hitting way high

do yourself a favor quit trying to sight this in at a 100yrds or less. pace your self off a target at 300yrds. get a 4x8 sheet of plywood and set it up at the 300yrd mark. paint yourself a 3in circle for an aiming point. then use the same method sidecar explained. when you set up to shoot use a shooting bag to shoot from. do not use long shooting sessions or you will tire yourself then you will begin creating other problems. good luck.

If he cannot get anywhere near zeroed at 100, how is moving farther out gonna help?

Without changing anything from my last shooting session except the caliber to .338, bullet to a 300 grain SMk, and velocity to 2700 fps; if he is 30" high at 100 then he is 78" high at 300 and still 17" high at 1000 yards. His zero would be around 1035 where I'm at. If that is the closest he can zero, how is this gonna help anything?
 

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Is your PST a second hand scope or brand new from Vortex?

Any chance the zero stop shims are installed incorrectly limiting the range on your downward travel?

The setup you described should be able to be zeroed at 100 yards.
 
The first scope was just a regular viper 6.5-20 so no zero stop shims. It was the one where the turret Keeps spinning but the retical quits moving. The second scope i tried was a hs-t 4-16 I use on my 6.5x47 and it works great. I remove the zero stop shims and still had same problem. Picture is with the 4-16x44.
 

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Ok. Good to know. And a good move putting the other scope on there to try an narrow down the problem. Seems like the problem might be on the gun side of things.

Did you ever get to check where it shot with the brake off?

Even though it's shooting high @100 will it group decently?

The only thing I can think of at this point would be that the rail might be more than a 20moa cant. If you have a way to eliminate that next I would give that a shot.

Edit:

Just read back through the post and saw where you listed the heights on the rail. I assumed this was somewhere close to the mount holes, which I guessed to be about 6.5 inches apart on the action. Running the math on that gives a 20.097 moa rail. So I guess my idea about that being the culprit was wrong.

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mmk, your process of elimination has left only a few options. I suspect the barrel is installed crocked in the receiver. This a common problem with production rifles. It's easy to confirm this problem when the impacts are left or right. I simply place a metal straight edge across the receiver and measure the distance to the barrel 8-12" down the barrel. I do that measurement on the left and right side, and then calculate the difference.

The recoil lug makes this measurement difficult for vertical misalignments. You can try to do a measurement off the top of the receiver (with the rail removed) to the center of the bore. Do that measurement at two locations down the barrel with a 36" aluminum yard stick.

If the rifle shoots tight groups, I would keep it and just change out the rail. The aluminum rail on that model rifle is pretty cheap. I would replace it with a steel one.

It's remotely possible that the bullet is impacting the brake, or there is asymmetry in the brake vents. Pull the brake and inspect the interior carefully. Then shoot the rifle without the brake and check for a large change in POI.

A 338 LM without a brake will not hurt you if you use some extra padding. I've shot a 340 Wby without a brake prone and sitting. The 340 Wby MV is only about 100 fps slower than a 338 LM. Just shove a folded pair of leather work gloves between the buttstock and your shoulder, and you will be fine.
 
Could it be that there's 20 MOA or more built into the rings ? Try switching the Rings front to back
 
Barrel Is free floated, measured rings and there the same height. I couldn't see where anything was hitting the muzzle break. I called savage and they are taking it back free of charge and fixing it hopefully. If not I guess I'm back where I started and ill have my gunsmith look at it. This site is pretty cool. Thank you guys for all the help.
 
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