I just bought a 28 Nosler ...

180 hybrid with H-1000 or Retumbo is my favorite. I would also go TI pro 3 if I didn't have a brake.
The ti pro's are great for reducing recoil and super light but I can't stand how much dirt and sand it blows back at me when prone. The mbm's are designed to not blast the ground as much and I definitely notice a difference. Mbm also makes a few ti brakes and their recoil reduction is top notch.
 
The ti pro's are great for reducing recoil and super light but I can't stand how much dirt and sand it blows back at me when prone. The mbm's are designed to not blast the ground as much and I definitely notice a difference. Mbm also makes a few ti brakes and their recoil reduction is top notch.
As a hunting rifle I don't plan to shoot it prone a lot . But thank you .
 
It's a Savage Ultra Light with the Proof Carbon wrapped barrel , just a hunting gun . I'm new to this caliber , but it seemed to check off a lot of boxes .
I have a Nikon Black FX1000 scope , but thinking maybe it needs a lighter scope . I also have an Accupoint 4x16 . I ordered ADT brass and RCBS dies , and have several different bullets . I'm thinking ELDX 180 to start with ? I have VLD 168's and Partition 160's , and ELDX 162's and 150's with RL25 and 19 , plus H4831SC . Of course I'll start low and work up , off several loading charts .
Anybody have any input on what might work bet ? Just trying to get a head of the game , I'm sure someone has this all figured out already .
Oh , and it's a 1 in 8.4 twist .
Oh part deux , it didn't come with a brake , what would you get for a brake ?
Thanks for any and all input .
I would venture towards N57O, been getting single digit SDS average 6sd to 1sd numbers with N570 Fed 215M primers, ADG Brass
Bullet weight from 160 to 195.
 
ADG brass
Fed GM215M or CCI 250
RL33, N570, N565, or Retumbo (N570 is hard on throats, but great speeds)
180 ELD-X, 180 VLD, 180 Hyb, 184 Hyb, 190 LR Hyb, 195 Elite, or 197 SMK

Expect between 3050-3120 from a 195.
Or 3100-3200 from a 180.

Expect 500-1000 rounds of barrel life, depending on powder/bullet choice and velocity.

Get a good 3-5 port side port brake, whether you plan to shoot a lot of prone or not. Even once with a radial brake will blow a ton of crap into your face and rifle.
 
ADG brass
Fed GM215M or CCI 250
RL33, N570, N565, or Retumbo (N570 is hard on throats, but great speeds)
180 ELD-X, 180 VLD, 180 Hyb, 184 Hyb, 190 LR Hyb, 195 Elite, or 197 SMK

Expect between 3050-3120 from a 195.
Or 3100-3200 from a 180.

Expect 500-1000 rounds of barrel life, depending on powder/bullet choice and velocity.

Get a good 3-5 port side port brake, whether you plan to shoot a lot of prone or not. Even once with a radial brake will blow a ton of crap into your face and rifle.
Thank you , and everyone else . I've ordered ADG brass and have GM215M primers and 180 ELDX's and am in the process of getting a TI Beast 5 port from MBM .
My guy has N570 and US869 , Hornady shows US869 as the best FPS load . But he only has it in 8 lbs jugs . I have a bunch of RL25 , might try that first , what do you think ?
 
My 28 is a 1:8 twist Proof with a titanium brake. I started with 175g LRABs then went to 195g Bergers, but finally settled on 177g Hammers behind RL 33. They all shoot great, but the Hammers are consistently one ragged hole at 100 and I trust their performance. They are also dead center steel smackers at 600yds. (my self imposed hunting max range). I built my 28 as a dedicated elk rifle and it performed perfectly for me on a big bull elk. Since building it for my elk, my son borrowed it to kill a 80" antelope, a 170" Wyoming Bighorn, and a 200" mule deer. He thinks it's his now and I doubt I will ever be able to wrestle it back from him!
I wasted a good deal of precious barrel life settling on the bullet I wanted to use. I'd recommend deciding if the 180s or whatever bullet are what you want to stick with, and I wouldn't waste too much barrel life on RL25. I'm pretty sure you will want something slower. If you have access to N570 I'd go that direction.
I hope you are as happy with yours as I have been with mine (or my son's)
 
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Thank you , and everyone else . I've ordered ADG brass and have GM215M primers and 180 ELDX's and am in the process of getting a TI Beast 5 port from MBM .
My guy has N570 and US869 , Hornady shows US869 as the best FPS load . But he only has it in 8 lbs jugs . I have a bunch of RL25 , might try that first , what do you think ?
US869 is not one of the Extreme line of powders. Meaning it might not be as temperature stable as other powders. I have not first hand experience with it, as I have used several others in about 45 different 28 Nosler loads instead.
RL33 is always my first choice
N570 is second
IMR8133 was a very close third, but has been doscontinued.
Retumbo would be the only other choice for me.
N565 might be slow enough with the lighter (180) bullets.
H1000 actually works well, but it is harder to get the speeds that RL33 and N570 will produce with better case fill.
 
