How To Camouflage Paint Your Rifle By Greg Ballard

Great thread, and good looking paint job. I've painted several rifles/shotguns for myself and others, and would like to make a couple suggestions if that's ok.

I've found that some synthetic stocks do not like to hold Krylon very well. This is due to the mold release agent used in the material during the manufacturing process. In order to make the inexpensive type paints stick, sometimes it's necessary to coat them with a clear coat of a mold release inhibitor. This can be found at any automotive paint store and I'm sure other places as well.

Also, I like to use actual foliage from the places where I hunt as a stencil. It's amazing how well a paint job will blend in with the environment, when the camo pattern matches the foliage perfectly. I don't think the predators care, but it sure makes for a easy and inexpensive way to make the exact pattern of a Sword Fern, or a Cedar bough, Vine Maple leaf, etc. I've had people ask "who airbrushed that?" The look on their faces when I tell them that I did it with $4 can of Krylon is worth it.

Great article! Thanks for very educational forum.
 
Nice job on the AR.

A year ago i did my AR and my 243. I liked the out come so well so i went to a Dura Coar work shop and got my certification. I've since done 17 more rifles. I've found something i really enjoy doing.

Dura Coat Finishes (if done properly) stand up very well.
 
Great article, I am getting ready to do my new coyote rig this week, I am using the krylon camo paint for the first time so we will see how it goes.

I wish I could find pictures of my Savage 12, I used rustoleum "textured" sandstone for the base coat then some dark brown, then used the matte clear protectant. It lasted a long time and looked great out in the dirt dog shootin. Plus with the textured base it was easy to grip even in the rain.
 
Thanks for the informative article. One thing I find useful is to include the magazine or two or three, when applying the camo paint. Thanks again
 
Yes, Len. I have had my FFL approved and should have the license within a week or so and this would allow me to receive in guns and such in order to coat them for customers.

Nice looking work Mr. Ballard! I had a question regarding which FFL you applied for in order to maintain posession of someone elses firearm while just painting it. I've looked at ATF's website, and it looks like I need a dealers license, but I'm not sure. I've done some Krylon job's recently that my friends would like me to do to theirs. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks! gun)
 
My sniper partners and I came up with a very similar method, right down to spraying paint into a cup to get just the liquid. The only difference is we used scraps of terry cloth towel instead of a foam brush for the color overlays. It adds some texture to the pattern and softens the edges of each color change. You can overlap colors and cause them to fade in/out of each. The occasional touch-up of the wear areas is easy.

"There is no safety for honest men except by believing all possible evil of evil men." - Edmund Burke (1729-1797)
gun)
 
I have also used the terry cloths as well as a myriad of other things to get nice patterns onto the items. Krylon is good in the fact that you can repair it or just totally remove it and replace it without too much effort as it does not hang on to the surface extremely well and will not withstand chemicals such as acetone very well.

For those who have a need to change camo to better suit their immediate surroundings, such as military snipers, then rattle cans are a good solution.
Those who do not wish to get the equipment because they are only going to paint one or two rifles and those who just enjoy being creative and would like to paint their rifle themselves then Krylon is a good solution. For those who want to have a very durable and protective camo paint work put onto their rifle that will last for many years then they should look into Duracoat or Cerakote

Outside of the costs of the equipment to prep and apply the paint and more time required to get a professional looking paint job, enough Duracoat to paint your rifle is not that much more expensive than having to buy 4 cans of Krylon to get the same coverage. It is the equipment and skill in using it and the time required to get that professional looking job that makes the duracoat paint works cost a couple hundred dollars.

Shoot straight and shoot often
 
Greg,

Do you sand or "rough up" any of the surfaces after you've removed the oils? When your painting plastic type parts what to you use to prepare those surfaces? I've always wanted to give this a try but was afaid the finsh wouldn't adhear well and would end up flaking off. Outstanding paint job by the way!!

You can and should use what is called an "adhesion promoter". This product is available at wal-mart under the brand name "bulldog". It is recomended for
plastics, aluminum and stainless steel.
 
Mr. Ballard, good article. And grate work!

Not to hijack this conversation about your article but have you used the Duracoat clear, over the Kryon? Seams that everyone reading is also interested in the different paints and paint types. Seams that an epoxy clear, not necessarily Duracoat, over the Kryon would keep cost down and the finish very durable.

Regards Mike.
 
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