Help a Gal new to reloading and LR shooting

[Captain1967]

Congrats on your hunt.

I was able to take a Black Grey Wolf in area 3 in the wilderness area southwest of Cody, WY.

Premium ammunition is not cheap by any means.
Your initial investment will cost some $$$ but you will have control of your loads and will get the best accuracy.

I would start out with a single stage press first. More accurate than most progressives.
I use my progressive press mainly for pistol reloading and necking down in stages wildcat cartridges like the 7mm-300WM and 6.5-06.

This is what I have and use:

RCBS Rockchucker single stage press(you can purchase this as a kit) Black Friday is coming up might see some good deals.

Hornady lock-in-load auto progressive press (look for sales). Got mine for $319.00 Black Friday of course a few years ago.

RCBS Chargemaster lite (works very well it was on sale at Natchez for $199.99) also have a mechanical RCBS 5-0-5 scale and separate digital scale.

Dandy 2 speed electric powder trickler (for precise powder charges) or an empty 270 case works well

Hornady bullet comparator and insert set

I shoot a lot of long range (hunting and steel) so I prefer
Redding competition or match dies (type "s" neck bushing and some full length) ($$$)
But have also use RCBS and Hornady dies
For pistol dies I use RCBS. Lee. Hornady
Decapping dies (Redding)

I have both a dry tumbler and wet tumbler (prefer wet)

RCBS hand priming tools. (2 one set up for large primers and one for small primers)

RCBS Trim Pro

Lyman case prep station

Annealeez case Annealer

Calipers (dial and digital)

Hornady or Dillon case lube spray

Reloading manuals. (Berger. Sierra. Hornady. Nosler) The annual Hodgdon reloading magazine.

MTM case guard loading trays (like these the best - cartridges don't seem tip over very easy)

I've probably forgot some things and I have upgraded over the last couple of years.

Good luck and Have fun.
Congrats again on a successful hunt.

 

[Zymurgist]

When I started out reloading I had a mentor that was a pretty accomplished reloader. He helped me to create some pretty accurate loads right out of the gate while using his bench and equipment. Try to find opportunities to use various reloading tools before you plunk down your hard earned cash.

 

[Weaselthis]

"Huskers1:
Annealeez case Annealer

Franko21:
6. Create a reloading work flow chart. The goal is to create a process that makes it as hard to screw up as possible. You are now playing with things that go boom, your reloading life needs to revolve around safety."

WEALTH of info, here Victoria. I read your write up post about the hunt. Good job on the hunt, the pix, and the follow up. Thanks for posting that an allowing some of us to live vicariously thru your efforts. Commendable, madam.

I would reiterate and wholly agree w/ all the previous advice and especially the two above. Not stealing their thunder....I have an Annealeez, love it and it's less expensive than most.I have used a flow chart list for over 37 years, first hand written on a yellow note pad, now on a Excel spreadsheet. Keeps me from forgetting what stage of reloading I'm on!

i didn't see it mentioned, but I recommend the Giraud trimmer. Pricey, but worth it to me. With hunting and LR competition matches, I am fortunate enough to shoot 1000-1500 rounds a year. This trimmer not only trims, but chamfers the necks inside and out at the same time. Huge time saver for me. Might be something for you to consider long term.

I hope to see many more of your hunt AAR's! (Means YOU are getting to hunt and I'm still alive to see the pix!), Good luck to ya!

 

[Clyde M]

I purchased my first press in 1967 it was a used RCBS A-2, since I have acquired 12 more presses from Dillon 1050's down. I would start off with a CO-AX press, loads the bullets very straight, no need for a bunch of shell holders, they must be good the AMU at Fort Benning loads all their long range rifle ammo on them. Check out One Zero Innovations for a scale and powder thrower, expensive but a one time purchase. Redding and RCBS make great dies. You can never have to many loading manuals new and old one's. There are a lot of books, some of the old timers like Ken Waters Pet Loads is great to have. Definitely print out a couple of powder burn rate charts, never shoot someone's reloads unless you trust them! Remember no two rifles are the same, do not expect to get the same results as someone else, they are good starting points. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[RetiredSniper]

Ok, so please forgive my newness and lack of knowledge. I have been lurking on this site for a long time and I have enjoyed gleaning information from so many of you. Long time waterfowler here, turned into a rifle hunter the last few years. I just finished an amazing backcountry elk hunt in the Washakie Wilderness in Wyoming that took everything I had. I was lucky enough to tag a 6x6 at 440 yards with a customized Tikka T3 in 270 WSM using a 150 grain ABLR. Amazing hunt.. and has me pining for more.

