How much can I lap my rings ?

Joined
Oct 21, 2021
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11
Location
Clovis, CA
Just got a scope mounting kit. Never lapped my rings before. Mounting scopes and reloading like my father taught me was always simple, then I was introduced to this site…I Spend way to much time reading and sucking in information over the past year or so.
Mounted my scope and it was shooting wild, so I pulled out the new kit. Using Talley rings and bases on my fathers old browning Mauser action 3006.
How much can I sand off ? Is this to much ?
Will the scope work again ?
 

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Show a top down picture.

Check the orientation of the rings, front ring vs rear ring are in the right place.
I usually use the lapping bar as an arbor to locate the rings. I use the top ring caps screwed down lightly and tighten the base screw (at least one of the two on each).
Then remove the bar and lightly torque all base rings. Put the pointers back in and see if it's improved.
If not, there isn't enough hole clearance in the base screws to help.
You might run a straight edge to see if your tapped receiver screws are aligned.
The Mauser family is different from each other in a lot of ways. If you can find rings that fit or fit better, you may consider bedding the bases, (or use a rail), just to eliminate future problems with these going out of alignment.
 
Show a top down picture.

Check the orientation of the rings, front ring vs rear ring are in the right place.
I usually use the lapping bar as an arbor to locate the rings. I use the top ring caps screwed down lightly and tighten the base screw (at least one of the two on each).
Then remove the bar and lightly torque all base rings. Put the pointers back in and see if it's improved.
If not, there isn't enough hole clearance in the base screws to help.
You might run a straight edge to see if your tapped receiver screws are aligned.
The Mauser family is different from each other in a lot of ways. If you can find rings that fit or fit better, you may consider bedding the bases, (or use a rail), just to eliminate future problems with these going out of alignment.
Show a top down picture.

Check the orientation of the rings, front ring vs rear ring are in the right place.
I usually use the lapping bar as an arbor to locate the rings. I use the top ring caps screwed down lightly and tighten the base screw (at least one of the two on each).
Then remove the bar and lightly torque all base rings. Put the pointers back in and see if it's improved.
If not, there isn't enough hole clearance in the base screws to help.
You might run a straight edge to see if your tapped receiver screws are aligned.
The Mauser family is different from each other in a lot of ways. If you can find rings that fit or fit better, you may consider bedding the bases, (or use a rail), just to eliminate future problems with these going out of alignment.
Thanks I’ll try that. Here is top down photo
 

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I’d think you could lap that out or very close. Just make sure you have enough gap for proper clamping force when done. Hey your rings will be lighter! 😂
 
Misalignment problem - shims or bed 1st, lap 2nd

Old FN/Browning Mauser receivers did not have exacting exterior dimensions. Best way is to bed Tally bases with epoxy but be sure to follow instructions - not to glue bases on receiver. I like JB SteelWeld. Shims cut from aluminum pop cans sort of work but are tacky.

Burris Sig Zee rings are real nice & Warne makes FN Mauser bases, including front extension bases that will work with Burris Zee rings having eccentric plastic inserts.

Lap just enough to make ring inner contact surfaces level. Scope tubes are tough & sort of springy but don't bend them. Reversing lap bars to go flat end to end seems to work better than pointy end to end for alignment determinations.

IMG_1099.JPG

Bedding instructions - from Murphy site but will work with other bases.

www.murphyprecision.com/Page/Scope_Base_Bedding
For 2 piece bases use lap bar for ring alignment. Be sure to apply wax/release agent to receiver, screw holes, & screws - don't glue bases onto receiver or glue screws into base(s) or receiver.

A quicky solution would be aluminum pop can shims, Warne Bases & Burris Signature Zee Rings. Then center scope reticle & adjust ring inserts for optimum bore sight.
 
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I had a custom rifle that I originally put a pic rail and Burris Signature rings on. Everything was great until I decided to buy a set of Talley lightweight rings/bases. I gave the rings/bases to my gunsmith for installation after the rifle was set up with a new barrel. Well, apparently, the mounting screws holes were not exactly in line and the new mounting set-up caused the smith some real problems. The Burris insert system can resolve many issues and doesn't bend or mar your scope tube in the process. It's a great option and Burris also has the really heavy (HTR) model for the guys who like or need more rigidity.
 
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My lap job on Talley rings. In general, lap until you get at least 50 percent bearing surface. If severe misalignment, you might not get to 50 percent without a lot of material removal. Lap bottom half only.
 

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Just got a scope mounting kit. Never lapped my rings before. Mounting scopes and reloading like my father taught me was always simple, then I was introduced to this site…I Spend way to much time reading and sucking in information over the past year or so.
Mounted my scope and it was shooting wild, so I pulled out the new kit. Using Talley rings and bases on my fathers old browning Mauser action 3006.
How much can I sand off ? Is this to much ?
Will the scope work again ?
With 220 grit compound it will not take long to remove lots of material from the aluminum rings. I would go ahead and try before buying other rings. Just stop before too far and the recheck alignment. Then lap again; then recheck. A bit of a hassle as you have to clean between rechecking. You just might be able to get it done with those rings; won't know until you try.
 
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