

Let me know what y'all think.

Tough one boss.
Lots of mutually exclusive wants on here.
1. Tame to shoot-1000 yd elk meds arent usually tame, Im not a big beleiver in short 7s and 300 for elk at 1k. Yep itll kill em but youre running outa energy.
2.cheap to shoot-with elk on the table no bullet will be CHEAP per se.
3. high bc/sd-High weight for caliber usually takes a lotta powder, ie not tame
4. barrel life+ short tube-speeds needed for high bc bullets@ 1k means a buncha powder
5 elk-need a rifle with the other 5 points
6 good to 1000 (which is really 12-1300) Will ya shoot one at 1001?

This makes it tough but lets see.

7mm with a 180@3k. This would be a bare minimum to me especially with elk on the table. If you cut the elk requirement back to 800 I'd feel better.
30 with a 215 @ 3k. This would be better than the seven with me comfortable with an easy wind call to 1k on elk. Dicey wind and dial it back to 800.
338 with 300@2850. Best for actual killing power and wind calls. If ya cant hit it with this combo some more practice might be in order. Its that good. The minuses are weight,size,recoil and blast. As good as it shoots these things must be addressed. Just like in algebra though sometimes 1 minus can nullify others. Use weight to make it work. A 17lb 338 with a good brake will be a pussycat to shoot. My 12 yr old shoots mine and he wont play football!
You stated you had several other rifles that shot well but not 1k stuff. Use them for walking hunts and if you get a static setup bring out the 338. I carry mine where it needs to go to make the shot. Yeah its a hefty bitch but once you are there its over, somethings dying. 13-14lb 338s are controllable I just prefer a heavier gun for the bags. Nothing can be done about cost. 338 300gr are at least $.70 a pop for the slug+powder+etc. I can tell you this...once you start shooting 1k with a good gun itll be 1.2k then 1.3k....you get the picture. A 338 will actually save you money because you will miss less especially in the 1000+ range that we all eventually go to.
Any 7mm,300,338 that will hit those velocities with those BCs will be a good rig.
With elk in the mix I say a 338 is the way to go. Every negative except cost with a 338 can be dealt with by building a 13lb+ gun with a good brake and a set of earmuffs. This gives you a round MILES ahead of any 7mm or 300.

 

[.284]

You'll get a lot of opinions but here's my take for you from what I read.

A standard 7 rem mag in an action like a rem 700 that has lots of room in the mag to seat 180 bergers out where they can get close to the lands using a standard 7 rem mag reamer.
In mine with a 26.5 inch tube using a gain twist 1-9 barrel at sea level staying below bergers max retumbo load I get 2975 fps. This will let you take animals you mentioned out to 900 or so. ( some will go further but I think 900ish is good for hunting with this load). And you can whack gongs out to about 1500 yards before going sub sonic.

Standard components and no pita fire forming and what not.

An option for ya

 

[toddc]

Oooops forgot glass. If you are secretly Bill Gates spend bout $80k on a scope....if not spend all you can. There are a ton of good scopes out there and you are building a custom so do it up right. I would say 15x minimum top end up to 25-30 top end. BULLETPROOF. If a scope has a problem at 100 its 10 to 5000 times worse at 1000 yds. Nightforce, s&b, razor,non conquest Zeiss etc.

 

[thespiceguy07]

Both if y'all's suggestions sound pretty good. I'm worried that the 338(lapua I assume) is gonna be too much, but toddc, you're prolly right in that it'll be cheaper in the long run as ill want to keep stepping up and stepping out.
The 7 mag sounds a lot more manageable though.
What about in the middle with a 300 WM and shoot 210's? Will that kinda meet what I'm looking for in y'all's opinion?

 

[angus-5024]

I would go the 7 WSM/Rsuam route first.

To be staight to the point, your going to need two LR guns if your recoil shy. One gun to pack, one gun for static shooting.

The 7mm's can be shot from a fairly light platform, and still offer excellent ballistics. They are also much cheaper to shoot, both with bullets and powder. This caliber will get you wel on your way, and still take elk at 700-800 yards with good placement.

The Static rig should be a 12-17lbs .338 lapua/norma/rum. it will be a hammer at long range and a rifle you can grow into. When you have a place that has serious long range potential you take this one.

Rather than going custom on the 7, there are very good choices out there from the factory, leaving more budget for the .338.
The Win coyote lite in 7wsm, Rem senduro in 7 Rem, and the list goes on.

You could split the diffrence and go with a 300 win/wsm, .340 wby, 325 wsm. these will do both things well, but wont be as good for packing around or static shooting, but will get er' done either way. Use a heavier contour barrel, like a light varmit, and a thumbhole sporter stock (good for off hand shots with the heavy front end).

 

[toddc]

I would go the 7 WSM/Rsuam route first.

To be staight to the point, your going to need two LR guns if your recoil shy. One gun to pack, one gun for static shooting.

The 7mm's can be shot from a fairly light platform, and still offer excellent ballistics. They are also much cheaper to shoot, both with bullets and powder. This caliber will get you wel on your way, and still take elk at 700-800 yards with good placement.

The Static rig should be a 12-17lbs .338 lapua/norma/rum. it will be a hammer at long range and a rifle you can grow into. When you have a place that has serious long range potential you take this one.

Rather than going custom on the 7, there are very good choices out there from the factory, leaving more budget for the .338.
The Win coyote lite in 7wsm, Rem senduro in 7 Rem, and the list goes on.

You could split the diffrence and go with a 300 win/wsm, .340 wby, 325 wsm. these will do both things well, but wont be as good for packing around or static shooting, but will get er' done either way. Use a heavier contour barrel, like a light varmit, and a thumbhole sporter stock (good for off hand shots with the heavy front end).

Good post everyone needs to know the 2 gun rule of LRH.. In LR I always have backup cuz a 1/2" at 100 means OH S@#T in LR.
I thought since he has some walkin guns he ought to just build a real gun. And like you said the 30s are a jack of all trades(Master of none). At LR you need a master not a pretty goodun.
OP dont let all the BS scare you. I use edges in 338 and have used other rounds in the past. A Lapua is mostly the same. These guns will not deafen you. They will not brake your shoulder or detach a retina. They will break an elks shoulder at 1000. They will not put you in bankruptcy because you will fire less because you miss less. Any LR gun you build should be PRETTY HEAVY unless you are a PRO at this. LIGHT GUNS SUCK AT LONG RANGE. Yep they are ez to carry...which is good when you are chasing the gutshot elk all over because you pulled the shot with a light gun.
Build a 13-20lb 338 shooting a 300gr slug 2800+ (lapua,rum,edge,norma,rigby,gibbs,378) and put great glass on it and your sucess at LR will be much greater and easier.
My easiest to shoot, lightest kicking most accurate gun (even at 100) is a 338. Its all in how you set them up and dont let anyone tell you otherwise.
You really ought to go shoot one of them before you decide since you sounded interested except for the "handling it" issue. My kid handles it at 12 yrs old and 100lbs soppin wet.

 

[barnesuser28]

i agree with toddc, recoil isnt much of a factor, i am prolly 110 lbs sopping wet and i shoot a savage 338 Lapua that weighs 14.2 lbs using a 280 grain bullet. Even with the crappy savage brake it doesnt kick too bad. Put a muscle brake or painkiller brake on it and a 14 lb 338 Lapua will kick like a 14 lbs 338 Lapua with a great brake on it .