So when I got home, I ordered a GA Precision 6.5 SAUM. I've shot one a few times and loved it. I intend to reload the ammo, but I am a total novice. I have reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds of shotgun, but this rifle stuff is completely different. I want to make sure I buy the right reloading gear off the bat, so I am not having to buy again down the road. Any recommendations on a reloading press and the associated accoutrements are much appreciated. I figure many of you have determined what works and what doesn't at this point. So please, share a list of Gear I need to purchase. This will be my winter project until my rifle arrives in early spring. I appreciate it! Best, V

P.S. Photos are from my most recent elk hunt! Thanks for looking and any advice you can give.
View attachment 155294 View attachment 155290 View attachment 155291 View attachment 155292

Ok, so please forgive my newness and lack of knowledge. I have been lurking on this site for a long time and I have enjoyed gleaning information from so many of you. Long time waterfowler here, turned into a rifle hunter the last few years. I just finished an amazing backcountry elk hunt in the Washakie Wilderness in Wyoming that took everything I had. I was lucky enough to tag a 6x6 at 440 yards with a customized Tikka T3 in 270 WSM using a 150 grain ABLR. Amazing hunt.. and has me pining for more.

So when I got home, I ordered a GA Precision 6.5 SAUM. I've shot one a few times and loved it. I intend to reload the ammo, but I am a total novice. I have reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds of shotgun, but this rifle stuff is completely different. I want to make sure I buy the right reloading gear off the bat, so I am not having to buy again down the road. Any recommendations on a reloading press and the associated accoutrements are much appreciated. I figure many of you have determined what works and what doesn't at this point. So please, share a list of Gear I need to purchase. This will be my winter project until my rifle arrives in early spring. I appreciate it! Best, V

P.S. Photos are from my most recent elk hunt! Thanks for looking and any advice you can give.
View attachment 155294 View attachment 155290 View attachment 155291 View attachment 155292

Beautiful country up there! First off, calm down. I think we can all help you with getting into what we call METALLIC RELOADING. I have been reloading since the mid 70's. I live in northern COOS County New Hampshire. I have had a old LYMAN reloading single stage press since the 1970's. And it still works just fine. I still use it all the time. All you need is that and it takes some time to duplicate your loads as you have been using in factory ammo. You will need powder and the appropriate primers as well as the right weight bullet. I have not loaded for this GA Precision 6.5 SAUM. I mainly load in a large game caliber for 308 and 35 Remington. Most factory loaded bullets have the velocities on the back of the box. If not you can contact them for velocities. Then look at powder charges for your particular caliber and find an appropriate powder that will give you the same velocity for the factory load so you don't have to buy the factory load. You may have to adjust your sights or scope to the new round you are producing yourself but it's less expensive than buying factory ammo. On another note, save all your brass from the fired rounds. they can all be reloaded many times but inspect them when reloading to see if there are any cracks or deformation like bulges. If you can't get them out with the reloading dies then they are trash.
I wish I could be there with you to guide you through thi as I have many reloader newbys here in New Hampshire. Just stay on this blog and I am sure you will get plenty of help!!!

 

[RetiredSniper]

EVERYBODY! Help this person just starting out in metallic reloading! She has some experience in shotgun reloading and is moving forward to metallic reloading!

