Muzzleloader question

Rick Richard said:
My "Lil 50"

View attachment 725239
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Very nice rifle. I love that stripped stock. I would be afraid to take it hunting in fear I would do something to it. My rifle that I take hunting has its own love marks on it. It doesn't necessary look bad but it's far from mint.

I still remember the first dings I put in it. I had just shot a deer right before it got dark. I had a little bit of a hike to get out and I knew I was running out of daylight so, I was in a rush. I leaned the rifle up against a tree. I was hunting on the mountain and there were rocks all around me. I started to work on the deer and one of the legs caught the rifle and knocked it over. Down in the rocks it went. Several different scratches and dents in both the stock and barrel. It was already getting dark so I couldn't see exactly how bad it was but, found out when I got home.

I got it back to decent shape but, it took a little work. I used accra-glass to fill in some voids and sanded it back smooth. I stripped the barrel back to bare metal and re-browned it. Stripped the finish on the stock. Sanded out some of the imperfections and used steam and an iron to raise some the dents. Put a new coat of finish on when I was satisfied.

I would say that I restored it to 98%. So it was close but not perfect. But, for a tool meant to be used, maybe it is perfect. Now I'm not so concerned about if something happens to it.
 
Pellets and such came out when I was in college. Being dumber then we said how does this compare to BP. From experience I can say a stick grill lighter isn't hot enough to get either a regular pyrodex or 777 pellet to light without holding it on the flame for several seconds. Goes to show how hot the spark from a primer is.
 
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@Rick Richard
My Southern mountain rifle I told you about. It shoots a .490 patched round ball very effectively.

1873.jpg
 
Alright for the ones who know-

I still have two to figure out. I got one cleaned up best I could but the barrel is pitted beyond belief. I talked to TC and the only option for a replacement barrel is on the used market. He also said to try a tight fitting sabot.

Anyhow

I have a CVA optima with a projectile still stuck in the bore. There is no powder. Here's what I've tried so far:

A multi-week soak with kroil
Lead solvent (boretech rimfire) soak
Next to last ditch effort I drilled out the center hoping to get more lead solvent to eat away at the center. It won't budge. It has splintered a couple wooden dowels that were just under bore size

My last ditch is to apply heat. (No powder in bore). I would rather use a heat gun if going this route but may have to use the red wrench.

What should my next move be (other than use it as a tomato stake)?
 
Dot_3 said:
Alright for the ones who know-

I still have two to figure out. I got one cleaned up best I could but the barrel is pitted beyond belief. I talked to TC and the only option for a replacement barrel is on the used market. He also said to try a tight fitting sabot.

Anyhow

I have a CVA optima with a projectile still stuck in the bore. There is no powder. Here's what I've tried so far:

A multi-week soak with kroil
Lead solvent (boretech rimfire) soak
Next to last ditch effort I drilled out the center hoping to get more lead solvent to eat away at the center. It won't budge. It has splintered a couple wooden dowels that were just under bore size

My last ditch is to apply heat. (No powder in bore). I would rather use a heat gun if going this route but may have to use the red wrench.

What should my next move be (other than use it as a tomato stake)?
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You said that you drilled out the center. Do you have access from the breech? I guess you must if you are trying to drive it out. Where in the barrel is the lead located? Do you have access to a steel or metal rod?
 
MarkInPA said:
You said that you drilled out the center. Do you have access from the breech? I guess you must if you are trying to drive it out. Where in the barrel is the lead located? Do you have access to a steel or metal rod?
Click to expand...
I do have breech access. I tried to drive it out from the muzzle end. First tries were with a brass rod before drilling the center out. Subsequent attempts with a wooden dowel that fills the bore more fully. Unfortunately it is lodged/ corroded so badly that the dowel swaged down and through the hole I drilled. The projectile is in the chamber area still
 
I bought a TC Hawken off a guy for $10 with similar problems. In your case the projectile can't be too far from your access point if you could drill through it. I went to Home Depot and bought a 36" piece of threaded rod that was as close to the diameter of the bore that I could find. I had sprayed PB blaster down the barrel from the muzzle and let it stew in that for a week. I pounded out the projectile. I did not use a hammer. I was lucky to have a "dead blow" hammer. I figure that a large mallet would work. Three blows and the projectile and rod blew out the breech. No harm no foul. My $10 muzzleloader has been functioning perfectly ever since.
 
Bring it to a machinist who can put it in a lathe and drill it out….or save the aggravation and expensive and chunk it.
 

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