Ever had a rifle not shoot well with a brake?

Bigeclipse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
1,789
I am curious if a brake ever ruined your rifle's accuracy? I know it can change a current accurate load you had, but from what I have read, a little tweak should get you back. Here my situation. I have a 28nosler rifle which came with a radial brake. I have been shooting Hornady factory ammo and was getting between .6-.75inch 3 shot groups. I ran out of the factory stuff which is ok because I planned on reloading for the rifle with nosler accubonds. The radial brake was only ok for recoil reduction but terrible for prone shooting and keeping the rifle on target so I put a Gen3 Little bastard brake on it. Now I finally decided to work up some loads. I have been using the Satterlee velocity node strategy for the past 3 rifles and it has worked out well so I decided to do the same with this rifle. I loaded up 12 rounds and shot. I found two flat plateaus for a velocity node but the upper one is at max and I don't like shooting max so I stuck to the lower. I then loaded up 4 rounds in the lower node and shot a 1.25 inch group. Not great so I decided to do the berger method at this charge weight to see if maybe it was a seating depth issue. ALL of the groups were terrible. The best was just about 1 inch, while the worst was almost 2 inches. Is this a sign this rifle may be a lemon or the brake is ruining things or should I move on to another bullet? I might be giving the hammer hunters a try because I heard they are supposedly easy to load for.
 
Last edited:

Bigeclipse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
1,789
Did you shoot any factory ammo with the new brake?
My guess is your rifle just doesn't like that particular handload. typically the accubonds like a bit of a jump. I would take your most accurate power charge and work on seating depth
Unfortunately I do not have any factory loads left for the new brake. I tried .010, .050, 090, 130 jump with the velocity node charge and it didn't like any of them but maybe it just did not like the velocity node charge.
 

L.Sherm

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2017
Messages
2,776
What powder are you using, twist barrel, weight of bullet , primer, more info.
 
Last edited:

sedancowboy

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
577
Location
Wilsall, MT
This is real simple pull the brake off and try a group if you suspect the brake or put the Radial back on. Is it a CA rifle? To answer your question no I have had several maybe 10 brakes put on and it never effected negatively accuracy. In fact they shoot better or at least I shoot them better.
 

Bigeclipse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
1,789
With an 8 twist I would step up to a 180 class bullet and try CCI 250 primer lately I've been having better luck with the 250 vrs 215
I just ordered some 177 hammer hunters to give a try. Close enough to 180 class I hope.
 

Bigeclipse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
1,789
This is real simple pull the brake off and try a group if you suspect the brake or put the Radial back on. Is it a CA rifle? To answer your question no I have had several maybe 10 brakes put on and it never effected negatively accuracy. In fact they shoot better or at least I shoot them better.
It is a hellscanyon longrange with McMillan stock
 

long450

Well-Known Member
LRH Team Member
Joined
May 5, 2007
Messages
610
Location
Texas
Brakes change the barrel harmonics. Go to David Tubb's Superior Shooting website and look at tuning his brake.
 

djfergus

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2015
Messages
1,682
If your barrel does indeed physically check out to be an 8 twist, then it's probably going to be less finicky with a 180 plus bullet. Try a 180 eld or a Berger hybrid that's 180 grains or heavier.
 
Top