Glued on pad removal

[cohunt]

I have a grayboe outlander stock that has a glued on decelerator pad and I'm wanting to possibly change it out.

Are there any tricks of the trade that will help me get the old glued on pad off without messing up the stock?

 

[Laelkhunter]

If it was glued on by the stockmaker, I would call them. If not, whomever glued it on could tell you what adhesive they used, and either ask them about removal or google "removing item glued with ****." Maybe some heat like a hair dryer to loosen it??

 

[cohunt]

Email to grayboe already sent, have yet to hear back

 

[PopNFresh]

sharp chisel if you're good, big belt sander if you're less coordinated

 

[Rick Richard]

Probably have to cut it below the glue line and replace with a new one.

 

[Rifleman97]

Lot of good answers here. I don't like heat if the finish on the stock is anything with polymers as the heat can mess up your finish. Water works well for some glues, but generally if a glue is water soluble it wouldn't be a wise choice for a glue on pad as enough rain on a hunt and it would fall off. Acetone will melt most finishes except for poly (high gloss weatherby's style)

Best way is to cut it off with a tablesaw, or belt sand it off, so that way you can keep it square. Most effective on a budget but higher risk is a very sharp chisel and just carve it off and lightly sand the remaining,

If the maker can't do it for you, or you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, private message me. I've got a full professional wood shop and I can cut it off very precisely for you at no charge except for you pay shipping both ways.

 

[Rick Richard]

Lot of good answers here. I don't like heat if the finish on the stock is anything with polymers as the heat can mess up your finish. Water works well for some glues, but generally if a glue is water soluble it wouldn't be a wise choice for a glue on pad as enough rain on a hunt and it would fall off. Acetone will melt most finishes except for poly (high gloss weatherby's style)

Best way is to cut it off with a tablesaw, or belt sand it off, so that way you can keep it square. Most effective on a budget but higher risk is a very sharp chisel and just carve it off and lightly sand the remaining,

If the maker can't do it for you, or you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, private message me. I've got a full professional wood shop and I can cut it off very precisely for you at no charge except for you pay shipping both ways.

Wow! You can't beat that very generous offer.

 

[Rifleman97]

Wow! You can't beat that very generous offer.

I've had members on here let me borrow scope rings, a chronograph, and some other stuff when I haven't had budget or time, plus all kinds of help learning the ropes. I try and pay it forward when I can.

 

[Hugnot]

I backed off and removed the screws and cut it off flush using my DeWalt miter saw - fine tooth blade, nice smooth, square cut. The pad was glued on with some type of epoxy and also had screws. .

 

[Rick Richard]

I backed off and removed the screws and cut it off flush using my DeWalt miter saw - fine tooth blade, nice smooth, square cut. The pad was glued on with some type of epoxy and also had screws. .

Yep, that was probably the only good option without destroying the stock.

 

[ickes123]

Wow! You can't beat that very generous offer.

Lot of good answers here. I don't like heat if the finish on the stock is anything with polymers as the heat can mess up your finish. Water works well for some glues, but generally if a glue is water soluble it wouldn't be a wise choice for a glue on pad as enough rain on a hunt and it would fall off. Acetone will melt most finishes except for poly (high gloss weatherby's style)

Best way is to cut it off with a tablesaw, or belt sand it off, so that way you can keep it square. Most effective on a budget but higher risk is a very sharp chisel and just carve it off and lightly sand the remaining,

If the maker can't do it for you, or you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, private message me. I've got a full professional wood shop and I can cut it off very precisely for you at no charge except for you pay shipping both ways.

You're a good man great to see.

 

[Greatgrandad]

A razor sharp, double handle draw knife used for shaping and planing wood. Lock the stock in a padded vise butt end up and align the knife at the stock/pad joint. Begin drawing slowly and let the wood stock guide the rest of the way.

After removal, sand as need to remove remaining glue.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I have removed quite a few off different stock makes.
The easiest is cutting it off, but I have successfully removed some by putting the stock into a deep freezer overnight, then strapping it to the workbench with the stock laying on it's side with only the pad clear of the bench edge and giving a swift whack with a dead blow hammer. The glue is brittle when it's cold like that and the pad just comes off with no damage. It depends on the glue though, epoxies go brittle when cold. I wouldn't do it to a wooden stock though.

Cheers.

 

[cohunt]

I backed off and removed the screws and cut it off flush using my DeWalt miter saw - fine tooth blade, nice smooth, square cut. The pad was glued on with some type of epoxy and also had screws. .

I heard back from grayboe and they said its glued and screwed--- but I see no screws anywhere!

The pad says "decelerator" on it but there are no holes or indents where screws might go.

Grayboe said they have not had much luck removing them without damaging the stock---- anyone know what material the outlander is made from? All poly, fiberglass/resin, carbon fiber/resin?

I might try a multi tool just above the stock ( sacrificing the old pad) then sand down the last bit of the pad base till I get it even with the stock---- or maybe bandsaw might be better?