 

[Clyde M]

Beautiful country up there! First off, calm down. I think we can all help you with getting into what we call METALLIC RELOADING. I have been reloading since the mid 70's. I live in northern COOS County New Hampshire. I have had a old LYMAN reloading single stage press since the 1970's. And it still works just fine. I still use it all the time. All you need is that and it takes some time to duplicate your loads as you have been using in factory ammo. You will need powder and the appropriate primers as well as the right weight bullet. I have not loaded for this GA Precision 6.5 SAUM. I mainly load in a large game caliber for 308 and 35 Remington. Most factory loaded bullets have the velocities on the back of the box. If not you can contact them for velocities. Then look at powder charges for your particular caliber and find an appropriate powder that will give you the same velocity for the factory load so you don't have to buy the factory load. You may have to adjust your sights or scope to the new round you are producing yourself but it's less expensive than buying factory ammo. On another note, save all your brass from the fired rounds. they can all be reloaded many times but inspect them when reloading to see if there are any cracks or deformation like bulges. If you can't get them out with the reloading dies then they are trash.
I wish I could be there with you to guide you through thi as I have many reloader newbys here in New Hampshire. Just stay on this blog and I am sure you will get plenty of help!!!

I lived most of my life in NH heading to West Milan to hunt with a friend next month, been in SC since 2006.

 

[RetiredSniper]

I lived most of my life in NH heading to West Milan to hunt with a friend next month, been in SC since 2006.

YEA! WELL! Come on home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[RetiredSniper]

View attachment 155419 Congrats on your hunt.

I was able to take a Black Grey Wolf in area 3 in the wilderness area southwest of Cody, WY.

Premium ammunition is not cheap by any means.
Your initial investment will cost some $$$ but you will have control of your loads and will get the best accuracy.

I would start out with a single stage press first. More accurate than most progressives.
I use my progressive press mainly for pistol reloading and necking down in stages wildcat cartridges like the 7mm-300WM and 6.5-06.

This is what I have and use:

RCBS Rockchucker single stage press(you can purchase this as a kit) Black Friday is coming up might see some good deals.

Hornady lock-in-load auto progressive press (look for sales). Got mine for $319.00 Black Friday of course a few years ago.

RCBS Chargemaster lite (works very well it was on sale at Natchez for $199.99) also have a mechanical RCBS 5-0-5 scale and separate digital scale.

Dandy 2 speed electric powder trickler (for precise powder charges) or an empty 270 case works well

Hornady bullet comparator and insert set

I shoot a lot of long range (hunting and steel) so I prefer
Redding competition or match dies (type "s" neck bushing and some full length) ($$$)
But have also use RCBS and Hornady dies
For pistol dies I use RCBS. Lee. Hornady
Decapping dies (Redding)

I have both a dry tumbler and wet tumbler (prefer wet)

RCBS hand priming tools. (2 one set up for large primers and one for small primers)

RCBS Trim Pro

Lyman case prep station

Annealeez case Annealer

Calipers (dial and digital)

Hornady or Dillon case lube spray

Reloading manuals. (Berger. Sierra. Hornady. Nosler) The annual Hodgdon reloading magazine.

MTM case guard loading trays (like these the best - cartridges don't seem tip over very easy)

I've probably forgot some things and I have upgraded over the last couple of years.

Good luck and Have fun.
Congrats again on a successful hunt.

I use th single stage press for everything! 9 mm through 308 and 35 Remington. Yes, I'm retired and have the time!!! I HOPE!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Marine24]

Another plug for the Redding T7. I like the fact that I don't need to swap dies and can keep the dies in the turret (checking that at each reloading session). I don't use a powder drop in the press, but measure each individually. That is just my preference. I also deprime and prime by hand because I find it therapeutic.

T7 gives me all the precision of a single stage press with some of the advantages of a progressive.

 

[Hcollier]

