After re-barrel :: 2 shots close together and 1 shot further out

ShtrRdy

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Is it possible for a new barrel to be the cause of 2 shots being VERY close together and a third shot being 1/2" to 3/4" apart? The shot that is "out" can be the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd shot.

This is on a Tikka T3 Varmint in 22-250 Rem. Using the original, factory stock. It use to shoot amazingly well.
Replaced the barrel with a Rem Varmint contour, 1:12 twist. Had to reduce the breach end to 1.150" to better match Tikka action.
I was hoping to use close to the same load that worked well in the original barrel so I had the gunsmith cut the finished length to match original barrel.

Things I've tried:
1. Different charge weights (OCW type of test)
2. Different seating depth of bullet
3. Open up barrel channel a little more.
4. Inspect bedding area and then overall stock for any crack.
5. Use a different, known good, scope
6. Use a different scope mount, (to remove the rail). Used the Tikka Optiloc rings and another different scope.
7. Try a different bullet

Have any of you seen a new barrel be the cause of such behavior?

Thanks -- Todd
 

Buster Hemlock

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Is it possible for a new barrel to be the cause of 2 shots being VERY close together and a third shot being 1/2" to 3/4" apart? The shot that is "out" can be the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd shot.

This is on a Tikka T3 Varmint in 22-250 Rem. Using the original, factory stock. It use to shoot amazingly well.
Replaced the barrel with a Rem Varmint contour, 1:12 twist. Had to reduce the breach end to 1.150" to better match Tikka action.
I was hoping to use close to the same load that worked well in the original barrel so I had the gunsmith cut the finished length to match original barrel.

Things I've tried:
1. Different charge weights (OCW type of test)
2. Different seating depth of bullet
3. Open up barrel channel a little more.
4. Inspect bedding area and then overall stock for any crack.
5. Use a different, known good, scope
6. Use a different scope mount, (to remove the rail). Used the Tikka Optiloc rings and another different scope.
7. Try a different bullet

Have any of you seen a new barrel be the cause of such behavior?

Thanks -- Todd
Sounds like you have checked the obvious stuff. When I have had this happen there has been a contact point between the stock and barrel, it was a light contour barrel that was heating up or mirage was coming off the barrel and skewing my point of aim for the third shot or something scope or mount related was loose.
 

sedancowboy

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Have you kept shooting it to see if there are two distinct groups? Two groups almost always means something is shifting back and forth. Given all that you have done I would bed the action and if a heavy varmint barrel I would also bed about 2 inches in front of the recoil lug. Then make sure the barrel is free floated. While at it I would install pillars as well. Making sure the action screws are centered and torqued.
 

mongo4567

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To me, you are saying that the barrel doesn't shoot to your expectations. You've eliminated a lot of the variables. I had a few with similar results.

I have a model seven in 300 blk that I gave up on. Tried lots of bullets and powders...can't get anything to shoot like the hornady 110 factory load (.75 moa). I did get very close with just over 1 moa with a 110 hornady and a 150 speer. There was always a flier. I did fix a wandering zero by relieving barrel; it was messing with my results. It is a hunting gun and just won't really shoot the 125grn nosler want at a velocity I want.

I had a 7 twist 18" AR in 5.56 and I couldn't get any heavy bullet (60grn to 77grn) to shoot better than 1.25 moa. It would put any 55grn in one hole. It just ****ed me off so I replaced the barrel. Now it shoots a nosler 70 in about .33 moa.
 

JMW67

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just because its on the same action and stock it does not mean this barrel likes the bullet, powder, primer the original liked once you are sure its not the bedding, action screws scope mounting hardware or scope its self, its time to look at changing bullet or powder
 
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ShtrRdy

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Was the break in done in a correct manner also try shooting two 5 shot groups allowing plenty time for cooling between shots and between groups and post some pics if possible

So, after trying another bullet I dropped off the rifle with the gunsmith. Let him look it over to see if he notices anything. I also called the barrel maker and the person I talked to thought it should shoot those bullets better than what I'm getting. If the gunsmith doesn't find anything I'll be sending the barrel back for evaluation.
 

cahunter805

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Sounds like you have checked most the obvious things.
Have you tried another powder?
What bullet/powder combo are you shooting?
New brass? Fired brass FL sized?
 

ShtrRdy

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Sounds like you have checked most the obvious things.
Have you tried another powder?
What bullet/powder combo are you shooting?
New brass? Fired brass FL sized?

I'm actually asking if anyone has experienced the cause of a 2-shots-in/1-shot-out pattern as being the barrel. But I'll go ahead and post the components I'm using.

Lapua brass (1x fired) - full length sized - mandrel to expand neck
Sierra 55 gr Blitzking
CCI Lg Rifle primer
Varget
0.015" off the lands
 

lancetkenyon

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Arizona
I have, a few times. Usually a bullet change is all it takes. Sometimes a powder change too. NABLRs seem to do it every time for me.
Had a .22-250 for two years that just shot "OK". But, with 2 years of messing with it, I finally found the load. It went from a 1" gun, to a 1/4" gun finally. And it was with the 53 SMK over H414.
 

ShtrRdy

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Is it always the 3rd shot out?

It can be any of the three shots. And it seems to be in any direction.

Here's a picture of shot placement on graph paper. The grids represent 1/16" spacing. Groups A and B were shot one day and groups C and D were shot about a week later. Notice how 8 of the 12 shots were within about 5/16".
 

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