Light primer strikes

Completely disassemble ALL parts of the bolt and clean.

Place all parts in gunk carburetor cleaner.

Air hose out bolt internal parts

Install a NEW bolt spring

Lightly lub internal parts with 100% SYNTHETIC grease

This is what I would recommend because it works for me.
 
Recently I had a very similar situation to what you have experienced but in my case it was with two 100 case boxes of Lapua 223 Match brass for two different new rifles . Just like you I thought it was the new rifles and with one of them I even got the supplier to send me a new bolt and barrel as it was a switch barrel system. I tried different primers, measured primer seating depth and checked firing pin protrusion. I even went to the extent of trying the 10 cases in my older Steyr rifle and they still wouldn't fire. At that point I ordered and duly received a Wilson Cartridge Case Gauge. All of the 10 faulty cases sat at least 0.010" below the minimum case length mark. I necked them up to .243 and then back down to .224 leaving a false shoulder and once they were fire formed I have had no more trouble.
In your case I wonder if when you pulled the bullets from the FTF cases that there was enough force to pull the shoulder forward a few thou which then allowed the firing pin to fire the primers?
That's a good point. The brass could be out of spec. Since you fired it without a projectile just to pop the primer it won't have expanded. You might measure the five pieces for headspace and shoulder index point and see if they are out.
 
I had that happen on a Marlin 1894M .450Marlin. I was seating primers with a Lee hand primer. I must have been using too much muscle as I got a lot of FTF.
Took everything apart and set the primers with just moderate pressure but still even with case and never had another problem.
 
Overseating primers used to be a more common problem. A lot of the original Speer primers were made with a compound that became too brittle when it dried and it would crack during reconsolidation and fail to fire. These days, at least for common brands like CCI and Federal, you don't have a brittle compound in the cup. However, reliability research by Naval Ordnance at Indian Head (NOIH) showed it is best not to compress past 0.004" deeper than where the anvil feet contact the floor of the primer cup. Olin and Remington always allowed for up to 0.006", but NOIH found that went too far for best reliability.

If you have a depth micrometer, you can measure your primer pocket depth. A caliper depth stem at the back of the beam is hard to use accurately if you don't have a T-bar depth adapter to keep the beam square with the case head. To use it most easily, mount it on a digital caliper. Hold it against the case head and extend the proper to touch the bottom of the primer pocket floor. Push the caliper zero button. Next, place the primer you will seat in the caliper jaws and measure its height. There will normally be a number that is zero to minus 0.002" on the caliper. This is how far below flush with the head the primer will be when its feet just barely kiss the floor. Subtract another 0.003" from that number to get the distance below flush the primer will be when it has that much reconsolidation or compression of the compound or bridge set. Now zero the caliper on a flat surface like a piece of plate glass. Seat the primer and measure and add seating pressure until the caliper reads the right reconsolidation value below flush.
 
Here is a lesson that I learned recently and did not see mention- If your bolt has a plunger style ejector- depress the plunger with a punch a size smaller and observe if it flushes out with the bolt face or countersinks. If it protrudes, you have a problem. I had a bolt that had a protruding plunger. The problem(FTF), showed up with a batch of brass I shoulder bumped too much(.006/.007 used wrong Redding comp holder than my notes and didn't measure initially-sloppy!). The over bump combined with the proud plunger caused fail to fire. Ground off plunger and problem went away. The remaining over bumped rounds went bang. I will always check any new bolt for this....
 
Sorry if wrong forum.
I've had 5 out of 90 what I'm assuming are light strikes with a new rifle.
After removing bullet and powder I chambered the primed empty brass and they all fired. Measured firing pin protrusion and best I can tell it's .046-.047 which from my understanding is what bighorn says it's supposed to be.
Big horn sr3 action
Proof steel barrel
Peterson brass
Cci br4 primers
Any ideas? Don't have headspace gauges but fired brass measures .003-.004 longer than new brass.
Are they reloads? I had a guy at the range was experiencing an inordinate number of light primer strikes, in two different rifles. I'm not one for coincidences. He lived close buy so I asked if I could watch him reload. About two weeks later he told me he was ready for a session. I found that he was using large pistol primers because large rifle primers were impossible to find. I had a dial caliper in my tackle box which I used to show him how much "shorter" the pistol primers were. His loads looked normal because the primer wasnt seated all the way. When he finally found large rifle primers and loaded again his light primer strikes disappeared. I realized you are using BR4's so not pistol primers. Just sharing this experience.
 
I have personally had really bad time the the cci br4 primers. try Some federal 215m primers before faulting the bolt assembly. I've never had a misfire with them. Easy place to start
That would be very interesting to see.
 
