Gm upper engine cleaner for carbon

No one's trying to sell you anything. This thread will reach a hundred times over the number of contributors to it. There's valuable information. And nobody buys the 4 ounce. The 20 ounce is almost 2/3 less per ounce.
 
keep telling me about gun cleaning products
$16 for FOUR ounces of Eliminator...$4/oz
gm TEC $8 for 15 ounces..... $0.53/oz
SEVEN AND ONE HALF times the cost because it says "gun" on it

Like I said it didn't cost me anything to try it, so if it works like the video shows. They were confident enough to say that the product speaks for itself and I would be a customer for life. Well see how that plays out, we've had rotten weather it's either cold and raining or rain, snow and ice with freezing temps. When it changes I'll try it on my pistols...
 
AR10AR15MAN: PLEASE DO SOME RESEARCH !!!
not sort of wrong at all!
I was talking exactly about the spray carb. cleaner you can buy right now at your favorite auto store. It may not be as strong as it used to be in the 60's 70's but still an acidic petrochemical READ THE CAN "CORROSIVE ON CONTACT WITH SKIN FLUSH WITH WATER". It is WATER DEACTIVATED and designed to be done as such ask a chemical engineer turns whitish and flushes away the acidic part leaving an oily residue that will not stop rust. People that use it improperly are a mechanics best friend.
2nd with water injection through your engines intake you will find you can increase power, raise compression and control detonation using it. Propeller airplanes especially during ww2 and race cars still use it today and now they have also added methanol with it. I have an injection setup using this on my 2018 blown Challenger Demon #708 of 3000 at almost 1000 horsepower. that is one of the reasons your car engine makes more power in the rain and on high humidity days denser heavier air, higher compression steals some cylinder volume water does not compress, turns to steam with combustion cooling peak temp helping to control detonation then gases off and adds some extra o2. This is a very simplistic explanation you can follow the drift. Also we use plastic bags and rubber bands to encapsulate or cover items when washing engines still in the car along with engine degreasers and carb cleaner on the older cars. Only a idiot would hose down the barrels of a carb, mounted on a working or running engine. As a plus you will find that your groups are better on very high humidity and light rainy days because of the heavy dense air your spotter will have it easier watching trails also.
3rd You can buy carb dip or soak cleaner at your better auto stores called CHEM B12 comes in a 1 gallon paint can partially filled with dip tray 20 bucks or so. It is also available from Safety- Kleen in a 20 gallon drum for shop use. very caustic defiantly water to deactivate. Both will attack carbon just hard on steel if left to long it will eat through a steel paint can just takes a long time have a wood shelf to prove it. (I.E. 10 minutes on dip 30 minutes with spray max scrub then wet water patch dry patch and scope repeat as necessary oil when done use shorter times on stainless will discolor exterior surfaces pretty much for life.) I learned the hard way on a colt stainless auto frame being sloppy on the bench.
4th I was not talking about internal carbon cleaners like SEA FOAM I have never tried it is designed to work in a combustion environment.
I retired at 50 years old and a Veteran set for the rest of my life because of others who took their time to impart some of their wisdom upon me that I learned from and took to heart. I also freely impart knowledge to help others hoping to save them some of others peoples mistakes.
Some times in the army we used some pretty strange cleaners and lube on those m-16's and 45's like dot 3 brake fluid is a lite oil and a cleaner but smokes like hell and will probably shorten you life breathing the fumes. There is a reason the chemicals for firearms cost more it is called safety and smokeless powder compatibility and some still melt plastic things but most are not as caustic to your skin as chemicals in the automotive world. Please do your self a favor and READ THE LABEL INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS FOR SAFE USE TWICE!
5th You have now just been Schooled.
If I was a Drill Sargent that would be 50 Squat Thrusts per paragraph! Plus I would have been yelling right in your ear the whole time!!!
Automotive chemicals are not designed for firearm maintenance but some work quite well with proper knowledge of their properties and use. I would never clean a carb with Hoppies #9 but it very well might work, I can see an experiment on a motorcycle carb in the future but it will cost way more than that $2.50 carb spray can for the Hoppies or using brake cleaner instead of gun scrubber.
Hopefully I have not offended you that was not the objective and I apologize if I have.
My late father was an Engineering graduate from M.I.T. in Boston and R.O.T.C. I can still feel some of those squat thrusts pushups were for girls.
Have a great day out shooting and good luck with your firearm maintenance that's our part of the repayment for all of the fun we have shooting them!
 
