I have used a lot of devcon when it hardens in the container ( not being mixed with the activator ) just put it in a microwave for a few seconds to heat it up and it will thin out so it can then be mixed . It will cure faster in a cold area also if heated (I have used it at - 10 F in this way) so if you want it to cure at a slower rate let it cool before mixing . If you are wanting to work it say for building up a palm swell once it starts to harden some you can use a piece of plastic as a spatula spray a mist of water on the Devcon and the spatula won't stick to it. JB weld can be done the same way also as you can buy it in smaller amounts the shelf life isn't as important with it if you practice working them you can get a finish on the surface that needs very little work and is very smooth
Epoxy for aluminum pillars?
- Thread starter SavageHunter11
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Rustystud
Well-Known Member
I make all my pillars from 6061 aluminum .500" round stock. One end is cut in a mill with a 1.350" radius fly cutter. The OD is grooved with a .125 parting tool. They are cut to length so as the radius end supports the action (make sure it is aligned with the action) and the opposing end supports the bottom metal. The pillar ID is drilled with a .264" (this gives you some wiggle room for screw alignment (not binding). The pillars and stock are cleaned with acetone. I use West Marine two part epoxy (not the fast drying). I mix in with the epoxy West marine .404 polyester fiber. I then mix in my color pigments to match the color desired. I allow the epoxy to dry for 24-48 hours. I use paste wax as a release agent on every place the epoxy can get on. I have 4." headless screws to use in the bedding process. Use wood clamps or rubber hose to hold the action into the stock. If the screws require further length adjustment on the bottom metal end, I do this in the mill. Remember with Savages after the pillars are epoxied the rear pillar must be machined in half to allow for sear clearance. Clean up any epoxy on top of the pillars. You want metal to metal contact on both ends.
After your action is pillar bedded open up for the recoil lug and free float the barrel in stock barrel channel. After your barrel channel is completely free floated then glass in the recoil lug with the action screwed into bottom metal. If you are using a magazine box between the action and bottom metal, it should not be binding. You should be able to wiggle the mag box with your fingers, (it may require shortening with file or belt sander). If you have done this properly it will improve 95% of rifles made.
Nat Lambeth
After your action is pillar bedded open up for the recoil lug and free float the barrel in stock barrel channel. After your barrel channel is completely free floated then glass in the recoil lug with the action screwed into bottom metal. If you are using a magazine box between the action and bottom metal, it should not be binding. You should be able to wiggle the mag box with your fingers, (it may require shortening with file or belt sander). If you have done this properly it will improve 95% of rifles made.
Nat Lambeth
Shadowwalker
Well-Known Member
Gentlemen, I have actively shot serious competition Benchrest for over 50 years and won a lot......I worked for Ed Shilen in New York when it was a strictly competition oriented business and again in Texas. I tested with Harold Vaughn author of Accuracy Rifle Facts in the tunnel in Albuquerque. Do I dare ask who shoots the smallest groups on the planet? Benchrest shooters. NEXT QUESTION, HOW DO THEY DO THAT??? They do it because they know something you do not.
Then use what they use! and they do not use Devcon.....we did, but not now. MarineTex shrinks the least of any filler out there. Speedy G. did this test years ago.
Back in the 70's to 80's I used an epoxy on a few stocks and they would all shrink.
Making a stress relieved stock full of stress!
I switched to Devcon and problem solved.
To measure stock stress I put a dial indicator clamped to barrel and dial indicator pin on the stock and tightened the stock slowly and if I had over .006 stress then I did a poor job and the real work just started.That happened once.
One of the most relaxing time at the bench was pillar bedding a stock.
I tried Acuraglass once and it did ok but did shrink causing excessive stock stress.
I dremmeled it all out and went back with Devcon.Might have been my fault as I learned later as mine was a little too thin.
A friends dad is a gunsmith and uses Marine Tex on high dollar custom rifles so it does work also.I'm just used to Devcon and will keep using that.
One note about JB Weld,when it cures its the devil to remove so if you make a mistake you may want to live with it.
Just my 2 cents
Old Rooster
Making a stress relieved stock full of stress!
I switched to Devcon and problem solved.
To measure stock stress I put a dial indicator clamped to barrel and dial indicator pin on the stock and tightened the stock slowly and if I had over .006 stress then I did a poor job and the real work just started.That happened once.
One of the most relaxing time at the bench was pillar bedding a stock.
I tried Acuraglass once and it did ok but did shrink causing excessive stock stress.
I dremmeled it all out and went back with Devcon.Might have been my fault as I learned later as mine was a little too thin.
A friends dad is a gunsmith and uses Marine Tex on high dollar custom rifles so it does work also.I'm just used to Devcon and will keep using that.
One note about JB Weld,when it cures its the devil to remove so if you make a mistake you may want to live with it.
Just my 2 cents
Old Rooster
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Back to the original question, what was it again? Oh yeah, what to use to bond in some pillars. Like more than a few have posted I used J-B Weld on the last wood stock. The project is stalled though, so I've not yet shot it.
bushmotornv
Well-Known Member
For my money,Brownells Steel Bed is the best bedding compound to use. I know several people who use JB Weld with great results.
DEVCON & KIWI
I like Hi-Score 2000 products for most of my bedding. I use the silica fume that comes with the kit to thicken JB weld for other bedding needs if necessary. I like JB weld for scope bases, rings, and rails. I've even done epoxy pillars with the Hi-Score that turned out really well but just as an experiment. Stay away from any fast cure products and let the product you use cure for the maximum recommended time before putting the gun to use.
Savage 22-243 AI
Well-Known Member
JB Weld for Pillars............
WoodPecker Hunter
Well-Known Member
Now that's how it's done from the man himself. What an awesome write up Nat.
I use 24 hr JB and a v cut but otherwise pretty much the same.
longrangebob
Well-Known Member
Brownells Acraglas gel with mixed in Aluminum powder, Devcon, & JB Weld are all good choices but would Use stuff that you mix yourself & all should give good results - if using Acraglas would recommend warm metal - heavy rubber bands & let it sit in the Sun 
when curing !!!
when curing !!!I use Devcon liquid aluminum in small tubes.
Then I mix in fiber glass powder to thicken and strengthen it for pillars or bedding actions.
For filling in plastic stock forends, I dont add fiberglass powder... I use "micro balloons ". This is a brown material that looks like powder but its actually tiny plastic hollow balls. This thickens and lightens the epoxy compound to allow a thicker fill of things like plastic forends while minimizing the addition of weight.
I also add paste color to match if any epoxy will be visible.
Adding generous amounts of glass filler to epoxy will reduce shrinkage and make it stronger.
Then I mix in fiber glass powder to thicken and strengthen it for pillars or bedding actions.
For filling in plastic stock forends, I dont add fiberglass powder... I use "micro balloons ". This is a brown material that looks like powder but its actually tiny plastic hollow balls. This thickens and lightens the epoxy compound to allow a thicker fill of things like plastic forends while minimizing the addition of weight.
I also add paste color to match if any epoxy will be visible.
Adding generous amounts of glass filler to epoxy will reduce shrinkage and make it stronger.
