Good 25-06 brass?


Well-Known Member
Dec 26, 2008
My dad has shot a 25-06 for years, and I'm thinking about getting one. What do you all think of the brass available, any recomendations or warnings? I'm willing to pay for quality brass, and wondering how many loadings to expect.
A lot depends of how much work you are willing to do, probably the best would be Lapua 30-06 and then you would have to have and S-bushing die with several bushings to get it down to 25 cal, or if you had access to a 280 die and a 270 die and then the 25-06 that would probably work.
You may also have to turn the necks because they will be fairly thick by the time you size them from 30cal to 25 cal.
Depending on how hot you load them and whether or not you anneal the necks every 3 to 4 shots you could get 5 to 15 firings on the Lapua.
If you just want to buy the brass and load them, then I would use Winchester, you will probably get about half as many loads out of the Winchester under the same conditions.
Powder Valley has both in stock at reasonable prices
I agree with Dave except i think you will get a whole lot more than 15 reloads with the Lapua brass in a 25-06, I would expect 40 plus, especially if you use bushings to size.

Right now I am using Winchester and accuracy out of my 25-06 Sendero is great. I just use a FL sizer and back it off a little to leave a donut around the bottom of the neck and just bump the shoulder and body back a little. works great. If doing that way, i would recoomend using a floating expander button with rubber 'o' ring to get more concentric necks... haven't doen this yet and am considering going FL bushing die and Lapua .06 brass.


I have a sendero that I bought in 2001, I shoot a 100gr Nosler Ballistic tip at 3400 fps and I use Rem and Win brass (the cheap stuff). I only neck size and I have got the same 100 brass, and I know I have over 15 reloads with them. The gun still shoots bug hole groups @ 100yds.
When I built my 25-06 back in 1970 it was still a wildcat. I got once fired 30-06 military brass and necked them down. It would shoot under .375 groups with Sierrs 87gr. HPBT all the time. My best 5 shot group was .204
I didn't know anything about all this brass prep that goes on now.
It has a 28 inch Mcgowan barrel on it.
I prefer to reform military 30-06 brass for my 25-06. The "Greek" brass with the HXP head stamp works well for me. I get it for free at the range, all I have to do is bend down and pick it up. I do the re-forming all in one step with my Lyman 25-06 FL size die, trim, then fire form, then neck size with the Lee Collet Neck die. I have to bump the shoulder back periodicly but I get very consistent results in my Ruger #1V. I had a stash of new factory brass but sold it all because I like the re-formed brass better. I've been re-forming for my gun for about 5 years now and not a single problem. My guns chamber does not require me neck turn the re-formed brass. I had a slight problem with blow back (case neck and shoulders turning black from ignited powder) with factory brass but that has gone away with my re-forms. I think the slight increase in neck wall thickness worked to my advantage with my gun.
I use Norma 270 brass to fire form into 25-06AI. Simple process and I've managed to get four loads thus far but I do anneal after F/F. Norma has a bad rap for being sof but I have no complaints in either my 25-06AI or 204.
Mostly I shoot R-P .30-06 brass I've picked up at the range and resized to .25-06 (always have to length trim after resizing). I've also used Federal and Winchester brass. My Ruger is at best a 1.5 M.O.A. rifle, so brand of brass, weight sorting, or neck turning doesn't really make any difference. And while I have pricier and more precise rifles, the .25-06 is still my go-to rifle when deer season comes around.
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