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How accurate should a Ruger M77 ii in .270 be?

qwerty11

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Jul 3, 2017
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What kind of accuracy should I expect out of this gun. The first thing I noticed is the trigger is terrible. Any tips on improving it? Also, any ideas on what factory ammo this gun might like?
 
My dad has the same gun in 30-06. Once the trigger was worked down to 2.5 pounds it shot 1" at 100 yards with Barnes Vortex 168 grain.
 
What kind of accuracy should I expect out of this gun. The first thing I noticed is the trigger is terrible. Any tips on improving it? Also, any ideas on what factory ammo this gun might like?

I just finished working a load for a buddies that drew a sheep tag. His shot 140 Acubonds @ .020 off and H4831 well for a factory gun, right at 1/2 inch.

His trigger must have had work, it wasn't horrible.
 
What year is the rifle, got any pictures of it, so we can determine if it's a good model or not... Some of the older models were not necessarily known for their accuracy.

Handloading for it will be your best bet, no matter what model it is. Factory rifles are not necessarily coinciding with particular brands of factory ammo. It's usually a complete crap-shoot, and you will have to just try what you can till you find what works best. This can be a very expensive and time-consuming process. Most people who are gunning for the most accuracy they can, will handload for their rifle.
 
What year is the rifle, got any pictures of it, so we can determine if it's a good model or not... Some of the older models were not necessarily known for their accuracy.

Handloading for it will be your best bet, no matter what model it is. Factory rifles are not necessarily coinciding with particular brands of factory ammo. It's usually a complete crap-shoot, and you will have to just try what you can till you find what works best. This can be a very expensive and time-consuming process. Most people who are gunning for the most accuracy they can, will handload for their rifle.

Its an early 2000s stainless/composite light weight model.
 
Its an early 2000s stainless/composite light weight model.

Exact same rifle as the one I just finished with.

I tried 140 Partitions to begin with, it just shot them so so. The attached pic is 140 Accubonds after load work up to zero the scope. Shot the first 2, adjusted up and right, shot 2 more, adjusted up right again. Shot the 5th and called it good. He wanted it 2" high at 100.
 

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11, you should get <MOA, the 77 IIs I've seen shoot better than the Tang models. Ruger triggers are still heavy, the Timney or a really good triggersmith is the only cure. If the stock is plastic, that's another fix needed, if it's walnut or carbon fiber bed it. The "boat paddle" stock like Mud has are collector items. I really like shooting .270's since I found a great load for them. Good luck
 
I put a Rifle Basix trigger in mine and love it. Feels just as good if not better than the Timneys at a much lower cost. That being said a 130gr bullet of your choice over 54-55gr of IMR or H4350 should give very good results.
 
Your's is just the newer version of the Ultralight All-weather model that I posted a picture of above. They changed the stocks, but kept the rest of the rifle the same.
 
I've had a number of Ruger mark IIs.... but no 270s.
Most of them shot moa or better with no extra work other than free floating the barrel.
The best is a 7mm Mag which consistently shoots 1/2 to 3/4 MOA with 150 gr ballistic tips.
 
I have the same rifle just blued and wood stock. Mine likes 130 & 140 grain accubonds either the nosler trophy line or the Winchester black box for the 140's and both are sub moa. Also shot the 130 Berger HSM loads never for groups but I could hit a phone book at 300 yards. I ordered a wolfe (sp?) gun spring for mine... I think it was like $8 shipped and it made a huge improvement to my trigger. don't have a scale to see what it was at but its noticeable and super easy to do.
 
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