I like Clyde M's most recent advise as to the Forster Coax press. I started out about 30 yrs ago with a RCBS Rockchucker. Using the different shell holders is a nuisance. Pulled the rim off more than one case and then had to extract the brass from the die. Another nuisance. 17 Rem rounds are especially bad for pulling off rims. I can hear the members here saying, lube the case better. I doubt there's anybody on this website that uses shell holders that have not had a stuck case. Never had one with the universal jaws on a Coax press. I sold the Rockchucker and bought a Forster Coax press. That's when they were $182 new. They are about double that price now. You won't find used ones on ebay or other second hand websites. Best decision I made for reloading. One of the best single stage presses made. Will last a life time.
Learning to reload quality ammo is a life time, enjoyable experience. If you know someone who is good at reloading (and won't talk your arm off) that's the best help you can find. As others mentioned, YouTube and other videos are a really good help and many geared to specific calibers and equipment. I recommend the Hornady Loc N Load head space and cartridge overall length gauges. They're not expensive and they work.
So many other options for dies, digital scales and electronic powder scales, you'll just have to watch some videos to decide on some of the stuff. Lee dies are inexpensive but I've found them to be of very good quality. More precise dies are of course more money. I have used about every mfg. die made. They all produce ammo.
I have an old PACT digital scale and powder dispenser that has worked well for me for the last 20 years. They were one of the first to come out with a digital scale and later an add on dispenser.
Reloading manuals are a must. Most recent one I have is a Berger manual. Very good reading and great insight on Ballastic Coefficient figures I've seen. I have all the other manuals that I have accumulated over the years.
Best to your start up and pay attention to what you're doing. It isn't difficult, but when messing with things that can explode, alertness and being attentive to what you're doing is a necessity.
And great pix on your hunt. Were those from a separate camera or your cell phone? Cell phone cameras continue to improve and are amazing in the pix quality they can produce.

 

[Wolf76]

Reloading manuals, get several. Nosler & Sierra are good ones.
Also, check out the Sierra website. They go through the various steps of the process and explain it. Also,

Single Stage Press: RCBS & Redding make good ones. I have the RCBS press and have been happy with it. I have read good things about the Hornady press, but have no experience with it. There are others, but not sure one is really better than the other at making precision rifle ammo.

Dies: I use Full Length (FL) sizing dies. I use Redding dies and have been happy with them. RCBS and Hornady are other choices.

Redding Competition Shell Holders: These allow you to use FL sizing dies and not over size the brass. Google Jeff Brozovich (Broz) and he has some youtube videos explaining these. He has other good videos on reloading that are really good.

Redding Competition Seating Die: This is the bullet seating die that allows precise seating depth and precision adjustments. Also, this die helps keep the bullet aligned for proper seating. Fairly expensive, but I think it is worth it.

Powder Scale: There are digital / automatic scales that work well. I use an 'old school' RCBS balance beam scale. The beam scale is slower and more tedious, but I think it is a little more precise.

Brass Cleaning: I use a dry tumbler with treated corn cobb media. Many options here.

Depriming Brass: I use a Lyman depriming die. I treat this as a separate step.

Brass Lube: I use the RCBS lube pad. This takes a little practice. Too much lube or lube on the shoulder area, and you will crush some brass. Some like the spray on lube and it seems to work well for them.

Brass Lube for inside of neck: I use the Imperial Graphite lube. This allows the mouth sizing tool to slide easily through the inside of the case neck / mouth.

Hornady Lock n Load Head Space Gauge: This allows you to measure your brass from the base to the datum line on the shoulder. This is for headspace clearance. There are youtube videos that explain the purpose and instructions clearly.

Hornady Lock n Load Bullet Comparator: This is used for measuring Cartridge Base To Ogive (CBTO). This is the key measurement for bullet seating. Critical factor in load development.

Digital Caliper: Many options here. You can get them from Home Depot or Amazon, or you can get one from one of the reloading suppliers. Not sure one is better than the other.

Brass Trimming: I use an RCBS trimmer, the one with the manual hand crank. It is like a really small lathe. All my brass go through this step.

Priming: I use the RCBS priming tool. There are many option for this.

This should get you started. I recommend reading and watching many videos of how others do it and understand why each step is important. There are many different ways to reload rifle ammo, so you will need to decide what is best for you, this is where understanding what each step is accomplishing and why (or why not) it is important for you.

Hope this helps & Good Luck

Amazing list. Only thing to add is a chronograph.
I'd take Forster dies over Redding, but those are 1 and 2 in my book. Also I avoid rcbs dies because never had good concentricity with 3 different cartridges. Basically with dies (like optics) you get what you pay for.

 

[Mram10us]

I agree with the mentor idea. Helps to see. YouTube vids can be a big help too. Rcbs Rockchucker kits are a good start.

 

[Rflshootr]

Would you mind if I asked what state you live in?