jamie eaton
Well-Known Member
Looking to change the break on my Ruger American gen 2 . Any advise on removing the factory break ?
muzzle brake removal
- Thread starter jamie eaton
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My hunting buddy got his off his 7-08 using the boiling water method. Softens the loc tite or rocket but some are a pain.
HSmithTX
Well-Known Member
I have gotten a lot of them off with heat, you can roundabout get temps by using oil, rub a very thin coat of oil on the brake and heat until it starts to smoke. Rockset will come loose at 215ish and you can boil in water like crazymonkey said, if it's loc-tite 248 (normal red) boiling won't do it, it will usually take 350-400° before you don't need brute force to take it off. Most gun oils or olive oil will start smoking at or a little before 400°. The loc-tite itself will start to smoke if you go over temp and that is your clue to stop adding heat, no more heat is going to help.
Heat it up, put a bar/rod/wrench on it and twist it off. Make sure your leather gloves are already on before you start heating, don't ask how I know lol.
Heat it up, put a bar/rod/wrench on it and twist it off. Make sure your leather gloves are already on before you start heating, don't ask how I know lol.
PopNFresh
Well-Known Member
heat and hate. when there's a whisp of smoke it's melted and it's time to get angry and twist.
gotta have a solid way to hold it so the barrel doesn't move or twist .
don't glow your barrel, just got to get it hot enough for the loctite to let go, a shock impact can help as well
gotta have a solid way to hold it so the barrel doesn't move or twist .
don't glow your barrel, just got to get it hot enough for the loctite to let go, a shock impact can help as well
Gascot78
scammer
Ruger does not want you to remove it. They often use rocksett (a high-heat, water-insoluble threadlocker) on the threads. And they torque it to industrial gorilla specs. A simple wrench probably won't do it.
I do not want to assume anything, but are you having issues removing the brake, or are you asking before you try? If you have tried, what method(s)?
jamie eaton
Well-Known Member
I am asking before I try as to avoid turning barrel into a pretzel . I was wondering if it was something I can handle or need to find a smith .
ARlife4me
Well-Known Member
you could easily do it yourself, but IF you don't feel comfortable doing it, then don't...................a mini torch is the easy button............no need to get the brake "cherry red" as that IS bad! also if you tighten it before loosening it, it helps. 1 way to keep up with the process is to put something that fits the shape of the holes/slots of the comp/brake and rock back and forth (not harsh) and it'll let you know if it's getting loose
ARlife4me
Well-Known Member
Rotten
Well-Known Member
If you have access to a press or bench vise you can make a wooden clamping blocks by drilling out the size of your barrrel plus about 1/8" and then splitting the block of wood . You need to use oak or another hard wood, pine won't work well. Then you need some thin leather about 1/16 thick to put around the barrel to fill the 1/8" over size hole in your wood blocks and put the blocks of wood together on the barrel and clamp in press or vice. Then heat as suggested in previous posts just enough to break the lock tight bond. I would find a piece of steel that would fit into the holes of the muzzle break to use as a turning tool but wrap electric tape around it so it won't damage anything. Along with a wrench or a crescent wrench on the flats of muzzle break also. Just something I do instead of paying money on barrel vices.
If you follow the instructions in the video link I provided, you should be fine. Now the bigger question is: are you removing and reinstalling it, or replacing it with a better non-radial muzzle brake? I hope it is the latter.
We do not know what you are capable of or comfortable doing yourself, or if you have the necessary tools required to do it. Sometimes it is just best to take it to the GS, esp. when you are replacing the muzzle brake, and it needs to be machined to match/closely match the barrel. Good luck!
jamie eaton
Well-Known Member
You guys are great ! I will attempt this soon and post my results when my new non radial brake arrives . I will be making the blocks out of oak boards I have along with some tanned deer hide for wrapping the barrel . I do have a very good Wilton vise attached to a heavy steel bench and plenty of large wrenches .
Whew, I was hoping that was the case. I am not a fan of radial brakes. I had a Quiet Brake from Gentry (there is nothing quiet about it) and Vais, and I could not get rid of them fast enough. I purchased a used .300 WSM in excellent shape and at a good price; it came with a Vais brake. I have plenty of extra .30 muzzle brakes, but the rifle has a different thread.
It appears you are set. Good luck!
