RUFFIAN R - NY
Well-Known Member
agree with most posted above just watch angle you cutting- if doing flat base may want to bell mouth the case just a little.
Chamfering
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cmysix
Well-Known Member
21st century expander mandrels 2-3 thou under bullet diameter, nice and round and neck tension set
Yeah, figured that one out with Lapua.
Put a HEAVY chamfer on the inside of the case neck, NOT a deburr. HEAVY enough to where the chamfer almost goes to the outside of the case which would be better than just a slight de burr.
If you use Black Graphite on the inside of your case necks, you will see an improvement in bullet seating pressure and smaller groups. There are several ways to do this black graphite on the inside of the case necks, simple, cheap, and easy.
If you use Black Graphite on the inside of your case necks, you will see an improvement in bullet seating pressure and smaller groups. There are several ways to do this black graphite on the inside of the case necks, simple, cheap, and easy.
I have imperial dry neck lube does that also work?
RegionRat
Well-Known Member
Yes.
You can dust them with dry lube like graphite in the Imperial Kit that uses the little spheres to help apply the graphite powder, or you can use an alcohol graphite solution like Neolube #2 for example. Lots of ways to do this and they can all give good results in terms of controlling the friction and preventing galling in the neck. Oh, and some folks also like MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide) instead of graphite, and I am sure there are others who prefer WS2 (tugnsten disulfide) However...
Neck tension, detail prep, neck friction, annealing, etc., etc., are all things that need to be coordinated in your tuning process.
It is possible to take a good tune and ruin it, by introducing a change like these after the fact and make the mistake of blaming the change instead of the load development process.
When you detail prep a case, you have to include all those details in the load tuning. Neck prep details can be significant in both good and bad ways. YMMV
You can dust them with dry lube like graphite in the Imperial Kit that uses the little spheres to help apply the graphite powder, or you can use an alcohol graphite solution like Neolube #2 for example. Lots of ways to do this and they can all give good results in terms of controlling the friction and preventing galling in the neck. Oh, and some folks also like MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide) instead of graphite, and I am sure there are others who prefer WS2 (tugnsten disulfide) However...
Neck tension, detail prep, neck friction, annealing, etc., etc., are all things that need to be coordinated in your tuning process.
It is possible to take a good tune and ruin it, by introducing a change like these after the fact and make the mistake of blaming the change instead of the load development process.
When you detail prep a case, you have to include all those details in the load tuning. Neck prep details can be significant in both good and bad ways. YMMV
cmysix
Well-Known Member
Imperial is really for resizing the case neck on the outside, but you can apply it to the inside with a q-tip, but powder might stick to the q-tip, the graphite is cheap and easy you have a little jar of small steel balls and you have a small jar of graphite, you put a little in the steel balls and then stab the case neck in and spin a little, inside and outside done, now mind you. this is 1 of 100 ways to do things. you need to experiment and figure out what YOU find what works for YOU.
cmysix
Well-Known Member
some people lube the base of the bullet before seating, I am new to reloading metallic also, the best advice I got recently is, get a recipe out of a book for the components you have and load that recipe and get comfortable doing the basics well, and then start, seating depth and charge weights and such. but get good at the basics first! factory ammo shoots pretty good, so a factory recipe should work until we get to the lofty heights with the others.
I've gotten good at the basics then started seeing all the little fine details in it.
vancewalker007
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- Mar 30, 2013
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Every case prep session I do the inside and outside as part of the process.
Heather, if you are reloading for hunting ammo, a lot of these very fine details are a waste of your time, and will be helpful only if you are shooting in competition. Keep it simple but precise and have fun shooting what you've loaded.
Thanks, I've been starting to get people that shoot for competition ask me to make their loads so it's important for me to learn, plus I hope to competition shoot as well with my Sendero 7mm STW that i plan on getting. I've got a boone and crockett edition chambered in the 7mm stw waiting for me right now.
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I hate to say this, but you just opened another can of worms (reloading for other people) that has been discussed in depth on this forum. Like everything, there is a wide range of opinions regarding the wisdom and risk of doing this, mainly because of the legal system we live in.
For me, the answer is that I will reload only for very close friends and relatives, and not for pay. I'll let them buy the components and then work up loads for them, but that's it.
Now, let's not hijack her thread folks. She asked a simple question.
