Having hell with my new 300win

[DMP25-06]

You might try purchasing some "TUBB - Final Finish Bullets" for Fire-Lapping the barrel .

I have a Remington Sendero ( 1st generation ) in 7mm Rem Mag that did not shoot accurately until i used the TUBB - Final Finish Bullets to fire- lap the barrel , and it went from 2"+ down to .5 moa .
They might be worth a try .

 

[Buckleman]

+2 on the Tubbs

 

[pony doctor]

10/2020 production date 700 300win sps.
I've tried 165nbt, 168ablr, 180sgk, 180fed fusion, 155 (I think they are nos match they shot best). Have tried doing 3 shot ladder/ group test with 7828, 4831, 4451, re26.
I just floated the stock and changed out the new Burris veracity to make sure it's not the scope.
Everything is tourqed to spec.

anyone have recommendations for bullet to try. I'm going to run hammer bullets but want to try to get it to group before I start sending 1.25 pills down the pipe. Best group is 155 like 1.5moa. the rest is 2.5-3moa

Try 175 gr Berger VLD Hunting bullet, we used 81 gn H1000 and COAL 3.60 (3074 fps)

 

[manitou]

Place two cloves of garlic under your bed during a full moon night. At midnight, light a candle and hold your hand over the flame until you can no longer take the pain. Scream in anguish, put a bandaid on it and go to bed. The next morning... nothing will happen, but it got your mind off the gun for a night!

Sorry, but after getting inundated with a zillion suggestions I thought you could use a little humor.

 

[1mechanic]

Figured inch lbs was a given.

Yes I did too but with the newbies out there we gotta be careful not to misinform.

 

[Swiftkill]

Depending on your bedding, 25-45 in lb are a good bet.
What type of rest are you using? Either use a front rest with a forearm stop for consistency or use a bipod like you are hunting from the field. If your front pressure is not consistent you can't test loads effectively. And you can't free recoil....almost but not. You Have to pull the gun into your shoulder with about 3-5 pounds of pressure, TBD.
You should check your free floated barrel when the gun is set up for shooting, make sure the forearm is not touching the barrel when there is a pressure point from the front rest or bipod.
Also, your bedding shuld support 1-2 inches of the barrel in front of the receiver.
What weight trigger? I have almost all my precision rifle triggers at 1 to 1.1#. 1.5# max on triggers that I cannot get lower. Absolutely no creep or it will throw off your concentration. Breathing technique and heart rate all can make or break a group.
For lead filled bullets I usually find .005 to .015 in off the lands is best. I always start from .010 and go up and down in .002 increments with 4 rounds to allow for a flyer.
Lead free bullets... probably start at .050 off the lands (yes).
You can't shoot 5 shot groups with a 300 Mag unless you measure your barrel temp between shots starting with a fouling shot and then take your following shots at least close to that temperature or stick with the cold shot temp if you expect to take a single cold shot in the field. If it is a bech gun and expecting many shots then I would let the barrel cool down after 4-5 shots. You can do 10 maybe, you should be able to touch your barrel with bare fingers.... like water... 120-135 degrees F. So stick with 3 shot groups, Maaaaybe 4, but its gonna take you 30 minutes to shoot a group; I don't have the patience. You can use barrel cooling techniques, compressed air or ice.
A muzzle brake will help dramatically, reduce your flinch, barrel bounce, etc.
I'll say it.... shooting technique is probably 90% of shooting a group!
Have you tried to have a friend who is a better shooter than you try to shoot a group with your gun? Please let us know how you make out!

 

[Swiftkill]

Believe it or not, Remington Core Lokt 180 grain ammo was the most accurate factory ammo I have tried. The 180 flat base was Made for the 300. Privi Partisan 170s are also extremely accurate. Do you want SEXY or do you want accuracy and bullet performance? I have put old Hornady 180 flat base interlock bullets through a 1" block of cold rolled steel! (Not armor but, amazingly impressive)

 

[Les in Wyoming]

I had a hard time with my 300 WM. There were a number of things I did that finally got me a single hole accuracy at 100 yards. Before that it was shooting crazy patterns. One thing I see is that you are using light bullets light bullets don't always givena flat trajectory. In fact, it is often the opposite. A heavier bullet is more stable and has more momentum. My load for my 300 WM is a 208 gr bullet over 77.5 grains H1000. The heavier bullet carries the freight longer distances.

