Loc-tite on custom muzzle brake

[Sending156s]

Saturday while testing some loads with RL23 my POI had shifted 1" left at the same time I noticed the custom brake had worked loose a couple of threads. Thoughts on using blue loc-tite on threads. I won't be switching back and forth with a can.
Rifle: 300 WM
Scope: new FFP 5x25 ATACR Nightforce. Scope is secure and I believe good.

***I forgot to mention that I allowed gunsmith to install SARS on rifle. To my understanding SARS is a recoil lug with a pin to fit into his custom picatinny rail. He said he has installed hundreds in PD sniper rifles, but I haven't talked to anyone who has it. If they were installed for PD it would probably be on 308's with less recoil than my 300 WM.

Thanks,
Lynn

 

[jimbires]

I've never had one of mine come loose . does your brake tighten up against a shoulder on the barrel ? mine do so all I do is screw the brake on tight to the shoulder and put my small tool through the ports on the brake and give it a couple of bumps with my hand . they have always stayed tight . I do use anti seize on the threads too , this keeps them from galling .

 

[aushunter1]

Is it a clamp on or screw on brake?

 

[Sending156s]

Screw on
Tightens against a barrel shoulder

 

[jimbires]

I'd say , screw the brake on against the shoulder , put a nice round philips screwdriver through the ports on the brake . give the screwdriver handle a bump or two with the palm of your hand . I think it should stay tight .

 

[jimbires]

I took a couple pics of my brake tool , I think it's from R W Hart . a phillps screwdriver should work just fine . don't go all he-man crazy when you tighten , just a bump or two with your palm .

 

[J E Custom]

If it comes lose from shooting, It is ether not tight enough, or the shoulder or threads are not very good. The only other reason I can think of is dissimilar materials (Brake is made from materials that don't have the same coefficient of expansion as the barrel) Titanium is one of those materials that have a reputation for shooting lose.

I recommend using Anti-Seize on the threads so they can be taken of if need be and thread wear is held to a minimum. I have never had one come loose even on the intense cartridges that use 100 grains of powder to 130+ grains.

J E CUSTOM

 

[simo hayha]

A drop of blue locktite ain't gonna hurt nuttin

 

[Sending156s]

If it comes lose from shooting, It is ether not tight enough, or the shoulder or threads are not very good. The only other reason I can think of is dissimilar materials (Brake is made from materials that don't have the same coefficient of expansion as the barrel) Titanium is one of those materials that have a reputation for shooting lose.

I recommend using Anti-Seize on the threads so they can be taken of if need be and thread wear is held to a minimum. I have never had one come loose even on the intense cartridges that use 100 grains of powder to 130+ grains.

J E CUSTOM

This is a new build custom that I have already had a crazy amount of problems with. I had a post in gunsmith forum titled sticky bolt. The different materials seem realistic, but also based on the other work he may never have tightened it in the 1st place. Thanks

 

[Kimber7man]

A drop of blue locktite ain't gonna hurt nuttin

Agree. Use 243 as it cuts through any oil.

 

[sab]

While I agree that you shouldn't need thread locker to keep a brake tight, if you do decide to use something, look into Flexbar Rocksett (Brownell's and MidwayUSA sell it). It's arguably the best threadlocker for flash hiders and brakes.

sab

 

[jimirwin]

While I agree that you shouldn't need thread locker to keep a brake tight, if you do decide to use something, look into Flexbar Rocksett (Brownell's and MidwayUSA sell it). It's arguably the best threadlocker for flash hiders and brakes.

sab

I use Rocksett on all. Silencer Shop even provides a small packet with what it sells. Heat actually cures it, but does NOT soften it. It is inorganic. Only way to loosen its grip is warm water ... maybe add a drop of dish soap.

 

[ntsqd]

I'd suggest using a hardwood dowel for tightening it instead of the screw-driver for two reasons. Non-marring; will break if you get too aggressive.

I'd shoot the rifle after knowing that the brake is tight before deciding if there is a problem that requires some form of thread locking method or agent.

 

[DSheetz]

Do you want to index the brake so it ports the gas in a certain direction are there any torque specs you should adhere to . If it needs to be indexed do you have the shims to do that or the lathe to cut it the right amount for the proper length to index right ?If you want to loc-tite it do you want to take it off any time in the future ? If you use anti-seize will you want to tighten it then loosen it a couple of times before the final tightening to get the threads seated to each other properly ? Am I over thinking this but this is the way I was trained to do to , do it one time right and no redo .