AR10AR15MAN: PLEASE DO SOME RESEARCH !!!
not sort of wrong at all!
I was talking exactly about the spray carb. cleaner you can buy right now at your favorite auto store. It may not be as strong as it used to be in the 60's 70's but still an acidic petrochemical READ THE CAN "CORROSIVE ON CONTACT WITH SKIN FLUSH WITH WATER". It is WATER DEACTIVATED and designed to be done as such ask a chemical engineer turns whitish and flushes away the acidic part leaving an oily residue that will not stop rust. People that use it improperly are a mechanics best friend.
2nd with water injection through your engines intake you will find you can increase power, raise compression and control detonation using it. Propeller airplanes especially during ww2 and race cars still use it today and now they have also added methanol with it. I have an injection setup using this on my 2018 blown Challenger Demon #708 of 3000 at almost 1000 horsepower. that is one of the reasons your car engine makes more power in the rain and on high humidity days denser heavier air, higher compression steals some cylinder volume water does not compress, turns to steam with combustion cooling peak temp helping to control detonation then gases off and adds some extra o2. This is a very simplistic explanation you can follow the drift. Also we use plastic bags and rubber bands to encapsulate or cover items when washing engines still in the car along with engine degreasers and carb cleaner on the older cars. Only a idiot would hose down the barrels of a carb, mounted on a working or running engine. As a plus you will find that your groups are better on very high humidity and light rainy days because of the heavy dense air your spotter will have it easier watching trails also.
3rd You can buy carb dip or soak cleaner at your better auto stores called CHEM B12 comes in a 1 gallon paint can partially filled with dip tray 20 bucks or so. It is also available from Safety- Kleen in a 20 gallon drum for shop use. very caustic defiantly water to deactivate. Both will attack carbon just hard on steel if left to long it will eat through a steel paint can just takes a long time have a wood shelf to prove it. (I.E. 10 minutes on dip 30 minutes with spray max scrub then wet water patch dry patch and scope repeat as necessary oil when done use shorter times on stainless will discolor exterior surfaces pretty much for life.) I learned the hard way on a colt stainless auto frame being sloppy on the bench.
4th I was not talking about internal carbon cleaners like SEA FOAM I have never tried it is designed to work in a combustion environment.
I retired at 50 years old and a Veteran set for the rest of my life because of others who took their time to impart some of their wisdom upon me that I learned from and took to heart. I also freely impart knowledge to help others hoping to save them some of others peoples mistakes.
Some times in the army we used some pretty strange cleaners and lube on those m-16's and 45's like dot 3 brake fluid is a lite oil and a cleaner but smokes like hell and will probably shorten you life breathing the fumes. There is a reason the chemicals for firearms cost more it is called safety and smokeless powder compatibility and some still melt plastic things but most are not as caustic to your skin as chemicals in the automotive world. Please do your self a favor and READ THE LABEL INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS FOR SAFE USE TWICE!
5th You have now just been Schooled.
If I was a Drill Sargent that would be 50 Squat Thrusts per paragraph! Plus I would have been yelling right in your ear the whole time!!!
Automotive chemicals are not designed for firearm maintenance but some work quite well with proper knowledge of their properties and use. I would never clean a carb with Hoppies #9 but it very well might work, I can see an experiment on a motorcycle carb in the future but it will cost way more than that $2.50 carb spray can for the Hoppies or using brake cleaner instead of gun scrubber.
Hopefully I have not offended you that was not the objective and I apologize if I have.
My late father was an Engineering graduate from M.I.T. in Boston and R.O.T.C. I can still feel some of those squat thrusts pushups were for girls.
Have a great day out shooting and good luck with your firearm maintenance that's our part of the repayment for all of the fun we have shooting them!
Hey Snapshooter, snapping that whip...lol
No, not really, just kidding, no ill intent meant toward anyone! We're definitely not selling anything, just enjoying a cold snowy winters night. Many of us are like a dog chasing its tail when it comes to our hobbies, we simply enjoy the chase. I also retired in my 50's and I'm very grateful for all we have. You hit a lot of truths there, I saw a Makarov PA-63 ruined one day when a guy in our shop thought he'd use brakleen to clean his pistol. Many things in life boils down to application. If he could have gone back, Hoppes would have been just fine.
 
No one's trying to sell you anything. This thread will reach a hundred times over the number of contributors to it. There's valuable information. And nobody buys the 4 ounce. The 20 ounce is almost 2/3 less per ounce.