 

[CNY Yote Hunter]

I had one a long time ago that I couldn't get to group and it ended up being the front scope base was lose. The bolts were torqued to spec and I checked them many of times until someone mentioned they had one that the bolt had bottomed out on the front of the front base and sure enough that's what mine ended up being. Try torquing just one of the front base screws at a time and wiggling the base to check for movement. The back one on the front base which I had torqued first had none when torqued, I had never check the front one prior due to that. Error on my part, just a suggestion….

 

[.300 Dakota]

10/2020 production date 700 300win sps.
I've tried 165nbt, 168ablr, 180sgk, 180fed fusion, 155 (I think they are nos match they shot best). Have tried doing 3 shot ladder/ group test with 7828, 4831, 4451, re26.
I just floated the stock and changed out the new Burris veracity to make sure it's not the scope.
Everything is tourqed to spec.

anyone have recommendations for bullet to try. I'm going to run hammer bullets but want to try to get it to group before I start sending 1.25 pills down the pipe. Best group is 155 like 1.5moa. the rest is 2.5-3moa

Send off for blue printing and rebarreling. Sadly many of the later model Remingtons suffer like this. Every one I've purchased since about 2005 has been little or no better. I stopped buying them except for getting a donor action that had to be blue printed each time. Most likely the action is out of square double digits (10 thousandths or more) and the tenon threads are probably no better. I'm sure the barrel isn't stellar either and could be helped by the Tubb Final Finish as someone already recommended. That MIGHT get you to MOA, but will not make a gnat killer out of it. I got a Bergara Ridge in 7-08 that is EXACTLY like you're describing when they first came out. Finally cut my losses on it.

 

[Tom Wright]

10/2020 production date 700 300win sps.
I've tried 165nbt, 168ablr, 180sgk, 180fed fusion, 155 (I think they are nos match they shot best). Have tried doing 3 shot ladder/ group test with 7828, 4831, 4451, re26.
I just floated the stock and changed out the new Burris veracity to make sure it's not the scope.
Everything is tourqed to spec.

anyone have recommendations for bullet to try. I'm going to run hammer bullets but want to try to get it to group before I start sending 1.25 pills down the pipe. Best group is 155 like 1.5moa. the rest is 2.5-3moa

I've said this before in this forum. Barrels and guns generally like some bullets and don't like others. I'm 74, and when I started reloading with my Dad at 9, he taught me to first by several types of factory loads and see which the gun shot bestBEFORE hand loads—his opinion was that it eliminated a lot of chaff, and pointed you in the right direction.

I do it today and with the excellent factory loads today I've become somewhat lazy. My "go-to" gun is an off the shel Browning ss hunter in .300 WinMag. I used the same philosophy when I bought it. I found it shot three combos well in 180gr— Barnes, Federal and Swift. Swift A-frames are still my favorite in accuracy, perpetration and stopping. Nothing new or slick, but works on North American, European and African big game and most of the energy is dissipated INSIDE the animal, and nearly all the bullets are found in one piece.

I'm decidedly am old fashioned, but one shot kills up to 550-600 yards away, on tough critters like kudu and eland, are plenty of proof for me.

 

[LongBomber]

I didnt read all 8 pages, but with the way things are now I would have it rebarreled. You will end up put more $$ in components down the barrel trying to make it work than the cost of a new barrel.

 

[ARlife4me]

I didnt read all 8 pages, but with the way things are now I would have it rebarreled. You will end up put more $$ in components down the barrel trying to make it work than the cost of a new barrel.

AND if the barrel isn't the issue, then what and how much more money will be spent? Start with the base (receiver) and if that is good then rebarrel might be a better start/solution.

 

[ARlife4me]

What about using plastigage? Get an empty case, attach a piece of plastigage then close the bolt. Remove the case and measure. If 1 side of the case is tighter than the other, then the bolt might not be trued/squared enough to use effectively. I use plastigage when installing a new receiver onto a chassis. Lets me know whether it's pulled 1 direction or another.


https://www.plastigaugeusa.com/