Most all of my rifles have a muzzle brake as I am a sheep/goat/chamois/ibex hunter and shoot almost exclusively magnums. I rarely remove any of the brakes but do make an effort to clean well and have never had a problem with them loosening after making sure they were properly tightened, this is the result of 30 years experience for me - you could have a different experience as per Murphy's Law.
Loc-Tite on a muzzle brake ?
- Thread starter Laelkhunter
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Laelkhunter
Well-Known Member
Do you put anything on the threads, or leave them clean and dry? Do you use anything to torque them down, or just hand tight?
Mine is a .340 Weatherby, and I haven't used anything to tighten the brake. I was hesitant to put anything metal in the holes to torque it down. I only hand tightened it up til now.
jimbires
Well-Known Member
I bought the muzzle brake tool from Bobby Hart ," RW Hart and son" . I took a quick look on his website , but I couldn't find it . here is a pic with it in the background . it just looks like a pin punch . it's a black handle with a shiny pin . it's on top of the clear plastic storge boxs . I just put it through a hole and give it a bump with the palm of my hand . I don't use anti seize on my brakes . I just put a dab of gun grease on the threads , it takes very little .
Laelkhunter
Well-Known Member
Thanks. I will look into one .
J E Custom
Well-Known Member
Ported brakes have to be timed, but I have never had to re-index any brake after removing it if the shoulders were cut square and had enough surface because there is just not that much wear removing and re installing many times (Especially when using anti seize).
I always level the rifle and then level the brake on ported brakes.
And No, I don't use timing washers when I install the brake my self because it is timed by machining the muzzle brake shoulder on the barrel while still in the lathe.
Radial brakes don't have to be timed, But they look better when they are timed.
J E CUSTOM
LongBomber
Well-Known Member
I saw a youtube video of tightening on a brake. The guy used a snapping the fingers motion to "snap" it the last 1/8 turn or so. I have been doing it since and never have a problem with mine. No threadlocker, but I do give the threads a drop of oil after I clean the barrel.
Below is an MB custom made by one of my gunsmith ...
... and for an additional $20, it came with a thread protector and a pin to remove or reinstall it. I tried it when I picked it up and it works but I never really have the need to remove it (and that goes with all my MBs) since I can clean it installed. IIRC, he used anti-seize lube.
jimbires
Well-Known Member
Below is an MB custom made by one of my gunsmith ...
... and for an additional $20, it came with a thread protector and a pin to remove or reinstall it. I tried it when I picked it up and it works but I never really have the need to remove it (and that goes with all my MBs) since I can clean it installed. IIRC, he used anti-seize lube.
that's all you need right there , just something simple works fine . in one of the other post a Fella mentioned using a round blade screwdriver . notice that both our tools are short . this keeps you from being able to over tighten the brake .
markopolo50
Well-Known Member
This is what Kimber Mountain Ascent came with to remove their muzzle brake. About 3" long, so not alot of torque there.