This is almost certainly the result of incompletely seated primers, as already mentioned, and that can be in combination with grease in the bolt. Strikes may look light compared to fired rounds because the pressure of normal firing will push the primer back over the firing pin before it withdraws, deepening the mark. So the primer in a successfully fired cartridge case looks like it was struck more deeply than the one in the cartridge that failed to ignite does.

Primers are designed to be seated until the feed of the anvil touch the bottom of the primer pocket, and then to be compressed further in by -0.002" to -0.006" to "set the bridge" (the thickness of priming mix between the tip of the anvil and the bottom of the primer cup). It is also called "reconsolidation" of the primer (the first consolidation being assembly at the factory, and the second, or "re" consolidation being this squeeze you put on it in the primer pocket). U.S. Naval Ordnance at Indian Head did testing in the late 1970s to show the best and most consistent ignition occurs when reconsolidation is -0.003". However, Federal, specifically (and uniquely, AFAIK) says to use -0.002" with their small rifle and pistol primers and -0.003" with their large primers.

Getting reconsolidation exact requires special tools, like the K&M Primer Gage Tool or an adjustable primer seating tool combined with measuring primer pocket depths, primer heights, and depth of the primer in the pocket afterward. It's a good bit of bother. Also, you frequently find it is just plain hard to seat primers this deeply. Simpler methods include seating -0.004" below flush with the case head and assuming that covers it. The integral priming tool on the Forster Bonanza Co-ax press does this. You can also set the adjustable priming tools to do this. A still simpler method is to go by feel, just seating primers pretty hard. You can learn the fell by measuring a few and then just pushing hard.




Headspace Not The Issue

In a typical high-power rifle load, after the firing pin pushes the cartridges forward to its stopping point against the headspace determinate, growing pressure sticks the case body to the chamber walls. Shortly after that, it proceeds to force the head back against the breech face by stretching the brass at the pressure ring. When that happens, a protruding primer is reseated so it is flush with the face of the case head when you extract the case. Only when pressure is too low does the head not stretch to the breech face to reseat the primer. So a protruding primer is a low-pressure sign, and not an excess headspace sign.

The sign of excess headspace is a mushroomed primer spread out to start filling the width of the radius at the mouth of the primer pocket. This happens because, when the primer backed out, it backed out so far that so much of it was unsupported by the primer pocket walls that it actually was slightly inflated behind the case head by the chamber pressure. Then when the head stretched back to reseat the primer, it flattened that swollen portion, which is how it got out into the edges of the primer pocket and wider than the rest of the primer cup (that is the definition of mushrooming in a primer).

CAUTION: The mushroomed primer is also a high-pressure sign in a normally headspaced gun because even when the primer protrusion into the head clearance space is the normal small amount allowed by average headspace, it can still be inflated by excess pressure with the same result to its appearance. This is why you need to check headspace independently of primer signs. If your rifle uses a rimless bottle-neck cartridge with no belt, it headspaces on the chamber shoulder. Assuming the cartridge is at least a few thousandths shorter from head to shoulder than the headspace is for smooth chambering, the gap between the breech face and the case head when the firing pin pushes the cartridge forward is called the head clearance (sometimes mistakenly called the headspace even by "experts", an error mentioned in the SAAMI glossary).

The easiest way to check for excess headspace is with a case comparator adapter for your calipers, such as the ones sold by Hornady. Ideally, you compare the case-head-to-case-shoulder measurement on a case that was fired in your chamber (and not yet resized) to the same measurement made on a headspace GO gauge for your chambering. A GO gauge is made to be the minimum headspace length. Because the case will spring back a thousandth or so after firing, you then expect the average result to be anywhere from -0.001" below the gauge measurement to about 0.007" over before it is excessing. Some gunsmiths and the military allow a bit more, but IMHO, over +0.008 it is time to look at setting the barrel back or replacing it.

If you don't have a headspace GO gauge for your chambering, compare your case to measurements taken from commercially loaded new ammunition. Such ammunition is usually -0.002" to -0.003" shorter than a GO gauge, so you would expect your normal measurement to be +0.002" to +0.010" bigger than the commercial load cases to be in the normal range.

If you don't have a comparator, you can improvise one with a spacer that has a hole that stops somewhere in the middle of the shoulder and, with it slipped over the mouth of the fired case and again over the GO gauge or the commercially loaded new ammunition, you can make the same comparisons. It is just more fiddly to have to keep the spacer, case, and caliper all lined up correctly.

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I have seen videos where the reloader just used a fired pistol case of the appropriate diameter and length to accomplish this measurement also. As long as it is done the same each time it really doesn't matter.
 
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