The original A-bolt only has "one" bottom screw that torques the action to the stock. and it is glass bedded at the factory to insure the recoil lug is flat against the stock lug stop. The rear action screw actually screws into the trigger mechanism and if you put much torque on it the trigger will start locking up. So bedding will not help.
The barrel is also free floated from the factory with ample room to spare. Always good to verify though. If you are having general accuracy issues from a cool bore, one thing that can help an A-bolt is to actually but something between the barrel and stock forearm that takes to free float away. This just seems to help on pencil barrels sometimes. Problem with this though is that the stringing will get worse as the barrel gets hot.
Long thin Browning barrels are known to "walk" as they heat up. They are not made for high volume shooting. They are made for general carry hunting. I think it would be fine for some wood chucks or coyote hunting as the barrel could probably cool between shots, but prairie dogs, probably not.
The biggest pain can be getting them sighted in with a cold bore. Cause if not careful, ,during a sight in session, you may get it zeroed with a fairly warm bore and the POI will change significantly when the time comes for a cold bore hunting shot.
Are you reloading or using factory ammo?
