How to reset scope to factory zero?

[Brydawg512]

Hello all,

Soon I'll be purchasing a Bergara B14 Hunter in 7mm rem mag, and I will be pairing is with a brand new Vortex Viper PST.

So, when I first get the rifle and mount the scope I will be shooting factory rounds, however, come this summer I will begin developing a handload for this rifle.

My question is here... When I sight in my rifle with the factory loads and make the elevation and windage turret adjustments to zero it, should I "slip" the turret caps to zero it all out? Or should I just make note of what my "zero" (say 2 mil elevation, and 1 mil windage) is with the factory load and not "slip" the turret caps until I've developed my intended, long-term handload?

Thanks in advance!

 

[dfanonymous]

Hello all,

Soon I'll be purchasing a Bergara B14 Hunter in 7mm rem mag, and I will be pairing is with a brand new Vortex Viper PST.

So, when I first get the rifle and mount the scope I will be shooting factory rounds, however, come this summer I will begin developing a handload for this rifle.

My question is here... When I sight in my rifle with the factory loads and make the elevation and windage turret adjustments to zero it, should I "slip" the turret caps to zero it all out? Or should I just make note of what my "zero" (say 2 mil elevation, and 1 mil windage) is with the factory load and not "slip" the turret caps until I've developed my intended, long-term handload?

Thanks in advance!

It's up to you. If you slip it on factory ammo you do double the work but get to have a baseline.

If you don't get confused and just move the reticle to the center of the group or shot then no need to slip until you are ready

 

[Greyfox]

I you were planning on dialing, or wanted to do a tall test on the scope, I would be inclined to set the turrets to zero, and record the setting if you're interested in knowing the scopes factory zero. It's easy enough to set the turrets, and reduces the possibility of confusion or errors. It's likely your factory load zero won't be that far off from your handload zero(100/200 yards). IMO.

 

[AZShooter]

The others have given you good information.

As for the answer to the title of your thread: anytime you want to put a scope back to factory zero (center of windage and elevation adjustments) place a mirror in direct contact with front objective. Look into scope. You will see double image of reticle. Adjust windage and elevation knobs till both crosshairs are in same place.

 

[LDHunter]

The others have given you good information.

As for the answer to the title of your thread: anytime you want to put a scope back to factory zero (center of windage and elevation adjustments) place a mirror in direct contact with front objective. Look into scope. You will see double image of reticle. Adjust windage and elevation knobs till both crosshairs are in same place.

This method above can save you a heck of a lot of time and effort and you'll get an idea how far out of alignment other things are rather than the crosshairs when you do it. LOL

Often a new scope that is properly centered requires massive adjustment to get the crosshairs to match up with POI.

That can be an indication of a LOT of different things but the real problem if a LOT of adjustment is needed is that you're scope will then be operating in a region of it's adjustment range where it's not as efficient and that can create several more problems.

 

[L.Sherm]

I dont want to get off track, but why are you gonna wait untill summer to developed a load?
Cycling new brass through a new barrel is the perfect time. You can get a feel of what powder, primer,bullet etc. it likes and typically new barrels speed up in the neighborhood of 75-100 rounds then you can finish your load. Will put alot less rounds down your barrel.
Just my thoughts.

 

[Brydawg512]

I you were planning on dialing, or wanted to do a tall test on the scope, I would be inclined to set the turrets to zero, and record the setting if you're interested in knowing the scopes factory zero. It's easy enough to set the turrets, and reduces the possibility of confusion or errors. It's likely your factory load zero won't be that far off from your handload zero(100/200 yards). IMO.

Are you saying to count the number of clicks till stop in both the clockwise and counterclockwise direction of both the elevation and windage turrets and record this number to remember factory zero?

 

[Brydawg512]

This method above can save you a heck of a lot of time and effort and you'll get an idea how far out of alignment other things are rather than the crosshairs when you do it. LOL

Often a new scope that is properly centered requires massive adjustment to get the crosshairs to match up with POI.

That can be an indication of a LOT of different things but the real problem if a LOT of adjustment is needed is that you're scope will then be operating in a region of it's adjustment range where it's not as efficient and that can create several more problems.

Are you saying to use this mirror method before making any adjustments to the scope in it's unaltered, factory form? Is it necessary to align the reticles using the method before even sighting the rifle in?

 

[Brydawg512]

I dont want to get off track, but why are you gonna wait untill summer to developed a load?
Cycling new brass through a new barrel is the perfect time. You can get a feel of what powder, primer,bullet etc. it likes and typically new barrels speed up in the neighborhood of 75-100 rounds then you can finish your load. Will put alot less rounds down your barrel.
Just my thoughts.

That's the the time I'll take till I can purchase the reloading equipment.. LOL .. I won't be putting any number of factory rounds down the barrel however.

 

[L.Sherm]

Gotcha.

 

[LDHunter]

Are you saying to use this mirror method before making any adjustments to the scope in it's unaltered, factory form? Is it necessary to align the reticles using the method before even sighting the rifle in?

No... It's not necessary to align the reticle before sighting in the rifle. Only to get your reticle in the center position so you can see how far off of that center you'll have to adjust your scope before bringing your reticle to point of impact. If you want to be sure your scope is operating near the center of it's adjustment range it can be important.

You can use adjustable rings such as the Burris Signature rings. Here is a video that tells you how to use them.


You'll also notice that if you use these rings properly you'll never cause ring marks on a scope.

 

[Litrfoot]

Zero on which ever load you will shoot the most. Then shoot the other load and record the offset and enter it in your ballistic computer, save it under the title of your choice. Test the dope out to your desired distances and verify. Done. This is called a zero offset in your ballistic computer.

 

[Brydawg512]

Zero on which ever load you will shoot the most. Then shoot the other load and record the offset and enter it in your ballistic computer, save it under the title of your choice. Test the dope out to your desired distances and verify. Done. This is called a zero offset in your ballistic computer.

So, if I intend to hunt and use a handload, I should zero with that load. Then, I can shoot a factory load and see how far off of zero that round is?

 

[arch408]

Unless you use adjustable mounts like Leupold, standard or Burris Z Signature rings, it doesn't matter where factory Zero is. You are going to adjust the scope to sight it in anyway. The Leupold is my go to mount and I use the Burris ring sometimes to give. me more elevation adjustment, but you can get MOA bases now to give you more long range capability.