MOA or MIL, Illuminated or non-illuminated

GAHunterJim

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Florida
Looking at my first FFP scope, trying to decide on Mil or MOA, lit or non-lit, have hunted and shot for years with Duplex, time to learn a bit. Would appreciate input! Have other hunting rifles, this one would be combo hunting/target.
 
Use the search feature and all your questions have been covered on dozens of previous threads. Detailed extensively and should really cover what you are looking for.
 
Looking at my first FFP scope, trying to decide on Mil or MOA, lit or non-lit, have hunted and shot for years with Duplex, time to learn a bit. Would appreciate input! Have other hunting rifles, this one would be combo hunting/target.
I like mils and illumination and ffp. If you go ffp imo illumination is necessary for dark woods at low magnification. But ffp is far superior to sfp because the reticle is always correct. As far as mil and moa goes, I use nothing but mils. I like everything being in tenth. Mil is .36" per click, moa is .25" per click. So moa can get you a slightly better zero, but it really doesn't matter, slightly(<.36") left and slightly(depends on flatness of the cartridge, but usually .75") high is were I zero. Spin drift will bring the bullet right(most barrels are righthand twist). Applied Ballistics(ballistic app) will adjust for zero, twist rate, environment. Just remember trash in trash out. Meaning your dope(ballistic data) is only as good as its inputs. By a Kestrel(3500 or better) and good range finder as well.
Whether mils or moa pick one and stick with it.
And Vortex and Leupold have a military/vet/le/fr discount, if you can get it.
And cry once is the saying. Buy quality the first time. I wish I had half my guns but they were twice as nice.
 
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Every scope I own is FFP.
Every scope I own is MIL.
Almost every single scope I have is illuminated. (My two SWFA SS 3-15×42 on 10/22s and a Premier Heritage Light Tactical that bounces around)

I have only needed illumination twice in 30 years.

But...without it, there would be two less BIG animals on the wall. A big Mule Deer buck and a big bull elk. Worth it to me for those two times I have needed it.
 
I run FFP, MIL and non-illuminated, reason being we don't hunt in twilight here like other parts of the world. Learnt with illuminated that in the dark, they cover/obscure more of the target.

Cheers.
 
I'll be learning more about each in an upcoming long range class. My guess is that I'll probably stick to MOA and second focal plane since that is what I have on all platforms. Don't forget that illumination can be turned off on many scopes. I have it but would only use it when it is too dark to quickly find the black reticle against dark background; otherwise it stays off. I'm guessing a great advantage of FFP and MIL is the ability to quickly make mental calculations from the reticle hash marks. Could be useful for making large corrections on followup shots too? For my hunting, if target is beyond 250 yards I'll range it and dial the turret; and that will work fine regardless of the power setting in SFP. Rarely will I get more than a second shot off at same target. From my surveying world I was also used to degrees, minutes, and seconds for angle measurements; which is the basis for MOA.
 
You can always turn illumination off. Remember to remove batteries so they don't corrode (never had it happen yet, but still).

MOA or Mil is personal preference. If I had to start over, I'd do everything in MILs. Probably most important is use what everyone around you does, so you can communicate quickly, accurately, and effectively. You'll all be happier. LOL
 
I have multiple FFP scopes for huntig and am using both MOA and Mil. Illumination is non-negotiable if you're ever going to be hunting dark timber in lowlight. As for MOA/MIL, I dont have strong feelings, and in a perfect world, I would standardize. FWIW, my Last two NF purchases have been SFP with illumination but with max power of 16 or 20 so maxing out to use the reticle isn't a problem. Just my .02.
 
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