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Mauser 98 master questions

257WTBY

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
442
Location
WA STATE
I have a 1916 mfg date model 98. Sometime in the past life of the rifle it was converted to a 220 Swift with a sporter weight barrel. When i got the rifle it was passed down to me but it did not have a scope. I cant find any manufactures name on the barrel. It has a set trigger. Anyhow my problem is the scope i am trying to put on will not fit the rings. NO they are one in rings and one inch scope but the scope bell and the magnification adjustment ring do not let the barrel of the scope into the rings. The bases are to close together. The bases are Weaver and the rings are weaver. The length on the barrel of the scope is 5.8 inches I need 6.2 for the scope to fit. I looked at other rings and bases that are the same as the ones i have online at nachez and midway. How do i get the base to set back atleast one in. I know i could redrill the bases but do not want to put more holes in the receiver. I thought of ordering a longer base and redrilling the holes. I know they need to be right on. Just so u know i am a mill wright by trade and can run all machine shop equipment. I have access to both a manual and CNC mill, so i know i can get them right on.

I want to use this as my primary coyote gun the weatherby is costing me a fortune to shoot the dogs with.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
 
You can buy "extended rings" for Leupold and Redfield style bases. I don't think you can for Weaver style bases, but, I might be wrong, as I don't even look at Weavers when considering scope mounts.
 
I usually dont run weaver style mounts either i just had them on the rifle and decided to use them to see how the rifle shoots before i sink any major cash into it. I think whomever built the rifle originally built it with decent components but i need to put some down range to make sure. I found on Brownells a full length one piece mount and ordered it so i am going to see if i can use it. HOPEFULLY the rifle shoots well if it does look out coyotes. The weatherby and the RRA will get retired or atleast get a break. I will let u know how it turns out...
 
The one piece base should do very nicely if it has multiple slots. If you decide you want to beef up the rings later Weaver grand slams Leupold PRW or QRW will work fine and give you a very strong mounting.
 
Toss the bases you have and install a Picatinny rail of "0 degrees MOA" on the reciever. I suggest an EGW brand. Then you can use rings for a 1" scope of any brand that works on a rail. If needed you might buy an extended rail for clearance.
 
i agree with the rail the only problem is the front and rear are different heights. I ordered a one piece rail from Brownells and just received it today it was made for the Mauser 98 so when i get a minute i will put it on and see.

Thanks for all the help
 
YOU GOT IT. I got off work and went to install the rail and the holes are off. I kind of knew it but i had hope. I am a mill wright by trade so i i can get them right but i will have to take the action and rail into work and the only time i can do that is on the weekends or late night. The bosses dont like us working on fire arms stuff even on our own time.

I will get it on it may not be till next weekend tho but i could go in on New Years day that might be the call.

I was thinking mill out new holes to match the pattern on the rifle I do not want to drill more holes in the receiver so unless someone suggests another idea. My buddy said mill it out and fill it with acra glass. The 98 is converted to 220 swift. so recoil is not a big deal but i want to do it right and make it as accurate as i can.
 
What you need is known as a "gunmakers base/rail". It won't have any holes drilled so you can match the existing holes on your action. If you use the base you have and drill more holes you'll just be another guy making more 'junk'. Too many surplus actions have been milled and drilled on by amatures creating what's known as "swiss cheese". I like Mausers and Springfields. They're the actions I 'cut my teeth on', years ago, when I first stated and was learning to "hand build" sporting rifles. They make fine sporters, for being 'antiques', made of/with questionable metallurgy and slow lock times. They require alot more work than a commercial action (like the drilling and tapping & welding/forging the bolt handle). I won't even consider either action if it's already been drilled and tapped or the bolt handle altered because they've probably been 'worked on' by a 'hobbiest' and once the holes are drilled they're there, permenently! For the record, Springfields that haven't been altered are too valuable to 'sporterized',,,,,,,, Mauser '98s, that are unaltered and not a rusty piece of junk, aren't far from being in the same realm as the Springfields. Sorry if my honest opinion offed.
 
SO my fix was to take the one piece base which was .1981 to short between the mounting holes for the mauser. Here is my thought and what i did. I cut the mount in half to start with. I fitted the rings and scope to the two seperate pieces. I measured them and i took it all back apart and put the two pieces on the mill and milled them off to short mounts (think two piece base). The mounting holes for eac section were right on the holes that were already there. I got it ready to go. Then i took it all back apart and piloshed the pieces i cut and sent them off to be re anodized in a matte black. I should have the bases back the first of next week. Then i will be putting the whole thing together with my new to me Vortex Crossfire II. I got the illuminated dot version on the scope I am putting this together to shoot coyotes with.

Oh BTW the gun has set triggers on it. Are set triggers factory to a model 98? I dont know. Who ever did the conversion on the rifle spent some $$$$ on it. The Walnut stock was done gorgeous.

I agree with u about "hacks" working on guns where they have no idea what to do but good intentions. Whoever originally modified the Mauser did a excellent job. I
 
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