Epoxy in recoil lug

[billflangjr813]

If there is 1/16" wiggle room, I would still temporarily fix the lug to the action before glueing the lug into the stock, that way you can be sure that the lug is truly square with the action lug slot. That would likely require making the slot in the stock a little bigger to make sure you can get the lug in there when attached to the action without knocking it off the action.

Unless, there is some way of just glueing the lug in the stock and ensuring it's square with the action slot. I don't know what that would be if there is a itway

Don't use G- glue it's crap won't hold. Believe me.

 

[billflangjr813]

Slow set jb. Done!

Yes JB and done!!!!

 

[Stgraves260]

I need to epoxy in the recoil lug on my tikka. I don't want to bed it. Is there a specific epoxy that would work better? Superglue? 2 part epoxy like jb weld? Is there something that's permanent but removable if needed? There is very little wiggle room, maybe 1/16" in the hole the recoil lug drops into.

hope this helps. This is how I've done it. I even used vegetable oil and WD-40 before. There are releasing wax's out there as well.

 

[Russell Sonner]

I need to epoxy in the recoil lug on my tikka. I don't want to bed it. Is there a specific epoxy that would work better? Superglue? 2 part epoxy like jb weld? Is there something that's permanent but removable if needed? There is very little wiggle room, maybe 1/16" in the hole the recoil lug drops into.

Devcon 10110 is probably the most used epoxy for this purpose. I have not used it in a manner that would allow it to be removable but it could likely be done simply by not only coating the lug and barrel with your release agent but also coat the lug recess of the stock with your release agent and clay off the excluded area around the lug recess. You would end up with a chunk of Devcon that fits the lug and the recess area. If it is a very thin slotted recess you would need to enlarge it so that there is sufficient room around the lug to give a solid build to the removable chunk of Devcon that you are creating.

 

[257X50]

Got thru 2 pages and one HUGE error.....they are not all the same
Devcon.........wait a minute!!!!!
Not theory.
A smith took and made a cube of all the different types.
Sanded square and measured over a period of years.
Devcon was the winner over all others. By a wide margin.......

Do what you want to.

 

[Todd Gansel]

So I understand the situation completely, I do alot with Tikka's. I would suggest doing what winchester has done for years. You can use epoxy or any adhesive glue. But put some release agent such as past wax on the reciever and barrel, then put your adhesive in the hole you won't need much, install the lug and the screw down the gun in the stock, let dry overnight, then take apart and clean the excessive adhesive off and you're done.

 

[Bruce Treloar]

Got thru 2 pages and one HUGE error.....they are not all the same
Devcon.........wait a minute!!!!!
Not theory.
A smith took and made a cube of all the different types.
Sanded square and measured over a period of years.
Devcon was the winner over all others. By a wide margin.......

Do what you want to.

It's just another metal filled epoxy, very temperature sensitive but available in small packs making it suitable for small applications. There are numerous filled epoxies, I formulated one using marble dust which has worked well. To save weight I have cut carbon into 10mm lengths and wet this out with epoxy. Every little bit of weight saving adds up when building parts of a rifle.

 

[SSgt G Cody]

Why are you not also fully bedding the action as well as bedding the recoil lug? Or is this to be a separate procedure? Be sure to free-float the entire barrel, I have found aluminized 2-part epoxy, such as JB Weld, very good for this!

 

[CNY Yote Hunter]

Not sure what the name of the stuff was but Boyd's sells an epoxy for bedding that I've used in your exact scenario. Supposed to use the wax on anything you don't want it to bond to, I didn't use it on the recoil lug in the stock like you're doing and it has held perfectly over years of abuse. I'm pretty sure they sell it, same stuff that comes with their AT 1 stocks.

 

[Rocketeer77]

If there is 1/16" wiggle room, I would still temporarily fix the lug to the action before glueing the lug into the stock, that way you can be sure that the lug is truly square with the action lug slot. That would likely require making the slot in the stock a little bigger to make sure you can get the lug in there when attached to the action without knocking it off the action.

Unless, there is some way of just glueing the lug in the stock and ensuring it's square with the action slot. I don't know what that would be if there is a way

The Tikka action has a female slot for a steel lug that's fixed into the stock. There's no thread in the action itself, you're correct here. If you want the lug to be perfectly aligned with the action it needs some thought, also the Tikka lug actually supports the action vertically too. As well as fore & aft he should do a proper bedding job because this dab of glue concept is very Mickey Mouse me thinks?? Just saying

 

[Rocketeer77]

Why? It's a tikka so the lug is separate from the action. Remove action, heat lug with soldering gun until Epoxy, or in this case gorilla glue, loosens and remove lug. Drexel out epoxy/glue and your gtg.

Why would you ever need to remove the lug if it's fixed into the stock? I cannot see the necessity or a valid reason to have any need to make this fixed lug removable? Remember nine out of ten good ideas don't actually work

 

[Rocketeer77]

I need to epoxy in the recoil lug on my tikka. I don't want to bed it. Is there a specific epoxy that would work better? Superglue? 2 part epoxy like jb weld? Is there something that's permanent but removable if needed? There is very little wiggle room, maybe 1/16" in the hole the recoil lug drops into.

Gunworks - Tikka T3 & T3X Recoil Lug Stainless Steel - also fits Sako A7

 

[Andrew Massi]

Why would you ever need to remove the lug if it's fixed into the stock? I cannot see the necessity or a valid reason to have any need to make this fixed lug removable? Remember nine out of ten good ideas don't actually work

I was responding to another know it all who said if you glued in the lug you would have to cut the stock apart to take it out. Thanks for the non contributing post though.

 

[Rocketeer77]

I was responding to another know it all who said if you glued in the lug you would have to cut the stock apart to take it out. Thanks for the non contributing post though.

Dear me, I was actually addressing the general issue that's being discussed here? Not everything is about you personally, signed the KIA.
(Know It All)