How much torque

[cjp45]

I want to bed my Savage barreled action into my pillared stock. I haven't been able to get a definitive answer as to how much torque is needed on the action screws while the bedding is setting up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jakeweb09]

I'd contact the manufacturer of the stock and ask them what torque specs they recommend. I'd assume the torque you'd want to use is the torque you're going to keep in the long run

 

[elf]

Here ya go ;

Seat Recoil Lug and Start with Front Action Screw(s)
On the model 12, I will first ensure that the recoil lug is seated securely against the stock by just lightly tightening up the front receiver screw then gently but firmly bumping the butt pad against the floor. Next I will tighten up the front two receiver screws to 30 inch-pounds starting at 20 inch-pounds and working up to the 30 inch-pounds in 5 inch-pound increments, and always tightening the front screw first and then the second screw. Once the front two receiver screws are torqued to the final torque setting, I will set the rear receiver screw to 5 inch-pounds and shoot a 5-shot group [to evaluate accuracy].

Increase Torque Incrementally on Rear Action Screw
After the group is shot and I am satisfied that I called all of the shots as good shots I will allow the rifle to cool off to about the temperature that the fist group was shot at. I will then add 5 inch-pounds to the rear receiver screw and shoot another five-shot group and allow the rifle to cool again. I repeat this process until I have tightened the rear receiver screw to 40 inch-pounds or have seen the groups get smaller and then start getting larger again. Once you have seen the groups decrease and then start to increase in size then you will have found the area of torque to work in. You can then can fine tune this to the exact inch-pound torque settings.

 

[338 dude]

I believe the OP was talking about just until the bedding Hardens not talking the actual stock to the action Dusty Stevens would know more but you want minimal pressure just to hold the action in position until everything is dry

 

[Rick Richard]

I would go snug or until you feel contact is made until the bedding is cured. That might be around 20 inch lbs as a guess.

 

[jrock]

I push the receiver down until I feel it bottom out on the pillars. Then I just snug up the screws to hold it there. its about the feel rather than at torque number. As little as possible.
when I bed the pillars and action at the same time, I torque them to final spec usually about 50-60 in*lbs before placing them in the epoxy. Then use surgical tubing or electrical tape to hold it to the stock.

 

[cjp45]

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to use the surgical tubing along with headless screws to keep the pillars and action screw holes aligned.

 

[ntsqd]

My preference is to bond the pillars into the stock first. Then relieve around them for the rest of the bedding. I know that there are guru's out there who say not to do it that way. Seems to work for me, and I do not see any advantage in doing it all at once.

 

[Scottf]

Look at some of the stuff on line. It is recommended to use a piece of rubber inner tube or electrical tape to hold it into position so your not stressing the action while the bedding compound sets up.
You will need to have screws with no heads in the action to position it while setting in the stock.

 

[redneckdan]

I use the action screws to pull it down to the stock, finger tight. Maybe 5 inch pounds if that. Then I wrap electrical tape around the action and stock to provide tension, at this point the action screws are usually loose again and I leave them that way. After 24 hours I disassemble, clean up and let it set for another week or so to fully cure. Then I torque using a procedure similar to the guy further up the thread.

 

[Rflshootr]

The whole idea behind bedding is for it to be stress free. Go to the hardware store and get the 2 longest 1/4-28 bolts you can find. Cut the heads off and de-burr. then cut the threads off to a length of 3 threads left, de-burr, put a light coat of grease on the threads and screw them into the action finger tight. Take masking tape and wrap a ring around the barrel about 1/2" back behind the for end tip until it supports the barrel and the action is level. This will also keep the barrel centered in the fore end. Do all of your masking of the lug and anywhere else you don't want epoxy to go. Apply release agent. Once everything is fitted to your liking, put the stock level in a cleaning cradle, mix the epoxy, apply it in the stock and carefully set the action while aligning the modified bolts. Press it in with hand pressure and let it set up....when set up for 6-8 hrs, carefully unscrew and remove the bolts from the bottom. Finish the job as you normally would (curing, disassembly and clean up). No hose or anything else to put any stress on the action. Make sure release agent is on the bolts and action!

 

[jrock]

Good tip about the tape on the barrel. Must under appreciated tip IMO.

I prefer the electrical tape. It will have residual pressure while I scrape the excess off. Then it has no force, only keeps everything aligned. When I cut it off after the epoxy has cured, it is almost slack.

I've put a 0.001" dial indicator at the end of the barrel and torqued down the action screws and have not seen the Dial indicator move. I choose my methods based on that. There a bit of technique to it all though.

 

[bushmotornv]

I want to bed my Savage barreled action into my pillared stock. I haven't been able to get a definitive answer as to how much torque is needed on the action screws while the bedding is setting up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

While the bedding is curing,you want just light pressure from the screws to hold the action in contact with the pillars. Do not "torque" the screws at this time. After the bedding has cured is the time to torque the screws.

 

[J E Custom]

I want to bed my Savage barreled action into my pillared stock. I haven't been able to get a definitive answer as to how much torque is needed on the action screws while the bedding is setting up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would not torque the screws at all, In fact, I made some guide screws to align the action that don't have any heads but are long enough to reach through enough to grab them with pliers to remove them before the bedding sets up rock hard.

To hold the action in the bedding I use spring clamps that don't apply to much force that could apply stress to the action during bedding. (This is called stress free bedding) and in my opinion the best way to bed an action for accuracy.

If you use the action screws or bedding screws it will/can add unwanted stress and actually flex the action a few thousandths. This will cause the action to flex/match the misshaped bedding when torqued.

J E CUSTOM