Christensen has me scratching my head

[Remington92]

Ok, if I am understanding you correctly the two groups with two in the same hole with one flyer are 88.0 and 88.8 retumbo and 215 Bergers at the same seating depth? If that is correct that looks like a small but successful OCW. The groups impact the target at the same poi. now you need to do seating depth testing in .010 increments. You did not say where you started but I would do at the lands .010, .020, .030, .040 off. at 88.4 retumbo and report back. I suspect you will have a .5moa load.

This may not be relevant with the scope moving deal but just to clarify all 4 of the groups were 2 in one hole with a flyer?

And I'm seating at mag length

 

[Remington92]

Lightweight heavy recoiling rifles with heavy scopes are hell on scope attachments. It is even worse with a brake. High quality rails and rings are the only way to go. In my opinion Talley and Leopold are junk unless you have a mild recoiling rifle with a lightweight scope. I have learned the hard way.

How does the brake make it harder on rings? This rifle really doesn't kick at all. Are steel rings my only option?

 

[FURMAN]

This may not be relevant with the scope moving deal but just to clarify all 4 of the groups were 2 in one hole with a flyer?

And I'm seating at mag length

I would still focus on the 88.4 retumbo with 215s. You see how the 88 and 88.8 retumbo hit near the same point that is indication of a stable load. Typically when you have two in one hole and one out of the group it is seating depth. If you had gone ahead and shot five most likely you would see two distinct groups. Obviously you'll have to fix the scope issue first.

 

[FURMAN]

How does the brake make it harder on rings? This rifle really doesn't kick at all. Are steel rings my only option?

I do not have a solid answer for you but can tell you I never had any issues until I started using brakes and have have nothing but since. Talley rails are junk. Talley and leopold rings are junk. A nice Murphy precision or steal nightforce is the only way I will go from now on. Again those cheaper options may work on heavier rifles and or lighter scopes but not heavy scopes on light rifles. My hunts are too valuable to be taking chances with gear that does not work.

 

[RockyMtnMT]

If the scope was moving you may very well have a very good thing going.

I wanted you to go longer range to see if the fleet continued the same. I personally shoot better at longer range than at shorter ranges.

The brake puts a double recoil on the scope. The initial ignition pushes the rifle back and as the gases hit the brake it causes the rifle to move in the opposite direction. This makes it much easier on us but much tougher on optics.

Steve

 

[cohunt]

I have a remington mountain 30-06 that just had the same issue last range trip...its frustrating

 

[Remington92]

What's my options for solid rings on the lighter side that don't have big snagging bolts on them?

 

[brentc]

What's my options for solid rings on the lighter side that don't have big snagging bolts on them?

Seekins! Get them at Lanbos Armory for the best price. Also, make sure your base screws are thread locked and torqued. I prefer blue loctite and 30 in/lbs of torque with my base screws.

https://lanbosarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=112&products_id=37742
Add them to the cart to see the price.

 

[Remington92]

I have a remington mountain 30-06 that just had the same issue last range trip...its frustrating

Did you find out what was causing it?

 

[cohunt]

Did you find out what was causing it?

Yea, the scope is slipping in the rings due to recoil--- checked my ring screw torque and it was good, tightened it up 10 more inch pounds and it still slipped--- don't want to damage the scope so I'm going to buy different rings

 

[brentc]

Yea, the scope is slipping in the rings due to recoil--- checked my ring screw torque and it was good, tightened it up 10 more inch pounds and it still slipped--- don't want to damage the scope so I'm going to buy different rings

A set of quality rings is a good start. A little powdered rosin in the rings will help to keep it from slipping too.

 

[cohunt]

A set of quality rings is a good start. A little powdered rosin in the rings will help to keep it from slipping too.

Trust me, I know where the problem lies--
"Good quality rings" I thought I had-- I realized they are not though. No harm no foul, I just learned another lesson that's all--- was going to take it elk hunting this year, but wont chance a hunt on slipping rings so I'm taking my 7rm instead.

My gun really isnt all that light, but it does have considerable muzzle flip due to the pencil profile mountain barrel.

 

[Remington92]

Looks like I'll be shooting my old 7mag this year. Took the scope in and had it remounted, loctited and torqued down. Also bought a box of trophy grade 180gr accubond which is I guess what Christensen uses for their accuracy guarantee.

Cleaned the rifle and and shot half the box, results were bout 2.5" at 100yds. So the gun store is shipping it back to Christensen to be worked on.

 

[brentc]

Looks like I'll be shooting my old 7mag this year. Took the scope in and had it remounted, loctited and torqued down. Also bought a box of trophy grade 180gr accubond which is I guess what Christensen uses for their accuracy guarantee.

Cleaned the rifle and and shot half the box, results were bout 2.5" at 100yds. So the gun store is shipping it back to Christensen to be worked on.

I expect that they will tell you nothing is wrong with it. You were likely within a few thousandths of seating depth from having that rifle drive tacks. Also, many times after cleaning it takes 8-10 rounds for the bore to settle depending on how thorough you were. Maybe there is something I'm not seeing, but i don't see anything ot of the ordinary. Your rifle appears to be fine.