fire lapping stock barrels

old fart

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Joined
Dec 8, 2003
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125
Location
Aurora , Colorado
I'm not really sure I would try this in custom barrels - but for stock barrels, has any body done this and what results have you gotten - am going to rebarrel and rechamber a couple of actions with stock varmit type barrels and looking for some input - thanks
 
I used Tubbs FinalFinish on an A-Bolt II for break-in. Fantastic shooting and with coated bullets I get >100rnds between cleanings. No blue patches.
Works as claimed
 
Mikecr - I ordered a kit , how many rounds did you end up shooting to get your results , did you test your rifle before and after? how much did the group sizes change - thanks - thinking about a couple of rifles and a contender or two.
 
The A-Bolt was new-unfired. I broke it in with 50rnds per instructions in Tubbs kit. Cleaning after each of the 1st 10, then after every following 5(which were finer&finer grits from the kit).
I did not do any before hand testing of this gun. I assumed that it would copper foul like any other factory rifle.

My confidence in FinalFinish stemmed from use in an NEF Handi rifle I have, which could not hold a 5shot group due to excessive copper. 3-4 shots, nice group(for an NEF). My 5th shot and beyond would walk right off paper(regardless of barrel temps & shot timing). I had to scrub copper out constantly at the range. "Handi-rifle" my ***! So I tried Moly. Every form and method in existence. All that got me was copper AND Moly! Both were a nightmare to get out. Last, with nothing to loose, I filled the barrel with every concoction and scrubbed it for several weeks to start over clean. Then used FinalFinish, followed by Tungsten coating for all bullets, from that day forward.
Well that was the trick. The groups tightened to from 3/4" to 1/2". I have not seen the groups open with over 200rnds between a cleaning. I get no blue on patches soaked with Wipeout. And, the tungsten comes right out(it doesn't layer, like moly).
Did I damage this barrel?

I don't feel like there is any reason to worry about hurting a factory barrel. Do you think you can cause it to be worse than it already is? It's factory!
 
tungsten?????
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please explain.

JB
 
I've always taken the time to slug my barrels and hand lapp 'em . I read about this somewhere but coudn't find anyone local who actually had done it , just figured it would save me a lot of time and effort . I also have a couple of handi - rifles and yes I spent a very long time on the bores but now they both hold a 1/2" or less ,and the copper is not a problem at all . thanks for response, and help
 
I'd reserve fire-lapping to the second to the last thing to do to a barrel, just before you throw it away.

1. Break it in. Allow +200 rounds for the barrel to settle in.

2. Keep the barrel clean when breaking it in.

3. Have a borescope dropped down the barrel if it's still fouling bad.

4. IF the barrel is STILL rough after +200 rounds of breakin, THEN fire-lap it.

I'd not fire-lap a barrel just on the hope that the accuracy improves. Generally the accuracy suffers because the bore is rough, which would show up in copper fouling. Fire-lap only to reduce fouling if it's really bad AND accuracy is poor. Fire lapping CAN improve accuracy if it's bad, but I'd not expect it to make a good shooter into an excellent shooter.

Mark in Utah
 
I had good luck with JB Paste, short stroking a factory tube that fouled badly. Groups tightened up and the barrel seems to clean easier.
 
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