When I sight in my scope, I have to move it 7 moa in the wrong direction vertically from true zero. So I'm loosing dial up ability. my scope has 75 vertical travel, divide that in half gives 37.5 up, add 20 for the canted base should give 57.5 dial up. In reality I only have 50 once I get it sighted in. Sure would be nice if it was closer, or even off a little the other direction. Is there any thing that can be done? It's rem 700 action and nightforce rings and bases.
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Mount alignment?
- Thread starter vaquero
- Start date
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blacknzr1
Well-Known Member
you could use burris signature rings. and using the inserts put more cant on the scope.
cwinner
Well-Known Member
You could always get a base with more MOA can't........couple out there but NEAR Manufacturing are my favorite.
Near Manufacturing - Rifle Scope Bases
Near Manufacturing - Rifle Scope Bases
pwillie
Member
Try Gamereepers line bored rings single pece.
Nimrodmar10
Well-Known Member
Have you thought about putting a 40 MOA base on it?
JeffP40
Well-Known Member
Why do you need more than 50moa of elevation? I don't consider it a problem.
MontanaRifleman
Well-Known Member
If you go with 40 MOA bases, you will accomplish 2 things. More up travel and no need for a zero stop.
Here is what I've started doing with scope setups that are somewhat limiting.
I turn the scope elivation nob down to 1/2 of a turn from bottom.Then put a one piece base on and the scope. Then I boresight through the bore and see where the x hairs are. I then shim the back of the base between the screws so that the xhairs line up with target.
Then the base is bedded tightened down so it stays put..
With the 20MOA base on the last 7mag the front actually had to be shimmed up a little to get the x hairs on target. With the IOR 6-24 set @ 18x that gives me 50 MOA of up in the scope and another 20 in the x hairs.
I turn the scope elivation nob down to 1/2 of a turn from bottom.Then put a one piece base on and the scope. Then I boresight through the bore and see where the x hairs are. I then shim the back of the base between the screws so that the xhairs line up with target.
Then the base is bedded tightened down so it stays put..
With the 20MOA base on the last 7mag the front actually had to be shimmed up a little to get the x hairs on target. With the IOR 6-24 set @ 18x that gives me 50 MOA of up in the scope and another 20 in the x hairs.
MontanaRifleman
Well-Known Member
What do you use for shims?
What do you use for shims?
Usually use whats laying around, cut peices of popcan or different sizes of welding wire. I actually prefer wire as it lets you get bedding under the mount easier.If the wire is a little too big it can be flatened a little with a hammer. 3/32 wire has worked well but 1/16th, .045, .035,.030 or .024 will work for lesser amounts.
I'm sure a set of feeler guages would be easier if available and they sell shims just for this kind of thing.
Usually use whats laying around, cut peices of popcan or different sizes of welding wire. I actually prefer wire as it lets you get bedding under the mount easier.If the wire is a little too big it can be flatened a little with a hammer. 3/32 wire has worked well but 1/16th, .045, .035,.030 or .024 will work for lesser amounts.
I'm sure a set of feeler guages would be easier if available and they sell shims just for this kind of thing.
pwillie
Member
You put shims on a scope mount?
You put shims on a scope mount?
I put the shim between the base and the action.Shimming the back of a one piece base gives you more elivation adjustment , shimming the front gives you less.
Once I have it figured out how much is needed the action and screws get a little relese agent and the base is JB welded to the action with the shims in place. The screws are tightened only so contact is made and let harden. After the bedding material has hard the screws are touqued down and exess is trimmed off.
If you look between action and the base you can see the bedding.
I put the shim between the base and the action.Shimming the back of a one piece base gives you more elivation adjustment , shimming the front gives you less.
Once I have it figured out how much is needed the action and screws get a little relese agent and the base is JB welded to the action with the shims in place. The screws are tightened only so contact is made and let harden. After the bedding material has hard the screws are touqued down and exess is trimmed off.
If you look between action and the base you can see the bedding.
