My first build

[ColoradoOverWatch]

where did you find the savage factory barrel? have not seen anthing on savagearms.com where you can purches them. did see some on midway.. but not sure of the quality. going to look at the balistic diff between the wsm and wm. also, would you go with 11degree crown and muzzel break?

 

[rinodods]

Here is the barrel I found: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=1252080&catid=0 . I'm not sure exactly why I even ordered it. I'm a sucker for an extra barrel I guess. It might save me a half pound over a varmint contour. Guess I'll play with it and see what I get. If you are looking they do sell several calibers. Shoot you can even pick up a standard shank 300RUM on there in a 26" varmint if you want. Just look for stuff with 1.050" threads. Those are the small or standard shank size. A nice match barrel is awesome but you may not loose much by trying a factory barrel either. An aftermarket will clean faster and won't foul as fast. Savage usually does make a good barrel. Keep in mind though that Savage does not mark the barrels until after they are installed. You won't find the Savage name or caliber stamped on these.

300RUM https://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Detail.aspx?pid=1251870&catid=0

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

the 110 and 111 are both standard shanks to there is no difference when they state it is for a savage 110, correct.

 

[rinodods]

Yep. If it is a newer model it will be standard shank. Usually it is only the WSM's and target actions that are large shank. You don't have to worry much about the whole 110/112 thing. They have the same thread size. I don't think I mentioned it before but if you do go RUM it'll be single shot. I can't even run my 300wm in the mag seated out where it likes the loads. Besides any deeper and I start to loose powder space. Of course I load 190 bergers and 208Amax. I'm running about 2850fps with 75.5gr of H1000 and the 208's. That gives me enough punch to be ok on elk in the 1000-1200yrd range if I really wanted to. I've got a few loaded up to 78gr but haven't had time to test much.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

So a few things to keep in mind… if I am going with the 300wm I will need a new mag and depending on the load may not be able to use it. 300RUM will not be able to use the mag and will be limited to a single shot setup . how about the wsm? Will I be able to use the mag with that configuration?

 

[backwoods83]

Well I figured id chime in and save you some time and frustration, with a 300 win mag mag box you are limited to 3.6oal with center feed, there are detachable mag assemblies out there that will accept 3.85oal with slight mods to the action and are a hassle. Also when purchasing a magnum bolthead be sure of the firing pin size, standard .473 or 30-06 boltfaces typically have the large pin as magnums usually don't, there is also a controlled round feed magnum boltface designed for the wsm's and rum's due to the large case and rebated rim but always check because the pins are only interchangable if you put a small pin in a large pin bolthead, but if you do its sloppy, I think you need a little more guidance, not insulting you, but maybe take your completely apart around someone who knows savages inside and out.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

No insult taken. I am trying to figure out what is feasible and what is not. There are so many posts on here which make it sound so easy.
If you have any mechanical aptitude you can go out and buy any old Savage and switch out the barrel with any caliber you want with only a few modifications.
Which is true to some degree… you just have to have to account for ALL the parts.. not just the barrel. (my bad for not thinking about the whole system)
I have quite a few rifles that have been purchased on the cheap over the years and just inherited quite a few more.
Thought I would "retool" one just to see what is involved. I think this thread has pointed out that one should consider all the components that it will take
To achieve their end goal (and to have an end goal defined before you start) given what parts you are starting with.

At this point I am only $430 into my little adventure with a decent base rifle and adjustable trigger. I am a little embarrassed that I did not fully think everything through. I think at this point I will keep the caliber at 30-06, change out the trigger.

Your suggestion of having someone looking over my shoulder the first time through is an excellent idea… anyone in the Denver, Springs area willing to do that… I will buy lunch.. J

 

[backwoods83]

Well I can't help you there, but my suggestion is to take the firing pin assembly out of the bolt and measure the shank the small one is like .115" with a longer tip the large one is like .160" with a short tip, after you figure out which one you have call midway or sss and get a controlled round feed bolt head for that pin, or order a new pin assembly and bolt head. Then use a center feed mag and get a heavy savage varmint/sendero contour barrel in 300wsm with a custom throat length, most savage prefit sellers have 2-4 reamers in the same caliber with slightly different specs on them mostly just the freebore/throat length but some modify lead angle, tight neck etc. Just tell them what bullets you plan to shoot and they will know how it needs to be chambered. After you do this it should operate as smoothly as buying a new savage 300wsm and putting factory ammo through it. It is pretty easy but you are right you need to be familiar with all of the models so you know what will and what won't work. Good luck.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

Also,
how accurate is the SavageArms.com sites part finder section. i put in my SN and it cam back with the correct model. however it is showing that it has a "FIRING PIN ASSY MAGNUM". Guess i will not know what i have until i pull things apart and break out the micrometers.
anyone know where i can find schematics that have the specs on the various models?

 

[backwoods83]

Go to Brownells and get a gunsmith manual for the savage 110 and all its derivatives from 1958 to present, I think the manual is around 45 bucks.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

thanks, i was just searching the web and came across that.

 

[ColoradoOverWatch]

well it was the American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) Technical Manual & Armorer's Course Video "Savage Arms 10-116 Series Bolt Action Rifles" DVD

have not found just a technical manual that has the specs for each model.

 

[rinodods]

I believe you said this was a new Savage. Savage has been using the small pin in all models since around 2001. Or at least that's what the man himself sharpshooter says. That same assembly is used in the 30.06, 7RM, and 300WM. You'll have the small pin. Now if I'm wrong and you bought an older used gun you might need the pin. However, if it is the newer center feed gun you are pretty much set. Get a magnum head (yours should have a little spring loaded plunger sticking out of the bolt face) push feed, magnum mag box, and barrel. If you need a second opinion I'd be happy to take a look. I don't know everything but I'm sure we can figure it out. I've been through a few of these. I've also got all the tools you'd need to swap out so when you are ready if you don't want to buy the wrench and everything we can work something out. Won't take long and I can step you through it all. Also a word of caution. If you go taking the bolt apart please do it inside a plastic bag or something. The last thing you want is bolt parts and springs flying around the house.

 

[backwoods83]

It is likely that you are correct about it having a small pin, but mr. Sharpshooter is incorrect, not all savages after 2001 have a small pin, just most of them. Now post accutrigger rifles share the same pin. Pulling the pin assembly out of the bolt won't cause springs to fly, pull the pin and mic it, simple.