How to avoid/minimize Cerakote damage when torquing/loosening barrels?


Well-Known Member
Jan 5, 2004
That’s basically the question? Rosen? The lead shims? Is it better to use the wood block barrel vices?
I have read where quite a few guys use the cardboard off an empty toilet paper roll. I will be trying that once my barrel arrives.
Toilet paper roll didn’t work for me. I used lead shims and rosin but my barrel was stainless, not Cerakoted. Personally I think leather with rosin would work better to not mart it.
Best thing I ever did was get away from a wood Vice to an aluminum bushing Vice. On cerakoted barrels I use a piece of paper from an auto trader and it never slips or Mars. I just removed a stock Remington barrel that was coated that I had a 4 foot breaker bar on and it lifted my 350 pound table off the ground trying to remove the barrel. Not a Mark to be seen
I am sure it depends are having the right vise and bushings to match the contour. Breaking loose a Remington factory barrel is no fun by yourself. It is like a Olympic event. Lol


Factory installed barrel?
If so, it's a tall order.
In any case, a well fitting bushing certainly helps. It's all about contact surface area- if it spins, it's done.
E-Z custom bushings...
Piece of cardboard with a hole cut diameter of the breech cylinder.
Rifle upright, action held in a padded vise. Slide the cardboard down, tape it place around the bottom to create a seal around the barrel/cardboard.
Slide a steel or aluminum bushing down the barrel, OD to match your barrel vise and ID slightly larger than the widest part of the cylinder (if tapered).
Center it up, melt some Cerrosafe and pour it into your "mold".

Let cool, remove from barrel and slit down the middle with a bandsaw. Perfect fit, no crazy taper-turning to try to match profile on the lathe.
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