glass bedding

[cwhuntsalot]

Friends, I am in the mood to replace a few of my synthetic and plain jane factory stocks with prettier sticks. I have attempted to glass bed several of them and seem to keep having the same problem with every one. I am using West System marine grade glass resin with the slow acting hardener. after letting it set for 18-24 hours it hairlips half the county trying to separate the metal from the wood. After cleaning up the releasing agent and the void filler (I've been using modeling clay) when I try to put the action back into the stock it will not go. So I end up with my Dreml grinding until it will fit. Well now it has new voids and needs to be bedded. What am I doing wrong?
Thanx Curtis

 

[Joe King]

won't go meaning you can't just put back in without much fuss? I always figured if I didn't have to work at it to get it back together I didn't have a good bedding job. My 270 I really thought that I wouldn't get it back together, finally used the action screws to pull it in place, takes 1/2hr to get it out and I only used surgical tubing to apply the pressure when I bedded it.

 

[Skyking]

Don't waste your time and money. Send it to Chad Dixon and have it done right.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yC3soqc66ds&feature=youtube_gdata_player]stock work - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Dr. Vette]

Chad doesn't do skim bedding jobs. He's said this previously and if he can't work on the whole rifle he doesn't touch it.

Having said that, if it were my rifle I'd change to Devcon for my epoxy and use Kiwi neutral shoe polish as a release agent unless you have access to a commercial release agent. Using these two products I (as well as many others) have had stellar results. I suspect that your problem is in your choice of materials.

 

[killitgrillit]

x2 on the devcon and kiwi neutral or johnson paste floor wax.

 

[7stw]

Over the years, I have bedded , floated and have used a few different epoxies, and glass. I used to like Acraglass gel, but with ALL of them, like you, it seems as though after you get it apart, it is sometimes difficult to re assemble.
Well, I just pillar bedded, and action bedded a 700 LSS. This time, I used plain old JB weld. As a releases agent, you can use Pam cooking spray. I have also used industrial silicone spray. It works great, and will not fail you. As to the action screws, I bought a section of 1/4-28 threaded rod, and made a T- handle. I put a check nut on it, and used that to seat the action into the stock. Taping and using putty is great, but I always remove the trigger as well.
I have bedded six rifles since that time, and I find that the JB weld works well, dries a little quicker, and most of all, it dosen't " shrink" when you dis assemble, and reassembly is easy. Try it, I think you will like it.
P/ S, using a dremel tool to do the relief work is the best way to go. Additionally, after yo take it apart, it will help you dress up the unwanted " ooze" that you get.

 

[tuck2]

I put tape on the bottem,sides and front of the recoil lug . It only take a bit of clearance to not have problems when setting the barreled action back into the stock.

 

[7stw]

I put tape on the bottem,sides and front of the recoil lug . It only take a bit of clearance to not have problems when setting the barreled action back into the stock.

Yup, I do that as well.

 

[cwhuntsalot]

I found a product at the boat shop called Super Mend. Made by the GOOP people. It is a two part epoxy that mixes to the consistency of pudding. Barely runs, trims with a knife for the first day or so after curing 18 hrs. OOPS!! I forgot to tape the recoil lug. No problem, one hand on the forearm and one on the tang and just walk it in. I may have found a new best friend. I tried the JB Weld and it is very similar to this product. It also works well.
Thanx for all of your advice and helpful tips Curtis