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- Thread starter red dawg
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Well Beeman, I have h 1000 and its looking like my gun is not going to work with rl 25 so I may try it; I just got back from the range and tested the 3 most accurate groups from yesterday and tested each one with 210 primers as well as 215's and my gun walked from left to right again but not as bad as before only .5in but my 3 shot groups were from .75 in at 100 to 1.25in at 100yds and my next step will be h 1000! Do you use a mag primer with your load?
I use Federal 210 primers. With H1000 and 115 Bergers I get 3350 fps and it is extremely accurate. Another guy I know does use R25 in his but it is a Ackley again. Can't hurt to try the H1000 if you have some. Mine likes the 115 Berger 15 thou off the lands.
Thanks Beeman , I will start a ladder test from 55grns to 58grns and maybe more depending on accuracy I was told my other load was exceeding reload manuals at 51 grains of 4350 and shouldnt go above the max load in the nosler book of 49 gut higher I went the tighter the groups got with no signs of tight bolt or primer problems. I sure thank you for your reply's and helpfullness I hope you have a joyfull christmas season.
All sorts of things can cause shot stringing in all directions shooting from a bench. They're all caused by inconsistent rifle positions relative to the shooter as well as how he fires it:
Left or right; angle of bore axis to the shooter's mass. For right handers, the more the angle, the more to the right bullets go.
Left or right: if trigger finger's not in far enough on the trigger lever. When the sear releases, the force of the finger on the trigger transfers to the rifle moving it to the left. If in too far, the force pulls the rifle to the right. There should be no tiny jump of the rifle to either side; can be seen with high power scopes and keeping your eye open while dry firing.
Up or down: butt plate too high on the shoulder, shots go low; too low in the shoulder, shots go high.
Up or down: different pressure on the stock fore end on what it's resting on. Gets worse if there's a bedding pad in the fore end touching the barrel.
Any direction: flicking your finger forward coupled with other body movements as you feel the trigger release the sear. Most folks that do it are not aware of it. Most common cause of bad shots with very accurate rifles and ammo. Keep your trigger finger full back at it stop until you stop moving from recoil. Otherwise, the motion causes the rifle to move a bit while the bullet's going through the barrel.
Most right handed people shoot centerfire rifles a bit to the right when they're rested on something atop a bench compared to zeros obtained shooting without a rest from standing, sitting, kneeling or prone with or without a sling.
The bore axis at the muzzle points to a place on the target above the aiming point an amount equal to bullet drop plus sight height above bore only when the bullet exits the muzzle. When the firing pin smacks the primer and fires it, the bore axis points somewhere else. It moves to that point while the bullet goes down the barrel.
Left or right; angle of bore axis to the shooter's mass. For right handers, the more the angle, the more to the right bullets go.
Left or right: if trigger finger's not in far enough on the trigger lever. When the sear releases, the force of the finger on the trigger transfers to the rifle moving it to the left. If in too far, the force pulls the rifle to the right. There should be no tiny jump of the rifle to either side; can be seen with high power scopes and keeping your eye open while dry firing.
Up or down: butt plate too high on the shoulder, shots go low; too low in the shoulder, shots go high.
Up or down: different pressure on the stock fore end on what it's resting on. Gets worse if there's a bedding pad in the fore end touching the barrel.
Any direction: flicking your finger forward coupled with other body movements as you feel the trigger release the sear. Most folks that do it are not aware of it. Most common cause of bad shots with very accurate rifles and ammo. Keep your trigger finger full back at it stop until you stop moving from recoil. Otherwise, the motion causes the rifle to move a bit while the bullet's going through the barrel.
Most right handed people shoot centerfire rifles a bit to the right when they're rested on something atop a bench compared to zeros obtained shooting without a rest from standing, sitting, kneeling or prone with or without a sling.
The bore axis at the muzzle points to a place on the target above the aiming point an amount equal to bullet drop plus sight height above bore only when the bullet exits the muzzle. When the firing pin smacks the primer and fires it, the bore axis points somewhere else. It moves to that point while the bullet goes down the barrel.
I think Bart nailed it. The only thing I would add is that it logcally follows from his post that if you are going to hunt from prone, then zero that way.
Also, the "follow through" he is referring to when he said to hold the trigger back until everything stops moving refers not just to your trigger finger, but entire body. Stay on the rifle, trigger back, and reset when you see the bullet impact. The conscious act of keeping the trigger back will help keep the rest of your body and shooting position in " follow through" as well. Incdentally This is especially critical when firing semi-autos, with their increased lock time and more complex recoil and action cycling forces.
Consider a stock pack of some kind, or other good cheekrest . I think the more comfortable the cheekweld, the more consistent the cheek pressure will be as you will be more relaxed.
Also, the "follow through" he is referring to when he said to hold the trigger back until everything stops moving refers not just to your trigger finger, but entire body. Stay on the rifle, trigger back, and reset when you see the bullet impact. The conscious act of keeping the trigger back will help keep the rest of your body and shooting position in " follow through" as well. Incdentally This is especially critical when firing semi-autos, with their increased lock time and more complex recoil and action cycling forces.
Consider a stock pack of some kind, or other good cheekrest . I think the more comfortable the cheekweld, the more consistent the cheek pressure will be as you will be more relaxed.
Hey guy's , just got back from the range of testing h-1000 and still having the first cold bore shot being .5 to the left of bulls eye, I started with 55 grns and worked up to 58 grns with the worst group of 1.28 inches at 56grns and the best being .721 at 58grns This is the 36th shot with a copper coated bullet should I remove the copper and fire the most accurate groups with a fully cleaned bore? or is this something else ? or adjust the scope 2 clicks right on 1st cold bore shot and see if the gun walks again? it keeps a bulls eye after 1st 2 shots. I have worked loads up on many guns before from the same bench and same bags and have never had this issue before. I have reloaded for 27 years and I'm out of reasons
What kind of barrel? I only clean my Krieger every 50-70 rounds. Probably don't even need to clean then, but I do. No problem with copper in my barrel. All my barrels from Krieger, Brux and Hart don't have problems with copper. Not sure why your first one is half inch off. How is the speed with H1000? Good ES?
Beeman, I dont have a chrony but I use a stainless factory varmint 26in savage that shoots very well with from 85 grain nosler, to 100grn sierra pro hunter to 115 bergers with all sorts of powder variations with no trouble till now, my vertical spread with any powder I have used is less than .25 inches is just this last experiances from rl 22 rl 25 to h 1000 is horizontal from 1.5 to .5 inches on 1st shot only! I shot today as I usally do like my life depended on the one shot and all powders have been 1st shot left till I get 2 or more then its zero every time
