Gm upper engine cleaner for carbon

[DartonJager]

Was wondering if there's anything out there that works better and is more cost effective at removing stubborn carbon build up than GM upper engine cleaner.
I don't have the greatest OTC selection near my home of dedicated gun cleaning solvents, especially those for removing carbon build up but GM UIC is.
Thanks,
Art.

 

[snox801]

I'd be very careful of any of that stuff possibly damaging the metal. In a car it's usually not sitting on any metal very long.
It may work but it would be careful. I just ordered boretech and they ship it to me.

 

[yobuck]

I have known some to use it and claim it works for them. Also check out "Slip 2000", which I believe started out as the same type product, but now can be bought in lots of places as a carbon cleaning product.

 

[just country]

morning quicksilver mercury outboard motor carb cleaner;
good stuff justme gbot tum

 

[ar10ar15man]

this,
not gm engine stuff
old gm TEC top engine cleaner worked, replaced by a nonworking part.
as far as i know the only thing left is the merc quicksilver.
subaru may still have a tec

morning quicksilver mercury outboard motor carb cleaner;
good stuff justme gbot tum

 

[PCarr]

ttt

 

[just country]

morning, ar10-ar15man u do not know what u r talking
about. I learned this from an old target shooter
the man was 70yrs. young, shooting a custom made
rem. 40x single shot 308 172gr sierra match bullets.
every 5 shots the gent cleaned his weapons barrel ex marine.
what does carb cleaner clean?? carbon!!!! what does gun powder
leave in a barrel when the primer ignites the powder??
carbon residue. use what want to clean ur weapon.
read this u may learn???!!! justme gbot tum

 

[Wedgy]

OP, are you talking about carbon fouling or hard carbon(throat area) ?
They are totally different and it is generally agreed upon that hard carbon needs an abrasive to remove. Isso bore paste or Montana Extreme Polish are examples, the Isso blue plastic brush is very hard and designed for this(short stroking the throat) and is quite effective. Most mix the paste with something like Kroil on a patch and short stroke the throat area. You can also spin a brush on a cordless drill but don't get carried away. It is best to do this before the ring forms with a light cleaning every 60-100 rounds, depends on the gun, load, etc. as it's very hard to remove once it has formed. If a ring has formed you can see symptoms such as high pressure in a previously safe load, degraded accuracy, velocity fluctuations, etc.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=bore+paste&userItemsPerPage=48
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2049139550/iosso-eliminator-rifle-bore-brush-nylon

 

[just country]

morning, use what u want!!! justme gbot tum

 

[ar10ar15man]

you are confused child.
i still have tins of the ORIGINAL GM TEC (top engine cleaner) i have used it for over 20 years.
BUT
gm CHANGED the formula due to calif cancer warning krap.
the replacement....7-8 years ago was a 1 oz vial vs the original 16 oz tin.
useless for a shooter.
i found subaru, and have been told of the outboard products.
so i do not know what you are crying about.
i start every cleaning with 2 wet patches of gm tec.
this process worked well enough to win me the 2015 600 yd nation championship.

you do what you want

ps sierra does not make a 172 match 308 bullet..never did

morning, ar10-ar15man u do not know what u r talking
about. I learned this from an old target shooter
the man was 70yrs. young, shooting a custom made
rem. 40x single shot 308 172gr sierra match bullets.
every 5 shots the gent cleaned his weapons barrel ex marine.
what does carb cleaner clean?? carbon!!!! what does gun powder
leave in a barrel when the primer ignites the powder??
carbon residue. use what want to clean ur weapon.
read this u may learn???!!! justme gbot tum

 

[ar10ar15man]

the best option is to
NOT ALLOW HARD CARBON BUILD UP.
you do this by cleaning for carbon EVERYTIME you clean...then no build up.

OP, are you talking about carbon fouling or hard carbon(throat area) ?
They are totally different and it is generally agreed upon that hard carbon needs an abrasive to remove. Isso bore paste or Montana Extreme Polish are examples, the Isso blue plastic brush is very hard and designed for this(short stroking the throat) and is quite effective. Most mix the paste with something like Kroil on a patch and short stroke the throat area. You can also spin a brush on a cordless drill but don't get carried away. It is best to do this before the ring forms with a light cleaning every 60-100 rounds, depends on the gun, load, etc. as it's very hard to remove once it has formed. If a ring has formed you can see symptoms such as high pressure in a previously safe load, degraded accuracy, velocity fluctuations, etc.
https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=bore+paste&userItemsPerPage=48
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2049139550/iosso-eliminator-rifle-bore-brush-nylon

 

[DartonJager]

Im talking about carbon build up only and not a carbon ring. At present I use Birchwood Casey 2 in 1 bore cleaner that I bought in very large volume over 20 years ago that came in 16oz pump to spray bottles and works well to remove my carbon fouling I then use Wipe-Out to remove the copper. Used Barnes CR-10 for a long time till I heard about Wipe-Out at 6mmbr.com and gave it a try and it worked as advertised and it won't harm my barrel or any other part of my gun it
it might get into.

I like most shooters can not afford to buy every reloading gizmo I'd like to. And that applies to a Lyman bore scope. I can however afford the $40 for a borescope that attaches to my smart phone so I'll likely go that route. Ones with a 90* self illuminating viewing attachment that work with your cell and an app are quite affordable.

 

[DartonJager]

And ar10ar15man you are absolutely correct. After every range session I clean my rifle bores until I am reasonably certain I removed as much carbon as I can based on patch color then I go after the copper. But truth be known unless one has a bore scope you just dont know.
My benchmark for clean enough is not so much a pure white patch but one that is discolored only by solvent. I have found a dry all white patch doesn't necessarily equal a equally clean bore.

My reasons behind wanting to try a new carbon remover is im guessing here but I suspect there are better carbon cleaners than what I presently have and I want to give coating my bullets and barrel in HBN a try and figured I should get my rifle bore as close to 100% carbon and copper free as possible prior to applying the HBN to it. I have no doubt I can get at least 95-98% of the copper out by the color of my patches carbon I can't be that sure of.

 

[Laelkhunter]

I wonder about the use of automotive products for the removal of carbon. Do the older products that were designed for gasoline 40 years ago (Leaded fuel) work better than the latest products are have been designed since we now use mostly unleaded fuel? Especially fuel with Ethanol, does it require as much carbon removal properties in a cleaner?
I'm just thinking that present day automotive cleaners might not be as effective on removing carbon since they are designed for newer gas, whereas the cleaners designed 50 years ago to remove carbon worked a lot better?
Maybe the best product might be gun cleaners that are designed for firearms in the present, not using an automotive product that was designed for todays gas? But I guess that was what OP was asking when he started this thread, asking "What is the BEST".
The Mercury product that was designed, I guess for outboard motors, would probably be more effective than a product designed for modern car engines with ethanol gas? Or as OP asked, is the GM product as effective?