Copper removal from used gun
- Thread starter Just a hunter
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mdmiller
Well-Known Member
Do what Rosebud said, shoot it, some copper is good!
Ga6570
Well-Known Member
From the description you make it sound very much like a new rifle - and considering you said no scope has been mounted, I can't see how what you think is copper on the rifling is actually copper. I just hope you are not chaising a ghost. I'd follow the advice above and install a scope and go shoot it. Then see what you have.
rustyshackleford
Well-Known Member
Get boretech eliminator, boretech nylon brush, and one of their jags. With the other harsh cleaner here you CAN ruin your barrel. With boretech you cannot and I have used both Boretech and Barnes ammonia based cleaner. Very little difference in effectiveness.
Run 2-3 wet patches and run the brush 4-5 times also with solvent. After than run a wet patch or two every 15 min for an hour. After than run dry patches and with the amount present I'd expect it all to be gone. You CANNOT damage your bore with boretech.
All that said I'd shoot it first but I'd get the boretech stuff for when the accuracy falls off due to EXCESSIVE copper fouling. Being a new barrel it could be 5 rounds but if it's got a good surface finish it may be 500. Let the target tell the tale.
Run 2-3 wet patches and run the brush 4-5 times also with solvent. After than run a wet patch or two every 15 min for an hour. After than run dry patches and with the amount present I'd expect it all to be gone. You CANNOT damage your bore with boretech.
All that said I'd shoot it first but I'd get the boretech stuff for when the accuracy falls off due to EXCESSIVE copper fouling. Being a new barrel it could be 5 rounds but if it's got a good surface finish it may be 500. Let the target tell the tale.
RuninL8
Well-Known Member
Just FYI, Kroil, can remove bluing as well as vinegar. The name brands mentioned are all good, 10x the money but good. When it comes to real cleaning, ammonia (I use sweets) for copper and CLR (calcium lime rust remover) best carbon cleaner you'll ever use and at $7.00, you can't go wrong. Now, you have to clean correctly, and clean up up after these products but there are plenty of places that tell you how to do that.
For applications like this, a couple passes of JB usually works for me. However, I find that the extra cleaning with JB doesn't do anything for the accuracy of the gun. I only care about getting it spotless when I put a gun in long term storage.
xsn10s
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I used to clean barrels zealously, not so much now as I live in a dry climate and keep everything well oiled. The only time I try to get all copper out of a bore is if I'm shooting mono's or AccuBonds. Other than that a decent cleaning while breaking in and then just regular cleaning and oil. YMMV.
Jim’s Hunt
Well-Known Member
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any good high ammonia bore cleaner lots of wet patches then some either IOSSO or JB 's compound oversized nylon brush and lots of strolls with the brush more wet patches then dry bore take a flashlight and look in muzzle. I disagree with the bronze brushes as the chemical will dissolve them as well. Oh and repeat if copper is still present. My 2 pennies
xsn10s
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I found Gunslick foam worked the best on copper, but it's discontinued. Maybe another foam brand will work well. With JB's I preferred using a jag with a good fitting patch. And a good quality new bronze brush can work well without copper solvent. At least to scratch the surface to allow the copper solvents to work after scrubbing.
I use Barnes CR-10 and it has always got the copper out and does turn patches blue although the odor isn't pleasant. I do as others have suggested and shoot it and see how it does. If it's a shooter then you may just want to leave it alone.
Doesn't Brake Clean have chlorine in it? Bad to leave in barrel? Carb Clean is ok no chlorine...
esshup
Well-Known Member
Another vote for wipe out and the accelerator and you definitely will be chasing your tail if you use a bronze brush or bronze jag. They will leave blue on the patch and you will think it is the barrel.
If you want to test to see what actually works and what doesn't, get a piece of copper pipe and take some of the solvent, put it on a patch and see how fast it transfers the copper from the pipe to the patch. Or use a penny, they are copper clad.
If you want to test to see what actually works and what doesn't, get a piece of copper pipe and take some of the solvent, put it on a patch and see how fast it transfers the copper from the pipe to the patch. Or use a penny, they are copper clad.