Your right Sir, we're not selling or trying to sell anything and we're on no ones payroll, just enjoying the post...
 
Just to make it clear I do not condone the use of automotive chemicals on firearms as a practice to save money over quality firearm specific products. I have had good luck with Gun Slick foam for copper, Sweets 762 if it is really stubborn. Good soakings of Hoppe's and or Birchwood Casey solvents for crud and carbon. Kroil is not to be overlooked it well defiantly find its way in and under things if left soaking over night. If all else fails Remington paste or JB paste as a last resort because it is abrasive. Although I have had it work well on a mop with a drill to remove carbon ring and polish chambers.
 
I wonder about the use of automotive products for the removal of carbon. Do the older products that were designed for gasoline 40 years ago (Leaded fuel) work better than the latest products are have been designed since we now use mostly unleaded fuel? Especially fuel with Ethanol, does it require as much carbon removal properties in a cleaner?
I'm just thinking that present day automotive cleaners might not be as effective on removing carbon since they are designed for newer gas, whereas the cleaners designed 50 years ago to remove carbon worked a lot better?
Maybe the best product might be gun cleaners that are designed for firearms in the present, not using an automotive product that was designed for todays gas? But I guess that was what OP was asking when he started this thread, asking "What is the BEST".
The Mercury product that was designed, I guess for outboard motors, would probably be more effective than a product designed for modern car engines with ethanol gas? Or as OP asked, is the GM product as effective?
All liquid fuels are hydrocarbons so carbon will always be an issue with the internal combustion engine.
 
I am chomping at the bit badly to get to the range also. Need to test out a bunch of used pistols picked up since the fall Tulsa show. Plus 5 new Ar builds I pieced together while snowed in and a Savage 243 long range precision I picked up at Tulsa. ALL need to be to function checked and sighted while there is time for Smithing and such. Everything is prepped and ready to go. It's a full gambit of work probably take two days and I have the fever. It just needs to quit snowing here too, 6 inches plus last week and now there talking 4+ more Sunday. In 5 weeks it's Tulsa again and I do not even know what I am taking rifles not included. Now I need cull the herd, I've already been given the "Look" and the "Face" that says "Your Done Little Man" just one word and you're a Eunuch. I know you can relate Boy I sure wish winter was over the Queen needs a ride on the Harley on a dry road to de-stress it's like a Snickers commercial around here! lol
And I've got work to do my hobbies pay for the fun vacations and she gets it.
 
I am chomping at the bit badly to get to the range also. Need to test out a bunch of used pistols picked up since the fall Tulsa show. Plus 5 new Ar builds I pieced together while snowed in and a Savage 243 long range precision I picked up at Tulsa. ALL need to be to function checked and sighted while there is time for Smithing and such. Everything is prepped and ready to go. It's a full gambit of work probably take two days and I have the fever. It just needs to quit snowing here too, 6 inches plus last week and now there talking 4+ more Sunday. In 5 weeks it's Tulsa again and I do not even know what I am taking rifles not included. Now I need cull the herd, I've already been given the "Look" and the "Face" that says "Your Done Little Man" just one word and you're a Eunuch. I know you can relate Boy I sure wish winter was over the Queen needs a ride on the Harley on a dry road to de-stress it's like a Snickers commercial around here! lol
And I've got work to do my hobbies pay for the fun vacations and she gets it.

Yeah, their saying 6-10" of snow again this weekend. I'm ready for May....
 
different steel in used in the manufacture of engine combustion areas vs firearms; different fuels (gasoline vs powder and primer) and temperatures creating different carbon deposits...... is't it like comparing apples and oranges? i don't know; sounds more complicated than simple to me.
cost for 16 oz. Boretech or KG or other products is minimal spread over a year or 6 months + or - depending on how many times cleaning is done. there are other areas of spending in a lifetime to save and count pennies.
 
Snapshooter,
I thought you might like this read! It took me a while to remember just what the stuff was called "Ed's Red". Again not advocating any use or the use of chemical's mentioned, I just found it to be interesting. I'm not sure just how long this stuff's been around, but back in the day I remember guys talking about it. I see that the page had been updated in 2018-12-06. I'M sure there's several guy's on here that has ran across this and can tell us a little more about Ed's Red Bore Cleaner... I'm not advocating any product or products effectiveness over any other. I just find things of such nature interesting. It seems to be a page of home made recipes for cleaners and lubes composed over the years by shooters and hunters, 'funny side' it's much like Aunt B's lady's recipe guide..
Hope you enjoy the read.....
https://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
 
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