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Difficult Chambering

feelinducky

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
419
I just got my 270WSM back with a new barrel installed. I'm loading up some rounds and they wont chamber. A factory round will chamber with no problem but my reloads need a lot of force then they will not eject they get stuck in the chamber. I'm not sure where to go from here. It came from a match chamber reamer but I'm not supposed to have to turn necks.

Hornady OAL gauge is 2.3560 with a 140g berger at the ogive.
My reloads are 2.2600 with the same bullet at the ogive.

I thought I was jamming the bullet into the lands but they are seated far enough back that should not be an issue.

I took a piece of brass that was just resized and the bolt will close, but with a moderate amount of force. The brass will not pull out of the chamber.

Brass was resized with a standard redding FL sizer die.

What measurements do I need to take? Am I missing something? Any other info you need to help me figure this out?

Thanks
 
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Hornady book says max case length is 2.100 and trip to length is 2.090. Were the necks trimmed?

The die may be setup for the old chamber. If you were just bumping the shoulders with the old chamber, might need to set up the die for the new chamber.
 
You need the official specs. on the reamer used to chamber the rifle.
Is the brass you're reloading factory brass that's been fired in this rifle or brass from another rifle? Are you full length resizing? How much of a bump are you getting on the shoulder when resizing? Are your cases trimmed to proper length? If the case neck gets pushed back at the free bore junction the brass that's trapped between the end of the case neck and the base will compress and the brass has to go somewhere .....
 
This brass is new Norma never fired, full length sized. Trimmed to 2.090. I'll need to check the die for the shoulder. Here are the official specs that I know.
Neck Diameter.3145
freebore .143

Anything else to check?
 
Try a piece of virgin brass that has not been sized with no bullet.
If you dont have one that hasnt been sized, use one of your current cases, draw four lines longways from the extractor groove to the edge of the neck with a marker, let it dry and chamber it until you feel resistance a few times over. Then post a picture.
 
Do your cases have ANY shiny marks ANYWHERE after you have tried to chamber them?
Do ANY of the cases you tried to chamber have rifling marks on the bullet?
Have your cases been inadvertently crimped when the bullet doesn't have a crimp groove?
Have you adjusted your seating die correctly so no crimping is taking place?

All of these answers will help diagnose your problem.

Cheers.
gun)
 
I used a sharpie to black out the case the closed the bolt. When the case came out there was obvious interruption in the mark above the webbing. I spoke with the gunsmith and he suggested a small base sizer die. I ended up ordering one and hopefully it will fix the problem. But I'm also thinking that the chamber should be polished out a little. The Norma Brass measures a consistent .5555 at the base. What do you think?
 
I think if the smith reamed your chambers headspace to the low then that could cause what youre seeing. Which isnt a bad thing. Next time give him a peice of brass or a dummy round you intend to use.

If your smith is nearby you could have him bump it up a few thou or just use the small base die as he suggessted.
 
I'm hoping the small base die will do it. I did send 2 pieces of brass with the rifle. This will be a hunting rifle so I hope that it is not going to see any problems with it in the field. Someone has said to have the chamber polished. How do they do that?
 
I'm hoping the small base die will do it. I did send 2 pieces of brass with the rifle. This will be a hunting rifle so I hope that it is not going to see any problems with it in the field. Someone has said to have the chamber polished. How do they do that?

Chamber polishing can be done with a compound applied with a chamber cleaning mop. But, IMO, what you're dealing with isn't going to be corrected with polishing. Unless you want to polish for a very long time using a range of polishing compounds with a wide variety grits.
 
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