RL33 is very accurate and very sooty and not temp stable either, if you live in a warm climate remember that when working up loads. I would hate to hear you worked up hunting loads in the winter and took it out in July/August to try and end up popping a primer due to pressure.
 
US869 was a no go for me, using a 20" drop tube I couldn't get enough in the case to get any pressure signs at all with a 195 at 3.600ish which put me about .010" off the lands. So I used a Frankford vibraprime primer tube filler pistol grip deal to vibe the powder down in the case after drop tubing it. That worked well, I could get another couple grains in without the bullet pushing back out of the case much. Still no pressure at all, from memory it was around 3060-3070 and my OAL was not consistent because the case fill was way over 100% and it was pushing the bullets back out of the case some. Case head expansion was under a half thou on every case and usually close to zero, case necks were sooted fairly badly, not enough pressure for me at all. RL33 and N570 will go faster and at the same length will start to show some pressure so to me are much better choices. I haven't finished testing 570 to find max charge in my rifle but RL33 will go about 100 fps faster before you get bolt lift starting to get heavy and very light ejector swipe, and to me I need to know where that point is so I can drop back a node or two and know exactly how far from max I am and how wide that node is. 869 would probably be fine for breaking in the barrel and with a case stuffed full you might get a decent case formed to your chamber, as always start low and work up. I would not buy it again, I had the same issue in 300RUM with 212 and 215's at 3.600ish, could not get enough in the case to get any pressure sign at all. Glad I only bought 4# of it. It was reasonably accurate and I will burn the rest breaking in barrels and getting a rough case form to my chamber.

With heavy bullets RL33 is my first choice, N570 is my second so far, RL26 also works well and if not pushing for the redline on speed Retumbo and H1000 are excellent choices for consistency and accuracy. My 28's will likely live out the rest of their barrel lives shooting 180 hybrids and H1000 for shooting and RL33 for hunting.
 
It's a Savage Ultra Light with the Proof Carbon wrapped barrel , just a hunting gun . I'm new to this caliber , but it seemed to check off a lot of boxes .
I have a Nikon Black FX1000 scope , but thinking maybe it needs a lighter scope . I also have an Accupoint 4x16 . I ordered ADT brass and RCBS dies , and have several different bullets . I'm thinking ELDX 180 to start with ? I have VLD 168's and Partition 160's , and ELDX 162's and 150's with RL25 and 19 , plus H4831SC . Of course I'll start low and work up , off several loading charts .
Anybody have any input on what might work bet ? Just trying to get a head of the game , I'm sure someone has this all figured out already .
Oh , and it's a 1 in 8.4 twist .
Oh part deux , it didn't come with a brake , what would you get for a brake ?
Thanks for any and all input .
I put a MBM TI five port on mine. (Same gun). I should have gone with a four port as it is just as effective and slightly shorter. Mine did not like the heavier bullets and stacks 160AB's @ 3000.
 
You might want to shoot your rifle before putting a brake on it. I have a 7stw which is virtually identical (2 grs less case capacity). When I got it I was shocked at how gentle the recoil was. I am shooting 160 NAB with H-1000 @ 3250 fps.
 
RL33 is very accurate and very sooty and not temp stable either, if you live in a warm climate remember that when working up loads. I would hate to hear you worked up hunting loads in the winter and took it out in July/August to try and end up popping a primer due to pressure.
I have shot 28 Nos loads with RL33 (and so have many of the guys I loaded for) from 4* to 115*+ and seen very little velocity/pressure swings. Not RL22 and RL25 are terrible, like 1-2fps per 1*. And RL26 above 85* can climb in pressure really fast.
 
I have shot 28 Nos loads with RL33 (and so have many of the guys I loaded for) from 4* to 115*+ and seen very little velocity/pressure swings. Not RL22 and RL25 are terrible, like 1-2fps per 1*. And RL26 above 85* can climb in pressure really fast.
I must have had a bad batch, in TX weather from Hunting temps then summer temps I had a stiffer bolt and one popped primer, I was running mine fairly Hot on the load I settled on. I just wanted him to be aware of what could happen. I had H1000 pressure spike while I was at the bench in October on a very Hot day load development and had my ammo box open and single feeding, it did not cross my mind with them exposed to the sun before I had high pressure starting to kick in. When I had a stiff bolt I was wondering what happened then it hit me looking at the ammo.. After putting them in the shade for a little while it settled down.
 

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