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Muzzel break in the mail

RustyRick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
267
Location
North Western Alberta
Am I correct to assume that in order to install a muzzle break the barrel will come of the action/receiver?

If so I mayaswell have it trued or checked for trueness at the same time? 10-4?
 
Am I correct to assume that in order to install a muzzle break the barrel will come of the action/receiver?

If so I mayaswell have it trued or checked for trueness at the same time? 10-4?


No, most of the time it can be installed without removing the barrel.

Depending on the length of the barrel and the size/length of the lathe head spindle, Most of the time a brake can be installed with out removing the action from the barrel.

In fact, It is the best way to install a timed brake (Leave the action on the barrel to aid in timing the brake)

if the action has to be removed it should be re head spaced and if the action is blue printed it definitely will need to be head spaced.

J E CUSTOM
 
Ya it needs to be timed so nothing points down.

It's a 26" fluted "Long Range Hunter" in 7RM.

We have several options here for gunsmiths but I was somewhat disappointed with the call from one smith, and don't know the skills of the other.

Thanks for your comeback.
 
No, most of the time it can be installed without removing the barrel.

Depending on the length of the barrel and the size/length of the lathe head spindle, Most of the time a brake can be installed with out removing the action from the barrel.

In fact, It is the best way to install a timed brake (Leave the action on the barrel to aid in timing the brake)

if the action has to be removed it should be re head spaced and if the action is blue printed it definitely will need to be head spaced.

J E CUSTOM

I recently found this out from a new gunsmith I met that lives only 2 miles away from home. I figure I give him a try and start with a muzzle brake install and should be done before the end of the month. He said the exact same thing you noted above. Thanks Jerry!

It's always nice to have a access to a gunsmith nearby ... 5 gunsmiths (two I know are LRH members :D) an hour away.

Cheers!

Ed
 
J E CUSTOM

Do you have a torque recommendation for Assassin muzzle brakes with 11/16" threads?
 
The barrel doesn't usually need to come off but if it does, timing marks are made so it can be put back exactly where it was. If the headspace was good when it came off it will be the same when it goes back on.
 
J E CUSTOM

Do you have a torque recommendation for Assassin muzzle brakes with 11/16" threads?


Sorry, I have been hunting (For a change) and will try to catch up.

I normally start at 30 ft/lbs and may go as high as 60 ft/lbs on the larger thread sizes.

The Assassin brake is made of 416 R (Barrel stainless Steel) and I recommend using a never seize
on the threads to prevent gaulding and make removal easier.(When using a never seize or any lubricant on threads torque should be lowered by at least 30% below the recommended torque values for dry/clean threads.

This works very well and I have never had one come lose accidently. and after repeated install and removal timing remained the same.

I am sure there are some experts on this site that can assist on this question.

J E CUSTOM
 
Am I correct to assume that in order to install a muzzle break the barrel will come of the action/receiver?

If so I mayaswell have it trued or checked for trueness at the same time? 10-4?
I don't know if any one mentioned this yet, but there are clamp on breaks, if your not to fussy about the blocky military look of the thing. Much cheaper than the internal or screw on type. Just giving options, not recommendations.
 
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