Ucsdryder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Messages
- 1,571
Why are you applying a release agent? I assume in case some oozes out of the recoil out channel in the stock?
Epoxy in recoil lug
- Thread starter Ucsdryder
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Andrew Massi
Well-Known Member
Just habit, the first time I used way too much glue and it expanded up to the action so when I did the others It was just insurance
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
On CZ 550 Safari Magnum actions, they have a second recoil lug that sits very loose in the stock, it's called an 'F' block and is steel. Then behind that is a sliding nut that a second (actually third screw) recoil lug screw attaches the barrel to the stock.
When the stock is removed, that little screw and second recoil lug are free to fall out and bounce across the floor!
So, using a minimal amount of Devcon 10110, I bed that second lug in place, makes disassembly and reassembly so much easier. To remove one of these, it is best to use a soldering iron directly in the part and wait until the bedding compound softens, then tap the part to remove it, prying the part is a bad idea.
You can do the same, just make sure you don't use too much Devcon and put release agent ALL OVER the barreled action.
Do not allow the Devcon to go more than halfway up the sides of the recoil lug if you want to be able to remove it later, if it does, it may lock it in place permanently…ask me how I know this.
Cheers.
When the stock is removed, that little screw and second recoil lug are free to fall out and bounce across the floor!
So, using a minimal amount of Devcon 10110, I bed that second lug in place, makes disassembly and reassembly so much easier. To remove one of these, it is best to use a soldering iron directly in the part and wait until the bedding compound softens, then tap the part to remove it, prying the part is a bad idea.
You can do the same, just make sure you don't use too much Devcon and put release agent ALL OVER the barreled action.
Do not allow the Devcon to go more than halfway up the sides of the recoil lug if you want to be able to remove it later, if it does, it may lock it in place permanently…ask me how I know this.
Cheers.
Ucsdryder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Messages
- 1,571
Attachments
Similar circumstance ( T/C Compass, factory stock). Recoil lug sits in stock, fits machined slot in bottom of action, not attached to the action itself.
Degreased lug with brake parts cleaner. Two or three layers of masking tape on the bottom of the lug, trimmed with sharp knife. Waxed lug & bottom of the action around lug slot with Johnson's Paste Wax. Two coats, buffed in between.
Dabbed mixed epoxy into the stock lug pocket covering front, back & sides. Set the lug into the recess about 3/4 of the way, leaving it a little bit high. Set the action in place and pulled it down 'snug with the action screws - NOT tightened all the way. Disassembled after 24 hours; had to drill a 1/8 hole from the outside of the stock through the bottom of the lug pocket to tap the lug out with a punch. Came out cleanly with a couple of taps. Removed the tape from the lug bottom.
Result is what you seem to want: Lug fully bedded on the back and sides, stays in the stock when I remove the action. Interference fit with the bedding and easily removed via a push / tap through the hole drilled. Clearance at the bottom of the lug pocket (cuz lug was taped during bedding) allows front action screw to be torqued to 60 in-lbs. Never fired it before bedding (did the full action as well as the recoil lug) but it shoots into .75 in at 100 yds with several handloads & at least one factory ammo. Good for a <$300 rifle.
HTH,
SWHndldr
Ucsdryder
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
- Messages
- 1,571
We'll see how it works! Of course I didn't read the instructions first and it says to dampen the object. We're going to try no dampen!
Andrew Massi
Well-Known Member
The water only seems to speed up the reaction not Increase it.We'll see how it works! Of course I didn't read the instructions first and it says to dampen the object. We're going to try no dampen!
WildRose
Well-Known Member
Anything is removeable as long as you put it in right to start with. Clean the recess out so there's no contact at all, wax the hell out of the recoil lug and underside of the chamber, Use any good Epoxy, even JB quick will work.
Use just enough to fill the recess about a 1/3 with epoxy, set it in gently and torque your lugs to about half what you normally would.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
If you do this they only way to remove it will be to cut the stock apart and grind everything off eventually and start over with a new stock. Not a good plan.
Andrew Massi
Well-Known Member
Why? It's a tikka so the lug is separate from the action. Remove action, heat lug with soldering gun until Epoxy, or in this case gorilla glue, loosens and remove lug. Drexel out epoxy/glue and your gtg.
Do you have the new steel recoil lug on the T3X- or the old one - on the T3 - which was plastic.
OldElkHunter1961
Well-Known Member
There's no shortcuts or "magic material solution" to properly bedding the recoil lug or the full action. A half azzed job will deliver more heart ach than what little time and effort you may have saved up front. Below is a link to an article published by Rifleshooter magazine. Muriad others are out there. Take u'r pick. Good luck.
rifleshooter.com
Rifle bedding: How to bed a match rifle
Bedding a rifle increases accuracy by creating a precise fit between the stock and the action. This precise fit eliminates stress in the action and provides a solid foundation for an accurate rifle…
rifleshooter.com
baldhunter
Well-Known Member
I've done a lot of lug bedding with 5 min epoxy and it works great.Most of the time these days I use the JB Weld Kwik.It's harder to remove,but really either one worked as well as the other for me.Just make sure you use some type of release agent on your metal.
