Issue with suppressor alignment

omt223

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I have a hydrid 46 that I have been shooting a bit though for about 3 years now without issue. Its been on a couple of 308s, an AR, and a sig 220, all except the last were shooting fairly smaller bullets through the 9mm end cap which is a bit larger. I recently got a Marlin (ruger) 1894 in 357 and attached the can with an ASR from ebay and have had 2 end cap strikes (didnt really do anythig to the cap as it was subsonic and it just nicked the edge enough to destabilize the bullet and take a little of the jacket off with it.

The first one, I didnt realize you were not supposed to use crush nuts for so I changed to the shims and went back out today and same issue is present. I am assuming the can needs to go back to SiCo but was wondering what the liklihood is that the barrel has some concentricity issues.
 
It could be the barrel threads, or more likely the ASR from ebay. Is that a knock off? I have seen mounts with issues and barrel threads with issues. An alignment rod is invaluable. You can also look from the action end and if you can see any portion of the baffles or end cap, you have a problem.
 
I'd get a couple of alignment rods to see how things look. If crooked across multiple rifles, the can might need to be sent in. Otherwise, it could be the threads on the 1894.
This is exactly the solution.

The difference in bullet diameter vs can caliber on the other rifles would mask any minor misalignment.

By using alignment rods and looking at all rifles involved, the OP can determine whether the misalignment is with all his rifles (meaning the can or mount is defective) or if the misalignment is unique to the 1894 (meaning the rifle is defective).
 
I'm guessing its gonna be mount or maybe barrel last suspect would be can--- but as others said- use an alignment rod to check and see.....I feel like suppressors should come with instructions/disclaimers that state an alignment rod must be used to check before fired on any gun
Should be s.o.p. but people assume you can just screw em on and go. Kinda like building an ar yourself without using headspace gauges to check bolt/barrel , you get lucky most of the time- but occasionally tolerances don't match up and you have a problem
 
I have a suspicion about the muzzle device as it is silver and the ones on SiCo website that are "raw" are gold after heat treating.
 
Precision steel rods are surprisingly cheap and can be had to work with almost any firearm bore diameter. I bought mine at McMaster-Carr:
 
Precision steel rods are surprisingly cheap and can be had to work with almost any firearm bore diameter. I bought mine at McMaster-Carr:
Interesting, what diameter would you want for 357? I assume it needs to be whatever land to land diameter is not actual bore diameter
 
Interesting, what diameter would you want for 357?
SAAMI says a .357's bore diameter is 0.346" (+.004/-.000). From that particular product line at McMaster-Carr, I'd choose the 0.3438" rod for a .357 Mag, which would give you 0.0022" to 0.0062" clearance if everything is where it's supposed to be. With a fit that close, I'd suggest making sure bore and rod are perfectly clean and lightly oiled.
I assume it needs to be whatever land to land diameter is not actual bore diameter
Correct, but land-to-land diameter IS bore diameter. The barrel is bored, then grooves cut. A .300 WinMag, for example, is bored to 0.300", then grooves approximately 0.004" deep are cut, so: .300 + .004 + .004 = .308 bullet. In a hammer forged barrel, same thing but arrived at differently, the minor diameter will match bore diameter and the major diameter will be groove diameter.
 
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