Critique this idea

[Josh06]

Problem - new scope (vortex lht) acquired to use on NRL Hunter rig only has 27.75 moa of travel after setting zero stop. Longest shots are usually around 1000 yards which requires 30moa with my zero set at 100. My idea is to set zero at 250 which gets me plenty of travel to get to 1000. Zero setting method would be shooting at 100 to reduce wind and other atmospheric effects then dial scope to 250 and reset zero. I'd then double check at 250 to confirm zero is good and practice at various ranges to confirm data still works. Does anyone see issues with this method or problems I may encounter that I'm not thinking about. My other option is just run a 100 yard zero and use combo of dialing and holding to get to 1000 but I don't trust myself to do that successfully on the clock.

 

[98cwitr]

Nope, sounds like a plan. Literally what I've done on my Leuy Mark 4, as it's already bottomed out and 2 MILs high at 100 yards. I'd rather do a hold under at 100 than hold over at a 1000.

 

[FEENIX]

Problem - new scope (vortex lht) acquired to use on NRL Hunter rig only has 27.75 moa of travel after setting zero stop. Longest shots are usually around 1000 yards which requires 30moa with my zero set at 100. My idea is to set zero at 250 which gets me plenty of travel to get to 1000. Zero setting method would be shooting at 100 to reduce wind and other atmospheric effects then dial scope to 250 and reset zero. I'd then double check at 250 to confirm zero is good and practice at various ranges to confirm data still works. Does anyone see issues with this method or problems I may encounter that I'm not thinking about. My other option is just run a 100 yard zero and use combo of dialing and holding to get to 1000 but I don't trust myself to do that successfully on the clock.

I am not sure what you are shooting or your scopes actual total elevation, but if you run your numbers and the you have enough elevation to your max range, then you can make it work.

 

[WA Coyote]

Am I missing something here? This makes zero sense to me….

Are you zeroed at 100 and have 27.75 MOA remaining on the erector after setting the zero stop?

If ya got 27.75 remaining after setting your zero…. then that's all you'll ever have to work with. You're gonna need to go to a canted (20 MOA) base, or use the reticle to add a couple mil after you max out your elevation.

 

[Josh06]

Am I missing something here? This makes zero sense to me….

Are you zeroed at 100 and have 27.75 MOA remaining on the erector after setting the zero stop?

If ya got 27.75 remaining after setting your zero…. then that's all you'll ever have to work with. You're gonna need to go to a canted (20 MOA) base, or use the reticle to add a couple mil after you max out your elevation.

Yes, 27.75 is the max that I'll ever have to work with from my zero and I already have a 20 moa rail. When my zero is set at 250, I need to dial 27 to be on at 1000. When my zero is set at 100, I need 29.71 to be on at 1000.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

I personally would look for a 30 MOA pic rail. This would give you a fudge factor for zeroing with different loads, if/when bigger better slower bullets come out...

 

[Josh06]

I personally would look for a 30 MOA pic rail. This would give you a fudge factor for zeroing with different loads, if/when bigger better slower bullets come out...

Genuine question, what scenario would this help. I've got plenty of travel on both ends of the 27.75 that the zero stop limits me to when installed. The scope has 75 total MOA of elevation travel, the zero stop just limits that to 27.75 when installed.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

You said you run out of travel to get to 1000.

So in theory, adding a 30 MOA rail (assuming you currently have a 20) would allow you to have 37.75 MOA of travel.
You are using more on the bottom end to get it zeroed.

I just re-read and thought about this. Without the zero stop installed, you can adjust to 1000, but with it, you cannot??? That doesn't sound right. Are you sure you aren't running out of elevation travel? The zero-stop limits it to 27.75 regardless of how much travel you have remaining?

 

[Josh06]

You said you run out of travel to get to 1000.

So in theory, adding a 30 MOA rail (assuming you currently have a 20) would allow you to have 37.75 MOA of travel.
You are using more on the bottom end to get it zeroed.

I just re-read and thought about this. Without the zero stop installed, you can adjust to 1000, but with it, you cannot??? That doesn't sound right. Are you sure you aren't running out of elevation travel? The zero-stop limits it to 27.75 regardless of how much travel you have remaining?

100% not running out of total travel, it's just limited by the zero stop. The scope has 15 moa per revolution and with zero stop installed you only get a little less than 2 revolutions. 1.25 below zero and 27.75 above zero. Yes, limited to 27.75 no matter how much actual total travel is remaining.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

Prolly because it is getting close to the edge of where the actual adjustments equal the measured distance.
Really a Rev Limiter and zero stop.

When it is at mechanical zero it has 15 MOA/rev, or now that you have it zeroed?

 

[arrow179]

Sounds like time to swap scopes again!

 

[FEENIX]

Am I missing something here? This makes zero sense to me….

Are you zeroed at 100 and have 27.75 MOA remaining on the erector after setting the zero stop?

If ya got 27.75 remaining after setting your zero…. then that's all you'll ever have to work with. You're gonna need to go to a canted (20 MOA) base, or use the reticle to add a couple mil after you max out your elevation.

I learned this early on from an optics SME.

 

[WA Coyote]

Ok… gotcha.

You're running out of travel due to a stupid Zero Stop design… not because that's where the zero is in the total available travel.

I'd either get a different optic, or a flatter shooting round.

 

[oneshot.onehit]

Josh

If your particular scope has the rev stop ring, then you are correct in some of your statements. The scope has a good travel range but when using a zero stop feature in which I really like (zero stops), I've seen many of folks get frustrated and miss steel targets because they miss counted and got a rev off. So yes I like being able to crank it down and know where my zero is when cranking many revolutions back and forth. The rev stop ring works great for folks shooting normal stuff, but when you want to push things to distance the limited travel that the rev stop ring allows can work against you.

Your options
Do your longer zero and get the 1000 yard in your top end.

Adding extra cant as mentioned by causing your mechanical 100 yard zero to get into the lower rev cycle thus causing your zero to be in the first rev - so if you had the ring out and tried backing your scope down past your zero point it will not make an additional revolution of travel to your reference point on the scope this will tell you you're on the right rev.

Also I'm not sure what reticle you have, but can you dial your max elevation and then use the holdover hash marks to reach 1000. The hash marks are as accurate as dialing, we have to use both together when pushing the limits.

Just a little info and suggestions

Osoh
JH