Loc-Tite on a muzzle brake ?

[Laelkhunter]

Does anyone use loc-tite on a muzzle brake, or just hand tighten them? I find that after three or four shots, I can turn the brake a little to bottom it out (less than 1/8 of a turn). It is apparently coming loose a little after several shots. Should I use some type of thread-locker? It does not have a set screw or crush washer. I remove the brake and put the thread protector on when I clean the rifle, and carefully clean the carbon from the brake before re- installing, so I don't think it should be "locked on" so that I can't remove for cleaning.

 

[Edd]

I was told you should lubricate them and torque them to about 30 ft lbs.

 

[J E Custom]

I was told you should lubricate them and torque them to about 30 ft lbs.

+1
I like to use Anti seize on brakes so they can be removed for cleaning or replacing with a thread protector.

If the threads are good and the shoulder is square you should have no problem after torqueing.

I use a piece of drill rod or a Philips head screw driver to tighten the brake.

Loc-tite can sometimes cause gaulding and once this happens you will never be able to remove the brake again.

J E CUSTOM

 

[the jigger]

Not red loc-tite! I use blue loc-tite on all of my threads.
GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!!

 

[Rich Coyle]

Laelkhunter,

I use a small amount of blue loc-tite on brakes. I'm tired of them coming loose.

 

[velvetant]

Hand tight with blue loc-tite

 

[jimbires]

I lube the threads ,and hand tighten with a round rod . I don't think I've ever had one come loose .

 

[Bravo 4]

+1
I like to use Anti seize on brakes

Loc-tite can sometimes cause gaulding and once this happens you will never be able to remove the brake again.

J E CUSTOM

+1
I learned it the hard way.

 

[Laelkhunter]

+1
I like to use Anti seize on brakes so they can be removed for cleaning or replacing with a thread protector.

If the threads are good and the shoulder is square you should have no problem after torqueing.

I use a piece of drill rod or a Philips head screw driver to tighten the brake.

Loc-tite can sometimes cause gaulding and once this happens you will never be able to remove the brake again.

J E CUSTOM

I was wondering about galling the threads since the barrel is stainless and the brake is blued steel. That's why I was hesitant about putting anything on it.

 

[J E Custom]

I will say this, Loc-Tite is like a Dremel tool When working on firearms, USE IT SPARINGLY !!!!!!!

Just some advice

J E CUSTOM

 

[dok7mm]

I take a somewhat different view on brakes. A top Smith usually puts a good bit of time in installing and indexing brakes. Mine use anti-seize on the threads and warn me the more I remove & replace it, the more likely the indexing will be off, over time. Now, I don't know if that's true, but I tend to not remove them more than yearly and then only to do an inspection. My first step in cleaning is to saturate brake with BoreTech carbon remover and use a brush to get at the tough spots. Just the way I do it, not a problem so far.

 

[Laelkhunter]

+1
I like to use Anti seize on brakes so they can be removed for cleaning or replacing with a thread protector.

J E CUSTOM

What brand of anti-seize do you use ? I have some Permatex automotive anti-seize, but it smells BAD !!! I would be concerned about using it on my Elk rifle. If they made it in Cow Elk in estrus scent, that would be the ticket !!

 

[geo4061]

Do you use new timing washers when remounting the brake? Do you use the anti seize on suppressors?

 

[Laelkhunter]

Do you use new timing washers when remounting the brake? Do you use the anti seize on suppressors?

My brake has holes all the way around it, and no washer. I don't have any experience with suppressors, so I have to answer "no" to your second question.