First Build - Looking for thoughts...

Bullets are only getting longer, and they are much more concentric and better balanced than they used to be. Over-twisting a rifle isn't near the concern that it was in the old days.
 
It can. Over-spinning a bullet can sometimes cause detrimental outcomes, like bullet deformation, spinning the jacket off the lead core, and bullets essentially grenading in mid-air a few yards after exiting the muzzle. However, running a 7mm with a 1:8 twist instead of a 1:9 twist will not cause any issues at all, and will give greater stability, and will open up your abilities to run the full gamut of 7mm bullets.

Example, trying to run a 1:6 twist on a .257 Wby (at those velocities) can cause some issues.

Correct. Faster twist for the purpose of faster twist is not gain, in fact ^^^^ that happens. But we are talking about a 280AI and a 180gr long bearing surface bullet. With a 2800 fps velocity spinning at 252,000 rpm, that doesn't happen. For reference, at 9 twist , 242,000 rpm
 
I'll give an example of what it takes to "overtwist". In my .260 AI, I have an 8 twist. I usually shoot 140+ bullets in it. However, I fireformed some Peterson brass, and for fun and somewhat curiosity, I got some 85 grain sierra varminters, figured the extra twist would help the explosive affect. I loaded with varget, sent them at a mild 3350 fps. They grouped like this:
20180429_113502.jpg


With the lower two of the group being from me yanking the trigger on both shots. HOWEVER, if my barrel got anything past warm, I would get every couple rounds as flyers, like 20 feet off, due to them coming apart.

But as you see, they were still very accurate, with zero load developement, they would just come apart. This is the extreme you have to go to to have twist cause a significant issue.
 
Yes, plus a fair bit more modifications to the rifle. The .28 Nosler is based on the RUM cartridges, which are based on the .404 Jeffery case. Significantly fatter in diameter than the standard bolt face (.473") cartridges like the .25-06, .270 Win, .30-06, .308 Win, etc...

He would have to have the feed rails on the bottom of the action opened up with a milling machine, and would have to swap his mag box and follower to a RUM mag box and follower, and open his bolt face up to a magnum bolt face. All this work will need to be done by a professional gunsmith.
Might as well buy a Browning hells canyon rifle already set up in 28N. Or just have a single shot rifle.?
 
Might as well buy a Browning hells canyon rifle already set up in 28N. Or just have a single shot rifle.?
Or start with a R700 donor rifle/action that was factory chambered in one of the RUM cartridges, and you're ready to go, other than blueprinting & building.
 
shoot I still have the first rifle I bought on my own, its a bit different now with a krieger barrel jewell trig. ptg billet bolt, still the same action and stock but I would never sell it. but it went from a 7 stw to a 7RUM and is now a 338 RUM

My go to chambering remains the .300 WM from antelope to elk size game (931 yards farthest thus far) up to 1K yards. Because the OP's purpose is ...

Purpose will be range work out to 1200, deer, elk, black bears etc. out to whatever distance I feel comfortable. Right now thats about 800-900 yards. I don't believe you have to have a big magnum cartridge to kill elk, my go to rifle to slay those suckers has been a 270wsm with 145gr eldx and it has been a hammer on them...so the 143gr eldx or the 147gr eldm in the 6.5 will be fine.

... TwoMore's .338 RUM above is a formidable choice especially when the majestic elk at 1200 yards is involved.

"My" unwritten rule is 1500 FT-LBS for elk and 1000 FT-LBS for deer at impact with consideration of the minimum velocity the bullet is designed for. There is no substitute for shot placement and displacement. The "NUT" behind the trigger remains the biggest factor.

The OP needs to process and synthesize all the information to make a sound decision, which sometimes that easy because we all have different "real-world" experiences, wants/needs, opinions, and personal preferences. For this reason, I never ask ... just build it, right or wrong, because it is not going to be my last. :cool:;):D

Good luck to the OP. Cheers!
 
My go to chambering remains the .300 WM from antelope to elk size game (931 yards farthest thus far) up to 1K yards. Because the OP's purpose is ...



... TwoMore's .338 RUM above is a formidable choice especially when the majestic elk at 1200 yards is involved.

"My" unwritten rule is 1500 FT-LBS for elk and 1000 FT-LBS for deer at impact with consideration of the minimum velocity the bullet is designed for. There is no substitute for shot placement and displacement. The "NUT" behind the trigger remains the biggest factor.

The OP needs to process and synthesize all the information to make a sound decision, which sometimes that easy because we all have different "real-world" experiences, wants/needs, opinions, and personal preferences. For this reason, I never ask ... just build it, right or wrong, because it is not going to be my last. :cool:;):D

Good luck to the OP. Cheers!
And the parameters given by the op are difficult to meet on a standard bolt face action, no matter any way you slice it
 
And the parameters given by the op are difficult to meet on a standard bolt face action, no matter any way you slice it
This is true. In my opinion, there are zero factory options in a .280 AI, or any other standard bolt face offerings for that matter, that will have enough steam left at 1200 yds for an elk. Hand loads, doable, but you will be on the low end. But factory loads are a significant hindrance. There are some that will get you out there pretty far for sure, but 1200 is a poke on an elk.
 
Just to clarify my original post - it was range work out to 1200. Then deer, elk and bears etc out to 800-900 yards. Looking back I could have worded that better.
 
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